SteveL

Mate....they have the same part number and as I said, I have one on my GTR....plugged straight in. KILL HSV: If you find differently (and you won't) e-mail me your address and I'll send you my spare free of charge, which has been tested good.

No worries...I have one on my GTR.

Dead again for me.....

yes it is.

Not possible. SR20 gearbox is more-or-less the same physical size as an RB20DET gearbox, which is most likely what your mate has bought (ie RB20DET gearbox with SR20DET bell housing).

RB30 is the same.

Looks stock standard to me.

Just to make a liar out of me, it's now working again......

It happened after the upgrade was done, then was 'sort of' fixed but only worked intermittently. For the last week or so it's gone back to not working at all. Doesn't look like it's going to get fixed in a hurry......

You are correct. RB25DE gearbox is the same size and strength as RB20DET type.

AFAIC if a gasket was originally used between the mating surfaces, it should be replaced with a gasket (if needed - rocker cover gaskets on RB engines are generally re-usable, but can go hard with age). I'm thinking particularly of paper gaskets. An exception might be if the mating surfaces are damaged, in which case I'd still use a new gasket but give it a bit of 'help' with a quality sealer (eg Hylomar). Where a sealer was originally used (eg RB sump) I'd use a sealer (eg 3-Bond). I'd never replace a gasket entirely with sealer except as a last resort (eg gasket NLA).

No. Usually the noise gets worse with age as the bearing grease dries out and loses effectiveness. In one extreme case I saw, the bearing had seized, but the car had a LOT of k's on it and was pretty much junkyard material by that stage anyway (not a Nissan, btw). In 99.9% of cases the clutch will need replacing before any problems will occur from a noisy thow-out bearing - apart from the noise, that is. That said, and like every other 'I've got a funny noise' type thread ever started, each of us that has responded here has not actually heard the noise for ourselves, so to that extent we are 'guessing'. If you still have concerns you should get someone with appropriate experience to have a listen and follow their advice. Of course ours is free, theirs probably won't be.....

From this is description it's most likely the clutch throw-out bearing and nothing to worry about.

To be accurate about the PN you really need to post up the VIN of your car.

I've had an 87 Silh for years. Temp gauge has always sat about 1/2 way on the gauge, going a little higher in high temps using the aircon. Temp rising in the way you describe is not normal. Check and cleaning cooling system, particularly radiator. Check thermostat and another possibility is water pump on its last legs.

Most definately not normal. Either your radiator cap is not holding pressure (ie releasing pressure too early), or you have a cylinder (or cylinders) leaking compression pressure into the cooling system causing the cooling system pressure to exceed the rad cap rating. IOW a blown head gasket. The fact that you say the coolant is 'blown out' and there is bubbling suggests this is likely. Have your cooling system pressure tested (free at most radiator repairers).

Can't see how the starter is related to the tacho problem. Tacho takes it's signal from the negative terminal on the coil, plus there's a dropping resistor in the 'feed' to the tacho which is plugged into the loom nearby. Check terminals on the coil and anything plugged in nearby for corrosion or just simply loose. Another possibility is the dash assembly itself....loose connections, etc, but that's a bit more work.

Imports came with R200; Oz spec have Bog Warner. Anyway, I have a complete R31 diff with axles sitting up the side of my garage, plus another still in a car. If you want to come and get them their yours for free.

Big wing + roll cage etc = drift warrior or part time cct racer. Weld repair could also be for cracking of the shock support from very stiff suspension + long term use. Edit: $17.5K + compliance + ORC = probably $20K in reality, of not more. Not far off what cars are going for here.

I'm a long time motorcyclist...nothing comes close the exhileration of riding and racing a motorcycle, AFAIC (spare me the safety arguments, I'm not interested).

Motorcycle racing on now. The original short Calder cct (I don't care what anyone says, calder was and always will be a crap race track). Wayne Gardner's racing, so early to mid 80's. Some excellent Oz bike racers from that period - AJ, Robbie Phillis, Trinder. Edit: should have recognised it.....1984 Swann series. First round was at Calder, now showing second round from Oran park. If memory serves one round is from the old Surfers cct.

To me it screams 'hard life' and 'prepared to cut corners with repairs'. Unless the rest of the car is excellent and/or it is real cheap (and I do mean _real_ cheap) I'd continue looking.

Usually a button like that is to allow safe release of cooling system pressure, esp when hot. In terms of the loss of coolant, there has to be a leak somewhere for that to occur and the overflow tank is doing it's job of replacing the loss from the main system. It's a case of checking all hose joints, welch plugs, etc for weeping/leaks. I had an R31 that had a similar problem which frustated the hell out of me for over year......I only found the leak (read: slow drip) at a hose joint with the car up on the hoist and the system pressurised, but it took a lot of finding.

Weld repair to the factory strut support seam....and a pretty dodgy one at that. Seems to be some corrosion as well and what appears to be some further separation of the seam at the lower left in the photograph. Might suggest the car has taken a hit in the front right corner which his 'popped' the seam, and this is the repair. Personally I'd avoid the car just on the basis of the 'quality' of the weld repair.

Mine is engraved and the car is definately not dodgy.