SteveL

Stock AIT sensor for RB26 is in the intake plenum at the front near the inlet. Not uncommon for air temp in the plenum to rise whilst stuck in traffic due to heat 'soak'.

Motec operates direct from the stock RB CAS - don't think you can get much simpler than that, and personally I would call having to change the CAS optical disc for a 'special' one a 'distributor modification' of sorts..... I've seen a few Autronics advertised on these forums alone. I think your letting your obvious love of Autronic equipment 'blind' you somewhat..... I use Motec because it is widely recognised as being one of the best - if not _the_ best - aftermarket engine management system available. They're reliable and they work with 99.9% of engines out of the box. OTOH I know a few people with race cars that have had problems with Autronic mainly with issues of getting sensors, etc to work, much like you've admitted to above. That is why I rate Autronic below Motec, but not by much. I accept that you will see things differently and there's no point getting into an argument over it. I also agree that Motec is 'expensive'.....but as they say, nothing good is cheap. I've also had no real problem getting support from them, but admitedly I know them reasonably well and they are literally just down the road from me (as are Autronic, and Wolf )

Well if that's what it is and you know what your doing........I did say 'could'.

The RB25 yoke slides part way into the dust shield. You could machine the yoke as you say, with balance being the only thing likely to be affected (but probably not significantly). A cheaper and quicker options would be to simply remove the dust shield, it's only a press fit to the back of the gearbox. You could then shorten the dust shield to suit. Leaving the dust shield off will expose the seal, but an occasional clean of the area will overcome any likely problems.

I checked in FAST and it seems that it is. FYI a new one from Nissan is about $700.

Judging by what is clearly some sort of spring which is part of the internals of the diff centre, that's not Nissan centre or the 'usual' type of clutch pack LSD. Probably some sort of aftermarket LSD and in that case doing any sort of work on it could be 'difficult'.

I should add that my car also has a curved rubber 'defelector' attached to each of the tension (castor) rods, which directs air from the ducts onto the back face of the brake disc through a hole in the backing plate. These also appear to be a standard JDM R32 GTR part. I doubt that it's particularly effective, but better than nothing.

I think people are confused by the fact that a lot of drive shaft joints on cars with Nissan independent suspension look very similar. Strictly speaking a CV (Constant Velocity) joint is used where the joint has to cope with both suspension and major steering movements - FWD cars in the main, GTR's have CV's in the outer joint of the front drivesshafts. The inner joint on GTR's and the joints on the rear shafts are known as 'Double Offset Joints' (DOJ) and are really only designed to take suspension movement. Someone will jump in at this point and say 'but what about HICAS, which steers the rear wheels'. Well the steering movement on the rear wheels is only a few degrees max in either direction, and a DOJ is able to cope with that.

My 89 has them. Looking at FAST suggests they are standard part for JDM spec R32 GTR's

R33 GTSt is rear wheel drive and doesn't have CV's, front or rear. Could be a wheel bearing, but could also be something simple associated with the brakes (for example). Best get it checked.

There are pluses and minuses in each direction - PFC is plug and play but is engine specific; Autronic will run virtually any engine (theoretically), but a bit more work involved. So it's not just a question what you have planned now, but also what you want to do going into the future. For example, if your keeping the car for some time then PFC is probably enough, but if you plan to move on to other cars/makes/models the Autronic has the flexibility to go with you.

No it won't, totally different design. Not sure about RB25->RB26, but I suspect not.

Yes, and I think I'd caution against judging GTR reliability just based on what's written on a forum like this. As SK said your more likely to hear about the broken one's than the 'happy people'. Also from my reading, the 'broken ones' are more often than not highly modified and I'm afraid breakages are just a fact of life if your pushing the boundaries. It seems that the 'GTR' badge gives some people somewhat unrealistic expectations in terms of mods and longevity.

UAS have an upgraded pivot for $55 (scroll down): http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/priceli...ylineclutch.htm

Well I don't necessarily agree that this is part of the 'normal' life of a GTR and I certainly didn't have that in mind when I bought mine. I'm not particularly interested in drags anyway, and I have another car for circuit work. I'll probably take the GTR to the track (circuit) at some point, but not without the appropriate mods. LOL - those that know me know that I don't give cars or motorcycles an easy time......

Yes....and it's an '89 (shock, horror). Define: 'like it should be'

Check here as a starting point: http://www.autronic.com/page_files/dealer_....htm#queensland These are Autronic dealers but can probably point you in the right direction.

Factory exhaust manifold is cast iron which needs special handling for welding otherwise it _will_ crack. Find a welder in your area that specialises in cast iron welding/repairs (yellow pages).

IMHO autronic are second only to Motec, but it's close. The guy that owns/runs autronic (Richard Aubert was his name I think) was originally one of the founders of Motec. The quality is definately there and their ECU's are also a bit cheaper than Motec. The main issues with Autronic in the past have been: - after sales support was not great - some have reported problems with connections to some types of engine sensors (eg CAS - not RB tho) I suspect with greater web based support in recent times these sorts of problem have been largely overcome.

Yes, power steering.

Aside from the chassis damage, if the harmonic balancer has been impacted it's possible there's internal damage to crank thrust bearings, etc

For the first query, suggest you get in touch with Civil Compliance on 9200 8222 to find out the exact procedure. There'll probably be an administrative fee (as always....) but I'm sure they'll appreciate you saving the court's time As to the second....they don't send out reminders AFAIC. You either pay it within the given time or they assume your going to contest.

....and we all know what the definition of an expert is..... gimpyr33 - rest assured that there are many, many reputable, championship winning engine builders/racers that 'waste their time' incorporating appropriate sump baffle systems [and, yes, I know Ben]. It is cheap insurance and, frankly, it is also chicken-feed compared to the mega-bucks being spent on engine 're-builds', etc by some on these forums (and others it must said). Personally I'd never take a car with a stock factory sump to a track other than to tour around, and I wouldn't recommend anyone else do otherwise. Adding an 'extra litre' is a band aid, at best.

The clues are in the LH photo. The question is whether the debris/parts were found 'as shown' (ie with bolts separated as shown), and if that is the case, how is it that one bolt appears remarkably undamaged given the extensive damage to the conrod ??.

I have an ARC airbox in my R32 GTR. There's no reason it wouldn't work if you had suitable adaptors made up to replace the AFM's.