SteveL

RB30 is single chamber pump so can't be used with R32 unless HICAS is going to be stripped/blocked off. I believe people have used the RB30 pump when fitting RB20 into R31, for example, but requires some mods to the mounting bracket. HICAS on R33 is electric, so perhaps RB30 pump could be used with RB25DET but mods to pump bracket probably still apply.

After these from R32 GTR: - front ash tray (next to ciggy lighter.....GTSt same I think) - pair of ex manifold heat shields.....no cracks - set of throttle bodies with actuators (matched set from same engine) Shields and TB's are same in R34 I think, I'll check.

I assume this is ex manifolds ??

Loom and Intake sold Price drop on ECU.

I know what quick lambda is - I've been using Motec for years. I'm not particularly interested in what someone did with a race car on a race track, it's a totally different thing to tuning a road car essentially from scratch on the road. Even Motec themselves recommend tuning the vehicle on a dyno and then fine tuning on the road.

Not quite following you here.....you'll still need someone to tune the M600.

Well assuming the oil temp sensor is in the sump or the original oil filter boss at the block (like GTR) and so is reading temp correctly then your symptoms do suggest some sort of internal issue, possibly rings or piston related. Hot oil might suggest massive blow-by with consequent oil temp increases, but I'd expect to see more exhaust smoke than what you seem to be getting, plus a very rough engine. If the exhaust smoke is black, then that's a rich mixture, blue/white is oil. It's really difficult to diagnose these types of issue on the net, and it sounds like your not sure about things mechanical. Probably best to find some local SAU members that can suggest a reliable mechanic.

I tend to agree that your mechanic sounds like a loser, and perhaps time for another. Where is your oil temp sensor mounted ?? Do you have any smoke out the exhaust ?? Has this problem only happened 'suddenly' ?? I'm a bit concerned at the discolouration of some of your water hoses....

Just to clarify this is a genuine R32 GTR water pump and $250 is definately a good price. Good luck with the sale.

It's not. R31 Pintara uses a twin spider gear centre, but R31 Skyline has 4. Pintara also has 25 spline axles to the Skyline's 28. But for an RB25DE the Pintara diff/axles will be plenty strong enough. An RB25DET would be another matter.

The plastic part is not sold separately.....the window winder is an assembly (less motor).

Well there's always a chance it was mistyped. Anyway the PN for the mold is the same as given above.

Can you check that number ?? BNR32 010253 is a 1990 model and BNR32 102530 isn't a valid VIN.

Yes, I'd actually be surprised if there was any difference, but with Nissan you never know and it's best to check with tha actual VIN. I should also say that the above PN includes the clips needed to attach the mold, plus the 2 glass 'stabilisers' which are like a guide for the glass. They're also the parts that wear and eventually cause the scratches you commonly see on R32 door glass. The 2 'guides' are available separately and are just under $50 each, trade........

80820-04U03, Mold Assy, Outside, RH 8905-9104 That's using my VIN which is an 89 model car. If you have a VIN that might be better in terms of later model year R32.

Normal. In effect your disabling the PCV system which is 'linked' to manifold vaccum and therefore affects idle.

I have Motec M48Pro with all the fruit (wide band control, data logging, etc) and as already said Motec is probably the best of the aftermarket ECU's, with Autronic running a close second, IMHO. Mine is not used on a GTR tho. Motec is not cheap, although I haven't checked their prices for a few years. One of the reasons Motec isn't cheap is that they charge for things the others include in the price. For example the price they give for the Motec model you buy is just that.....the price for the ECU. If you want a loom that's extra $$, sensors same. Then if you want wide band control you have to pay extra for that, etc, etc (all Motec ECU's have the full range of capabilities/options built-in, but to access them you have to pay the Motec fee and then they turn the option on by entering a code. It can end up adding up to many $$$, but there's no doubt about the quality. Depending on what your planning to do, you might be better to look at a PFC, which is essentially plug-in and go, but if you need a Motec there's no doubt it'll do the job.

No it's not mainly for warming up, sorry if I gave you that impression. I would definately recommend having some sort of trans cooler, even if your car is stock. It's likely the trans wouldn't suffer in the short term, but the risk increases over time.

R31 Pintara is the one (87-90), not the later U12 type. As to how much work is required to make things fit I can't say, but the diff model is the same in VL Commodore and R31 Pintara/Skyline (ie BW model 78). Someone else here might, but I'm sure it will have been discussed on the Commodore forums.

3.45 is quite tall for an RB25DE. 4.1 or 4.4 is the diff ratio for that engine (4.4 for the auto ??). Anyway 4.1 diff from a Pintara is probably the way to go, and that will give you discs as well, but mounts might be slightly different and I'm not sure about track. Your speedo will be out, but it might be possible to change the speedo drive at the trans for the Pintara type. The car will be quicker off the line, but rev harder at any given speed.

I suspect your thinking of the air reg (bolted under the manifold up close to the head ??) and that checks out fine.....closes up completely with time/temp. femno: nothing's been touched with the plate screws and I had the TB's off when I replaced all the gaskets. I'm confident there's no problem in that area. I've also checked the throttle actuator adjustment and no problems there as well.

Not sure about the heater element thing, haven't seen anything like that on mine, just the IACV attached to the sub-plenum. I've disassembled the IACV completely and cleaned it, including removing the epoxy seal on the brass spring screw, etc. It's as clean as when it was new. I've also checked the solenoid using multimeter, etc and it's fine, plus I've tested it using the DataScan software connected via the diagnostic connector under the dash (ie played around with the idle by manually controlling the IACV). My problem is that the idle is still slightly high (1050rpm) and there's no adjustment left on the IACV manual adjust screw to take it lower. Ignition timing is spot on. I've gone to extent of replacing all the hoses (and I do mean ALL) under the manifold, plus all the manifold gaskets and o-rings on the balance tube. Also it's not the air reg as I've tested it and it works fine plus it looks brand new. I've also checked things like the BOV vac connection; brake/clutch master vac connections; MAP sensor hoses; PCV etc, etc. At the end, with alll I've done, I'm left with the possibility that the IACV is simply worn out and not sealing correctly internally - but to me it looked fine when I took it apart. I'm hesitant to by a s/hand one, but as I said, I'm running out of options.

Sounds like they want to make more $$ out of you for custom work. AFAIC the 'drag' will be more or less the same, but lift rates will change placing extra load on the springs. Don't understand why you would bother adding extra to the bottom of the buckets when increasing shim thickness has the same effect. For an R32 GTR, valve stem diameter is 6mm for inlet and 7mm for ex., but there is a small tolerance, off course. I have some spare shims so will check diam for you.

Well I have thought about doing that, and I actually have an RB25DE IACV from a late Stagea which I could use, but I was sort of hoping to get an R34 one (long shot, for sure). Having successfully adapted an RB30 IACV to a VG30DET manifold, it's something I know I could do.......let's just say I'm getting lazy. Nissan's price for a new one is insane, AFAIC

Calvin, welcome, that's pretty much it, plus it is generally cheaper for car manufacturers to make auto-trans coolers as part of the radiator. It's a compromise and it adds to the load on the radiator. It's been shown that replacing the stock cooler with an external oil/air type can extend the life of the auto trans considerably - esp when engine performance is increased and/or the car is used for towing on a regular basis (ie trans load is increased). It is best to mount the new trans cooler in free air to maximise the benefit, but that's not always possible, of course. I've had many auto cars over the years and the first thing I do is fit an aftermarket trans cooler. Personally I think it's virtually mandatory when the car hasn't been originally designed for Australian conditions (and yes I realise your from Hong Kong ).