SteveL

As I said, it works fine. The small overall area of the oil cooler relative to the area of the radiator means that any extra heat transfer to the radiator is negligable. As to the intercooler - there's hardly any effect at all. In fact, the front bumper shields the intercooler more. I would agree that mounting the oil cooler in free air is best, but that is easier said than done on a stock or near stock GTR. Mounting it near the BOV's is near impossible unless the oil cooler core is tiny, and so hardly worth it. Mounting it in the passenger side vent behind the bumper is definately feasible, but would require _very_ long runs of hose, which is far from ideal. Edit: I would also argue that, assuming the stock water/oil oil cooler is removed/blocked off, it is a zero sum gain in terms of the effect on the cooling system - all other things being equal.

That's where mine is mounted but it's a bit narrower and I was able to keep the aircon receiver/dryer canister. Seems to work fine.

PM re: RB26 manifolds

I'm not surprised the OP is confused after this sort of statement, particularly when I thought we'd already sorted this. Anyway, it's very simple: The OP has an Oz spec R31 now fitted with an RB25DET. The fact that engine was not offered by Nissan as an option for that model means that, by law, he requires an engineers certificate (ie VASS) to show that the conversion meets VicRoads engineering requirements, plus Vicroads might also want to inspect the car. Also: - the fact that he was able to change the engine number just means that the drone at Vicroads simply didn't know what he/she was looking at; - ditto for any cop that doesn't pick it up - which is probably just dumb luck. - ditto for a RWC inspection. All the requirements are shown on the Vicroads website. Without the engineers certificate the car is illegal and all his insurance is invalid.

- check the hose connected from the standard boost pressure sensor (attached to firewall near the brake booster) to the intake manifold. My high idle was caused by cracks in that hose. - check all the hoses connected to the 'sub-plenum' under the intake manifold. It's the aluminium box that the AAC valve bolts to. That little box and the hoses/pipes attached to it are critical to correct idle (there are 5 rubber hoses + 2 metal tubes that supply vac to the brake and clutch boosters). A leak in any one of them will cause idle problems.

Actually that's not quite true - it's illegal to import it, but existing stocks can still be used and aircon specialists are allowed to recover R12 from existing systems and re-use it. Case in point - I had the system in my R32 GTR re-charged with re-cycled R12 a couple of weeks back......$95

From memory this model was 4 cylinder engine (??) When you say 'ford single rail LSD in it' do you mean its got a Ford single rail gearbox in place of the original and an LSD ?? Edit: Google is your friend: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/3823/prince.html Definately a 4 cyl engine and could be either floor shift or column depending on seat configuration.

Take some pictures if you can, I'm intrigued by how much of the cam has broken off.

This is very unlikely.....almost certainly the camshaft was cracked, possibly at installation. Under load with the engine running the crack progressed until the camshaft failed completely. The metal shavings, etc are probably from when the cam pulley bolts contacted the back of the CAS or the CAS mount at failure - the engine would have continued to turn for a short time after the ex cam failed. I've seen a few failures of cams in RB engines as a result of incorrect installation - when doing up the cam cap bolts it's quite easy to put a bending load on the camshaft, and cast iron doesn't take kindly to that. Anyway, that's my theory, I could tell for certain by examining the camshaft. One other thing - you need to hope that valves didn't contact pistons.

Some tool hire shops have them. Make sure you get a brush hone, not the finger type.

AFAIC mini spools should be left for the track, and I think are illegal in most states. Besides the car will be a pain to drive at low speed/parking. If you have a clutch pack LSD centre it should be possible to restore it by re-shimming and it's unlikely to be responsible for the whining, which is probably due to damaged bearings or a shot crown wheel and pionion set.

Well assuming that is the problem, about the worst that could happen I suppose is that the clutch in the transfer case will be fried, meaning no 4WD, but the car should still be driveable. Personally I'd be taking it real easy and getting it looked at ASAP. The fluid in the reservoir in the boot is actually seperate from the fluid in the transfer case (although they're both part of the ATESSA system), but from your description of the colour I'd be changing it ASAP as well as the fluid in the transfer case.

Hmmm, interesting.....according to FAST the gear in the ATESSA housing that drives the pinion shown in those photo's has the same part number for both GTR and GTS4 - it is identical in each case, so the pinion gear teeth form should also be the same.

Based on this, it's possible you overheated the ATESSA fluid (4WD transfer case). Driving in the rain might have caused the system to engage/dis-engage 4WD many, many times due to the system detecting wheel slippage which would generate a lot of heat after a period of time. Might even cause the fluid to degrade and then the ATESSA clutch pack would be affected. It's worth noting that R32 GTR's built for Australia had an extra cooling system added for the ATESSA system with it's own pump and small 'radiator'. Perhaps you've found out why...... (I'm assuming here that yours is an 'import') Anyway, first thing I'd do is change the ATESSA fluid - ATF (Dexron III) is fine.

Neither of these VIN's are recognised by my version of FAST, but if you type in 'B13' or 'B14' into the 'Model Series' area (and hit return), you'll see various drop down menu's appear from which you can select engine type, body type and a number of other options. That might narrow it down for you to something close to the cars in question. It seems that cars manufactured outside of Japan are not covered by some versions of FAST. Mine does not cover Nissan models built in Australia, for example. If yours were built locally or outside of Japan that probably explains what's happening.

Greg - what's the Stagea model designation ??

It will be out, but changing the speedo drive pinion at the gearbox will fix that. Someone might have a secondhand one from a GTS4 gearbox, but the part number for a new one from Nissan is: 32703-05U21

Apexi intake and loom are pending sales. Price drop on ECU.

Can you comprehend that 17V is too high ??

danh & DRFTD 32 - sorry only just seen this, PM would have been better per OP. Anyway PM if you still want a pic and I'll see what I can do. thanks

27mm is a helluva lot to take off the centre of the rim (if I understand correctly), especially in an area where all the load transfer occurs. But perhaps there's sufficient 'meat' (hard to tell from the photos).

17V is too high...battery could be defective, assuming your multi-meter is accurate. Check and clean battery terminals + connections to starter and all earths (esp battery earth to block.

There are inlet and and outlet hoses to the heater core at the firewall. One of them is a single long hose, but the other is made up of 2 shorter hoses joined by the sensor. Nissan sells the hoses individually, so there are 3 hoses + the sensor. On top of that there's another short hose near the thermostat (you probably can't even see that one.....if it's there in your car (??). Plenum was easier to get off than I expected, but still fiddly. The 'secret' is to unbolt the small 'sub' plenum from the main plenum (the 'sub' plenum has the AAC valve attached - in fact it's best remove the AAC valve first). You also need to disconnect the fuel pipes plus a few other small bolts attached to the bottom and side of the plenum - all good fun as it has to be done by feel (ie blind). I also found I needed to use a range of 12mm spanners and small sockets to get the plenum nuts undone. I'd recommend doing all the hoses, etc after you take the plenum off. Heater hose PN's: 92410-05U00 - long heater hose 92402-05U00 - hose from engine to sensor 92401-05U00 - hose from sensor to firewall 27724-05U00 - sensor 14055-05U11 - hose at thermostat housing

Sounds more like a wiring problem.....if by 'blowing' you mean they're failing electrically. Since it's been adapted to the 180SX wiring system, might be worth double checking everything.

As it happens I'm doing mine at the moment as I have the plenum off and decided to replace all the hoses so I only have to do this once (in theory). The heater hoses actually aren't all that expensive from Nissan (well I didn't think so anyway. As you've probably seen there are two hoses attached (or should be in your case ) to pipes that pass through firewall on the passenger side near the ABS actuator. The bottom of these hoses is the 'longest' - it runs behind the engine to the drivers side, angles down near the clutch master and then attches to a fitting at the back of the block above the starter motor. The second hose is actually 2 separate hoses that are joined at a sensor behind the motor near the ignitor box. It pretty much follows the same path as the first hose, but joins to a metal tube arrangement attached to the bottom of the plenum. The metal tube feeds into a fitting near the thermostat housing via another short rubber hose. After all that I'd say it would be very difficult to replace the hoses without removing the plenum and it all becomes obvious once it is removed. If you want I can give you the part numbers for the hoses and they're probably around the $100 mark for them all.