SteveL

In terms of the materials used (321 vs 304) there will be no performance benefit. Any performance gains will be down to the design and quality of construction.

There are basically 2 types of L28 in terms of sump configuration - front sump bowl or rear sump bowl. R30 needs a front sump bowl configuration, but 280ZX has rear type so it won't 'bolt in' without fairly substantial mods.

Certainly legal, but mounting one forward of/on the front of the front bar probably wouldn't be because it would be seen as an increased hazard to pedestrians (ie increase the likelihood/extent of injury).

Check your PM

The main thing to check with the the CAS is corrosion at the connector. If the engine runs otherwise normally then the CAS is probably OK. I'll see what I have on more detailed checks of the coil, etc. Beyond that it's things like: fuel filter - when last changed ?? air filter - ditto. injector conectors - damage/corrosion ?? (not uncommon) is it idling normally (900 rpm or so) ?? all engine hoses, etc in good nick (no cracks etc) Disconnecting the EGO should have no affect at idle, AFAIC.

It's basically there to support one end of the gearbox input shaft, but takes very little load. Nissan will have them.

There was footage of the crash shown on a Ch10 news update earlier today.

It will bolt up and connections are the same, but the amp rating might be lower (if you run lot's of accessories that might be an issue). There's a lot of interchangability with RB alternators. I run an RB20DET alternator in my '87 R31 Silhouette. Also I currently have an R33 RB25DET alternator in my R32 GTR. In both cases the replacement alternators had a higher output (amps) than the originals and bolted in. The physical position of some of the connectors varied on the back of the alternators, but there was no problem getting things connected up.

Have you got a copy of the factory WS manual ?? Has the best description of the procedure. I've done it, but would take too much time to type it all in here - my typing skills aren't that great If I get a chance I'll take a phot of the connector.

Have you tried the Oz 300ZX forums ?? http://www.aus300zx.com/

The resistance won't tell you if the insulation is breaking down. CAS = Crank Angle Sensor, which is built into the distrubutor. The black, multi-pin connector at the 'top' of the distributor is the connector to it. It's quite common for the rubber boot on the connector to crack with age and then water gets in causing corrosion and then ignition problems. AFM = Air Flow Meter (you were close....). Measure air flow into the engine, but if that were failing it should trip an error code (code 12). As far as the coil and transistor are concerned, porbably best way to check is to swap for known good ones, but in the first instance check the 2-pin connectors to each for corrosion and other damage. Transistor is bolted to the side of the distributor, coil is obvious.

AFAIC all RB engined R31/R32/R33 are the same - 90kPa/13psi

First thing I'd check is the spark leads with the bonnet open and engine running on a (very) dark night, looking for arcing. Your symptoms are suggestive of spark lead insulation break-down. I've they are 11+years old (even orignals ??) I'd be replacing them. The fact that the problem occurs after things have warmed up under the bonnet is another pointer to electrical issues. Other possibilities are corrosion of the connectors to the CAS and AFM (very common at the CAS connector on the RB30); AFM on the way out (but you said no error code so perhaps not); and break-down of the ignition transistor and/or coil.

I have a large one like that which I've used, but some designs can have difficulty getting a grip. A two-legged one is sometimes better as it gives more options in terms of placement on the pulley (the timing cover can get in the way being quite close to the back of the pulley in places).

Best to get a WS manual of some description. It's a matter of lining up marked links on the chain with marks on the sprockets - far too much for me to explain here (my typing's not that good). There's also a tensioner at the bottom of the timing case which is the cause of all your problems - it's probably popped out and will need to be put back. You should inspect all the guides and tensioner will everythings off. You'll also need a set of gaskets for the timing cover.

Radiatior support panel is what the radiator is bolted to - structural panel at the front of the car.

The 'claw' type is the most common but can be hard to fit between the pulley and the radiator panel depending on the design. Also sometimes hard to find somewhere to 'grip' on the pulley. If the pulley has a couple of threaded holes, there are pullers that use those, but they are less common.

Now that the camchain is off you will need to be very careful not to turn the crank - otherwise valves contact pistons, etc. You could back off the tappet adjustment and even remove the rockers entirely to avoid that problem. With an auto you can remove the lower part of the bell-housing cover (ie under the car) and expose the back of the flex plate (flywheel) and also the ring gear. It's then possible to jam the ring gear with a wood block, etc (improvise) which should allow you to undo the crank bolt. Another way is to remove the starter motor and ditto. You will need a puller for the pulley/balancer.

Fan is bolted to the water pump via the viscous cluch hub - you should see 4 nuts holding it and the water pump pulley in place (ie bolting it to the water pump). Crank pulley/harmonic balancer is held in place by a large bolt up the centre - it's bolted to the crank. Bolt has 27mm hex head = 27mm socket. You'll need a large breaker bar + hold the crank stationary. If car is a manual you could try putting it in gear/handbrake on, etc.

Crank pulley has to come off as do all the other things you mentioned. The other problem you have is that the sump is bolted to the front cover (front 3 or 4 bolts). The cover has locating pins which requires it to be moved forward before it can come out + it means breaking the seal/gasket at the sump. I've seen it done without removing the sump, but acheiving an oil tight seal is difficult.

The roll pin simply locates the reluctor on the shaft (ie positions it for correct timing), the reluctor itself is actually a light press-fit to the shaft. Unfortunately with time and a bit of corrosion it can become a bit hard to budge. Try using something like WD40 (only a small amount) and then levering gently with a couple of screwdrivers on either side of the reluctor. Best to hold the body in a vice (prefereably with soft jaw inserts). I've pulled a few L24E/L28E dizzies apart over the years. They have a design weakness in the vac advance support plate mechanism which has ball bearings retained by a plastic cage to allow movement of the stator by the vac can Unfortunately the plastic cage falls apart with heat/age and the mechanism wanders all over the place giving erratic timing.

I'd say you haven't removed the block drain, which seems to be a common 'mistake'. Unfortunately it can be a bit difficult to get to and undo being at the back of the block 'behind' the turbo.

I have an R33 GTR bell-housing. PM an offer if you like.

I'll take one, can pick up in Melbourne. Duncan: it has Australian Standard compliance according to the note at the bottom of the brochure, which is what I think you are meaning.

Check here: http://www.abc.net.au/tv/guide/abc2/200601...2006T224500.htm