SteveL

Anyone that has access to the ABC2 digital channel currently they are showing footage from a 1970's Sandown endurance event with the big V8's (Ford/Holden, Brock, Harvey, Goss, etc) mixing it with Escorts, alfa's and even a Honda Civic (!!).....ah those were the days, all classes running together at the same time, none of this pansy taxi stuff. Last night they had F5000's from AIR - black and whitre footage from early 70's.

Yes the RB20 yoke will not fit an RB25DET gearbox. Z32 300ZX uses the same gearbox yoke as RB25DET.

Seriously doubt it. Haven't looked at an RB in that regard, but with an L-series engine (think of it as the RB's ancestor) it certainly can't be done. Even if it were possible to ge the piston's out that way, getting them back in with new rings will be an absolute bastard......

I would suggest asking the engineer that issued the VASS about the seat belts. If he (or she !!) is happy with them then VicRoads will be too and it won't be the first time a RWC mechanic has got it wrong.....OTOH, having new seat belts is not a bad idea. With the brake rotors, as I said, 2mm is a loooong way undersize and the wear will be obvious even to the naked eye (heavy ridging and scoring). Since it's an import it's not unheard of for inspectors to misread the specs or use the wrong ones so it might be that the discs are actually fine, but you will have to have some concrete proof to present to the mechanic (eg Nissan specs) if that is the case. Oil leaks are a mandatory RWC rejection item in Vic. Sometimes it's possible to simply degrease the area and tighten any screws or bolts and rocker covers ara common area because tension on the retaining screws 'relaxes' as the gaskets shrink with age. I used Noltec bushes on the front upper links of my GTR and the kit was around $100 from a local supplier. Whiteline were about 50% more expensive for basically the same thing. Nissan don't supply the bushes as a separate item, you have to buy the complete upper link as an assembly at about $300 each or so.

I've still got the calipers and discs shown here (no front calipers tho): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=86549&hl= I want to get rid of them out of the garage so you can make me an offer if you like. I'm in Melbourne.

2mm is a fair way under size, but I suppose it's possible if they were machined down to their absolute minimum and then used _hard_ or for a very long time, although having both front and rears the same would be a tad unusual. I think the minimum front rotor thickness is 28mm for R32 GTS4, but someone might correct me, not sure on the rears. Oil leak, tyres and wishbone bushes is fair enough. A kit of p/urethane bushes cost me around $100, but I fitted them myself. The guy that did the RWC on my 89 GTR didn't even look at the seat belts, they also passed engineering inspection (VASS).

It's one of your top gearbox attachment bolts (ie for bolting the gearbox to the engine). The hose/tube/bracket is the gearbox breather. You need to refit and tighten it, plus check all the other bolts for tightness (gearbox or clutch wasn't changed recently by any chance ??)

R32 GTS4 uses the same design/strength R200 diff as R32 GTS-t and GTR (not to mention R33 GTS-t and GTR, R34 etc - there are different ratio's used, of course). There is no problem with strength as long as the diff is in good condition.

You were going so well. 304 is barely 'stainless steel' in real terms. 316 offers improved corrosion resistance and the low carbon content should be used whenever there is a likelihood of corrosion - hot corrosion is definately an issue for the internal surfaces of an exhaust system

I could pick on so much in your post, but lets stick with this. Stainless steel can be annealed like any other steel and it actually has about twice the thermal expansion rate of carbon steel. I'm a metallurgist by profession with, well, let's just say many years experience including specialisation in material and welding specifications for stainless steels. You'll notice I mentioned 316L specifically - there's good reason for specifying the low carbon form when welding. If you work with it you'll know why.

S15 uses R200 (same housing as GTR,etc) and has 3.7 gears (from memory - have to double check but pretty sure that's right). Actually got a set there if your interested - I used the centre from the S15 diff for another project.

Your water pump seal is gone, so it's water pump replacement time I'm afraid. Suggest doing the timing belt+bearings at the same time.

If by a kit you mean the timing belt+bearings, then no they don't. They'll get them in for you as a bunch of parts - but that's not what I'd call a 'kit'. AFAIC, buy the belt from Nissan, but get the bearings from a bearing specialist as that will be much cheaper than Nissan for exactly the same parts. Around $90 will be the retail price for the genuine belt and I paid just over $100 for the bearings from a local specialist.

no they don't....bolt pattern is different.

Cost for the most part. Theoretically stainless steel should be more durable (ie last longer), but the grade of stainless used I've found is at the 'lower end' of the scale, as it were (ie 304.....if they used something like 316L I'd be more impressed).

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=98383&hl=

There are no rubber 'seals' as such with the front windscreen on an R32 GTR and I believe the same is true of the rear. The windscreen is bonded in place and the bonding agent (essentially a type of silcone) also forms the weather seal. There are also various plastic channels and spacers which are used to locate the windsreen and attach the outer trim and these are sometimes called 'seals', but they actually don't 'seal' anything as such. And yes, they are also expensive. I've had the front windscreen replaced on my R32 GTR and I was there when it was done. No rubber seals were present nor needed to be replaced.

Just to confirm these PN's are correct, I received my RH and LH door seals jut before Christmas. What you get is slightly more than I originally indicated - you get the seal + the metal channel it sits in. The metal channel has a number of 'barbs' protruding along its length which are used to fix the assembly to the doo trim. Doesn't look too difficult.

Rear screen is bonded in place like the front, I think. There's no rubber seal as such. Best thing would be to talk to a windscreen specialist and see what they would charge to remove and refit the old one. Will have to be done carefully as the rear screen is tempered glass which shatters easily.

Certainly a collectors item. Still, if I had those sort of $$ 'lying around' I think I'd still get a Ferrari.

Sorry...didn't have my glasses on when I read that Never seen one that close, although almost bought a Fairlady Z with one in it once. I read somewhere they had a unique head, something like 'OS' or '05' as the identifier. Don't kow any specs.

L-series 2L 6cyl turbo, also fuel injected.

L28 - probably the most common L28 head in Oz.

Pffft dealers....come to us first....we know all (well, maybe a little anyway.....)

Why ??....there's nothing anyone can do with it. Just had a thought tho.....Santa could use it to get you the correct parts at Chrissy