SteveL

If GTS4's are like GTR's (and I think they are) there's no need to remove the front hubs to get the studs out and new one's in. Disc and caliper have to come off, of course, but if you look at the backing plate near the hub with the caliper off you will see a small semi-circular cut-out. At first it would appear there's not enough room to get the studs out, but nissan put the cut-out in place to give sufficient room to (just) allow enough room for th studs to slip out at a bit of an angle. To get the stud out, turn the hub until the one in question is lined up with the cut-out. Then using a reasonably hefty hammer, drive the stud out toward the backing plate. Sometimes that can take quite a bit of force, but be careful not to 'mushroom' the end of stud your striking otherwise you'll make more trouble for yourself. Personally I use a piece of aluminium or brass as a drift which distorts rather than the steel of the stud. Once the stud comes free, angle it out through the cut-out decribed above. Slip the new stud into place. Since it's difficult to 'drive' the new stud into place because you can't get to the back of it with a hammer, I 'draw' the stud into place using an old wheel nut with the end cone machined off and a spacer. Tightening the nut up with the spacer gradually pulls the stud into place. Another way is to put the wheel on and use that as the 'spacer' and gradually tighten the wheel nut until the stud is seated. If you have a steel wheel for a spare, use that as the steel wheels are a bit thinner at the stud points which gives a bit more thread to use. Whichever way you you choose, go carefully and if you feel any resistance stop and check things. I also use a bit of grease on the threads and contact faces when putting the new stud in which 'helps' things on a bit as well as a bit of insurance against thread galling. Hope that helps.

From memory $15-$20 per stud/bolt.

Look up 'Thread Doctor' (something like that) in the yellow pages.

The tart number of the ECU in the Oz spec GTR's is unique so it's probable the tuning was specific to our conditions, inc fuel.

It's been awhile since I looked at one of these but I believe there's a fuel pump relay near the ECU - behind the passenger side kick panel. The relay is green from memory. Actually there might even be 2 relays that look the same, but only one is for the pump. Anyway, worth a check. Also if you have access to a multimeter you could check for +12V on any wires associated with the pump or the relay (ign on, of course).

The R33 GTR pump has a slotted hole for a 6mm bolt at the 'top' - you can't really miss it. I put one on my R32 GTR and had to 'fill' the hole a small amount on the block face side as there wasn't quite enough 'overlap' to acheive a seal. The hole doesn't need to be filled completely and it's not a good idea anyway if your welding it because the extra heat input can distort the pump, even if your using TIG. Plus it means extra machining, of course (they are a bitch to hold in the mill without the right vice/clamping eqpt/jig.

There is another possibility....heater core. In that case tho the leaking fluid will be either green if your using coolant (although some coolants are red) or rust coloured water if your not (and that would probably explain the leak). Let's hope it's not the heater core.

Yes it's the aircon unit (evaporator) and the water is probably due to a blocked drain hose. Condensation from the evaporator drops to the bottom of the box and drained to the outside of the car through a rubber hose that passes through the firewall into the engine bay. The hose will be attached somewhere near the bottom of the box. You need to check it isn't blocked in the engine bay (look for a black hose coming fom the firewall on the passenger probably with a right angle bend toward the road), or by crap that gathers in the bottom of the box after many years of use.

Unfortunately your L28 won't fit his C210 - the sump bowl is in the wrong place. Z's have a rear bowl sump, but 240K/C210/R30 (not to mention R31/R32/R33/R34) have a front bowl sump. Something which I should have mentioned before. It's possible to modify the sump and particularly the pick-up to fit, but it's not a simple 'bolt on' proposition.

Found it. FAST shows it goes into the block near the oil filter boss. The drawing in FAST is a bit vague - might be on the internal surface or even on the sump line.

Yes, but why buy 100 when you need 4 ?? (OK, a few spares is good, but that's a bit over the top......) The few bolts you need will cost maybe $1 from a bolt specialist. Just check the yellow pages for bolt suppliers in your area. Ring them and ask if they stock M6 x 15mm (length....just a suggestion) hex head bolts or screws, preferably plated (zinc). I'll be very surprised if the first one you ring doesn't have them. Note that places like AutoBarn, etc will have them.

Black smoke is not oil burning, but excess fuel (ie rich mixture).

Just standard M6 metric AFAIC.

Don't think so. S12 got FJ20 and CA18, I think. Maxima models sold in the US got L24E (like our R30 Skylines).

While they both share the L24 designation, in fact their performance is very different. Small port/valve head and low compression + single carb really emasculated the L24S (S=single carb) in C210 (I'm assuming you still have the stocker). My advice would be to ditch the L24 entirely and get an L28. Then put in a cam, bump compression a little, fit a free flowing exhaust and perhaps a set of 240Z carbs and you'll have something that will have performance worlds away from your current setup. If you must stick to the current L24 then try to find a head from an r30 Skyline, which will give roughly the same CR, but have bigger ports/valves and allow the engine to breath. Then fit exhaust/carbs/cam as per L28 above. Flat top pistons from 240Z L24 can be used to bump compression.

Shouldn't affect oil consumption at all (other than perhaps by an increase in performance, but certainly not to the extent of blowing lot's of smoke). Something else has happened - eg valve guide seals installed incorrectly or not at all (don't laugh, saw that done once by a 'professional mechanic'). You need to talk to whoever did the head work or re-assembled the head.

Well on mine it's stamped into the block just 'behind' the alternator. If you look using a torch (can be hard to see) underneath the inlet manifold in the gap where the oil dipstick is you should be able to see it.

middle - you should be able to see the step machined into the block. Also if you look at the crank at the mating position you can see the mating thrust face.

It's unlikely to be the diff, BUT if the input pinion bearings are shagged it could cause the tailshaft to float around sufficiently to cause this sort of problem. I've never seen an R200 that was that bad and usually they get quite noisy well beforehand. A badly worn slipjoint at the gearbox can give a similar problem, although in that case oil leaks preceed other signs. To me it sounds like tailshaft whip, which can occur when there is too much 'offset' between the connection of the tailshaft to the gearbox and its connection to the diff. IOW the imaginary line drawn between the centre of the gearbox to the centre of the diff should be as straight as possible. Shimming the gearbox mount can help but it depends on which way you need to go. I had a similar problem with an Oz spec R31 Skyline sedan when I replace the tailshaft with a single piece unit that was quite long. Had bad shudders at similar speeds to yours and ended up modifying the gearbox mount. The problem is still there but nowhere near as great. Generally the longer the tailshaft the more sensitive it will be.

Probably the same (November)

If your talking about turbo'd models then no, they aren't.

This car was built November 1989.

In that case I'd say definately a 1989.

Most likely not a 1992 going on the 4240 number. Probably late 1989 or early 1990. My GTR is 001650 and was manufactured Sept 1989 so that gives you an idea. I'll check in FAST tomorrow, or someone else might beforehand. It's not a website, but a program....do a search and you'll find lot's of discussion.