SteveL

I bought the remains of his broken gearbox and used some of the parts to rebuild an R32 GTR gearbox that I couldn't get the original parts for from Nissan (NLA, as I said....). $3K or thereabouts was the figure he quoted from memory. In any event JustJap had brand new R33 GTR gearboxes (less transfer case) for around $3200, although I haven't checked recently.

That's just 3rd and 4th.....many of the original R32 GTR gearbox parts are NLA from Nissan. I haven't checked them all, but certainly the design of 3rd and 4th gears was totally changed and Nissan simply discontinued production of the superceded parts.

1. either use degreaser to completely clean the rocker covers or wax/grease remover (or even just petrol) to clean the 'grooves'. 2. 3 Bond is probably best sealer and it's what the factory uses. Burson's carry it. 3. the little rubber washers are available from Nissan (and shown in FAST). Pesronally I would replace them at the same time as they compress and go hard with age.

I can't tell you exactly other than 'lots', but to upgrade an R32 GTR gearbox to late R33 specs is about $1800 (trade). That involves replacing 3 and 4th gears (note 4th gear is really the input shaft to the gearbox which the clutch drives) complete with new synchros plus the countershaft and some other parts. OTOH a new R33 gearbox can be had for about $3000, but the transfer case is not included.

While there's no problem replacing one rod (I've done it with L-series engines), Nissan rods are a matched set from the factory so it's particularly important to compare the weight of the replacement rod with the weight of the rods in the original set. Hopefully your engine builder is aware of this.

No they're not, from about 1996 at least from memory. The design was totally changed and that includes the gears themselves, not just the synchros. To put them in requires changing a bunch of associated parts, which amounts to many $$$ I'm speaking from experience here, having actually done it, although I was able to save some money by using the remains of a broken r33 gearbox. To make things worse, a lot of the original R32 GTR gearbox parts are NLA from Nissan.

Do a google search on 'spark plug indexing', you'll find a huge amount of info. IMHO of highly debatable value except possibly where your going for that last pooftenth of power (ie race engines). As to the second part, one way is to use shims under the spark plug. Some performance shops use to be able to get them, but I haven't looked for years.

If the disc is loose on the studs then it's probably being held in by wear caused by the park brake shoes. If you look through that hole for the rubber bung at some point in the rotation you'll see a toothed wheel. That's the auto adjuster for the park brake shoes. You need to stick a suitable screwdriver through the hole and 'back off' the shoes to get sufficient clearance. Can't remember which way you turn it, but if you go the wrong way things will just get tighter. OTOH if the disk is still tight on the studs you should be able to see 2 tapped holes in the surface of the disc that locates against the hub. Try screwing in a 6mm thread bolt (10mm hex head) into each of the those holes. gradually tightening them should eventually cause the disk to break free. Giving the disk a rap with a rubber mallet also helps if it's a bit stubborn.

Corrosion on the 'bore' of the piston - surfaces that see no brake fluid - is not an issue. The main surfaces to be concerned about are those that contact the seal. Any scratches, gouges or corrosion to those surfaces could cause a leak (ie damage the seal)

Non-STi rex's use an R160 with mechanical LSD as the rear diff (STi's use R180). The 'R' designation refers to the housing type, as does the 'F'. It _might_ be the case that an R160 centre fits an F160 housing, but frankly I'd be surprised if it was a 'bolt in' proposition. Datto 1600's use an R160 diff in stock form although none came with an LSD (in Oz at least), and some have bolted in a rex centre, but usually an R180 is used because it's easy to fit and stronger. Some have even put in an R200.

Definately not possible. Rear diff is a 200mm crown wheel, front diff is something like 160mm.....the centre wouldn't even fit in the housing, let alone the front diff crown wheel.

yes...I still have my '74 260Z.

You've missed the point. It's one thing to be a member of an essentially Govt appointed panel, but entirely another to have done the proper scientific testing. I would prefer to see the CSIRO itself (or some equivalent body) present it's own evidence on the matter and thereby provide a sound basis on which the public can judge. It is clear that Nissan has it's reason's for the statements it has made, and it is also clear that Nissan is in the best position to judge the effects on the vehicles it manufactures. I'd also note that Nissan (amongst others) is not represented on the panel you list and I believe Mazda (owned by Ford, I think) takes a similar position (to Nissan). It's also not a question of 'scaremongering'...there are many instances in history where science has come out in support of a particular technology and made claims about it being 'safe'.....only to find 5,10,15 years down the track that there are 'unforeseen' effects.

It could simply be a defective sender unit, which is not uncommon with RB engines, although usually it's the pressure gauge and not the light that's affected (if you have a separate gauge). If your concerned I'd suggest having the oil pressure checked using a known good or calibrated mechanical gauge. A reputable mechanic should be able to do a check fairly cheaply.

Perhaps you should go on to say that one of the main manufacturers/proponents of ethanol blended fuels has strong links to the Liberal party if not the PM himself. As an aside it's interesting to note that bio-diesel is to be differentially taxed to it's detriment compared with ethanol to the point that it is debatable whether the fledgling industry will survive...... In any event, Nissan has not stated that you can't use ethanol blended fuels, but that it is not recommended for vehicles manufactured before a certain date. The date is significant because it suggests production changes were made to accomodate such fuels. Personally, I'll take the word of the manufacturer for the time being, rather than un-attributed 'studies'. Show me some research into into the long term effects (if any) by a reputable, independent scientific organisation (eg CSIRO) and I'll consider using the stuff. But even then I would question the value for a street driven car in the (nominal) 2 points of RON rating to be gained (ie 100 RON as apposed to 98). I'd suggest the performance difference would be hardly noticable, if at all.

I _think_ I've got one from an RB25DE Stagea somewhere, but I'd have to check. Looks very similar. Might even have the bracket.

Which one ??...from R31 models onward the clutch and brake pedal boxes are actually separate items. Getting the clutch one out just requires unbolting the clutch master, then the whole pedal box comes out complete with pedal. OTOH the brake pedal box also supports the steering column and requires a fair bit more work to get out.

No, they use separate lubricants.

Most likely the rubber boot at the bottom of the gearstick has deteriorated (cracked torn). That was the case with mine. Replacement is $30-$40 from Nissan. BTW, in a GTR the shifter is fitted to the top of the 4WD transfer case. So overfilling the gearbox would not cause a problem in that area, but overfilling the transfer case might. and the leaking fluid will be ATF.

It's not an Oz delivered car....... unless the bonnet has been changed. Oz delivered R32 GTR's have the standard 'Nissan' badge on the bonnet (amongst other things), but import jap spec cars have a small, stylised 'S' - which I can see on that car. So it's probably an import. Anyway, good luck with the sale.

From Nissan Oz website: "For Nissan vehicles manufactured prior to 1 January 2004, Although capable of operation on ethanol-blended ULP, Nissan does NOT recommend the use of ethanol-blended fuel in these vehicles."

Tell me where and I'll buy it.

RRP of $US299 for the bare bones model and $399 for the 'top spec' version. Apparently the cheaper model is not backward compatible with orginal x-box games but the more expensive version is.

If you can still get all gears without problems then it was probably the shifter.

AFAIA the ADR's don't specifically cover pod filters or intercoolers, they are actually EPA issues to do with intake modifications effecting emissions. According to VicRoads, at least, pod filters are not an 'engineering issue.....refer the EPA'. Suggest you contact engineers (not the desk drone) at your local rego authority (wherever you are) as well as the EPA.