SteveL

PM

Greg - I understand that the 30+ year requirement HAS made into the new scheme, but details have yet to be announced. In fact, details are very scant at the moment as (as usual) Vicroads is running late with getting this thing up and running. It was all supposed to be in place by the October/November 2010. For anyone interested the original discussion paper sent out to clubs is here: http://www.aomc.asn.au/publications/Vic%20Car%20Club%20Brochure_WEB.pdf The 30+ year change is outlined in that doc. Essentially, from Feb 2011 the new scheme will be in place, log books+stickers issued, etc - although it's still not clear whether they're going to issue these to everyone in Feb, or at the time of reg renewal. From Feb 2011 to Feb 2016 the old 25+ age rule will apply, but after that the age will be lifted to 30+. The 5 year delay is to allow some grace to those people that might be building or restoring cars (fair enough....). In the very early stages of discussions over these proposed changes it was suggested that the age also be lifted by one year for each calendar year after the scheme's introduction - but that hasn't made into the new scheme as far as I can find out.......yet. It's worth noting that these are regulations, which don't require new legislation to implement but only the Ministers approval to Vicroads. So expect some 'fine tuning' in the future. For those with modified cars thinking of using the new scheme, it might be harder or at least more expensive than you think. Word is that anything outside the street rod definition will require VASS inspection and sign-off before Vicroads will consider. Anyway, I think the new scheme is a good thing....and I'll still be allowed to get my '89 GTR onto it (unless they change things again......).

Yeh, well, here's just a minor, insignificant detail that you conveniently left out of your FS thread AND your personal profile: YOUR IN MALAYSIA <--------------potential buyers please take note So not only is not possible to inspect the parts (unless the potential buyer lives in KL), postage costs are significant, to put it mildly. I'd also draw your attention to the SAU rules for the FS section, which require you to state your location, amongst other 'minor' details: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RU...SSI-t76463.html

PM re: AAC

If by 'pumpkin' you mean the diff centre, then it should be possible BUT I believe S15 auto used a viscous LSD (right ??) so you'd also need to use the R32 output shafts. [caveat] I've never done what your trying to do, but I have done a few swaps of the S15 manual LSD (helical type, similar to R34 GTR) into 'other' R200's.

So....in what way was the car deemed unroadworthy ??

They look too young to be separated from the mother. It's generally accepted that kittens should be kept with the mother for at least 12 weeks. You should also try to keep them together (ie sell) as pairs. If you can't sell them, please take to the RSPCA who will look after them (and I don't mean in THAT way......). Good Luck

Yes, that's it. It will be bolted (two bolts) to the coolant transfer pipe that connects near the thermostat housing. There will also be an electrical connection.

200ZR is just a Z31 with a RB20DET. The version with a VG30ET is more common and I'd be surprised if an FMIC for that wasn't reasonably readily available. The IC itself should pretty much bolt in, but the piping will be different (probably much easier than trying to fit an R32 FMIC kit tho....). Suggest you do a search for 'Z31 FMIC' using Google.

If the car is running fine and your happy with it, then I'd just drive and enjoy. The issue with the plugs will probably remain a mystery. In terms of fuel, you should run as close to what is recommended as possible. 98 is the minimum I would run, but lower is possible, just take it easy. One thing - don't rely on the knock sensor to do your tuning for you (so to speak)....it's not designed for that.

Have a friend that might be interested. What suburb is the pick up from ??

95 is probably a bit on the low side, but should be OK as long as you don't push it too hard and are running stock boost and timing. AFAIA these cars are designed to run on around 100 octane Jap fuel so the further you are away from that standard the more likely damage is to occur. Anyway, may not be the total answer for the plug damage you have, but possibly a contributing factor.

Those champion plugs look much like I'd expect a standard set to after quite a few k's - rounding of the centre electrode due to erosion, which also increases the gap. There seems to be bit of variation in combustion between cylinders but that might be due to the increasing gap....also could just be the photo. In any event, the amount of k's to produce the same erosion in a set of platinum plugs should be considerably greater (assuming normal combustion). One possible common thing here is fuel - what do you run in these cars over there ??

Don't assume the worst on the part of the seller. Unless the history of the engine is well documented, it's possibly either an innocent mistake or (more likely) one of those situations in which some distortion has occurred. Very difficult to prove one way or the other. That said, I have seen a rather worrying trend recently where seller's are separating parts they shouldn't. Block girdles is one example, another is camshaft caps.

Gearbox in GTS4 is the same as in GTR and is a big, heavy mongrel of a thing to get out and back in. It's a job best done on a hoist with a transmission jack, or at least with 2 or 3 people to help. I use a heavy duty Patrol clutch in my GTR (it's pretty standard....) and should do fine in a GTS4.

If your engine builder is doing his job properly, he has miked up the main tunnels and found ovality or something out of spec, so correction via honing or boring is needed. Nissan blocks are pretty rigid so it's a little unusual to find one out of spec, but not unheard of.

According to the OP the car is standard apart from the HKS exhaust. Given the temperature capabilities of the plug materials, I doubt that simply incorrect heat-range selection has caused that damage.

Those plugs aren't fouled, they're eroded, which is either caused by very high mileage or unusual combustion - particularly, unusually high temps at the plug tip.

It's true that some older autos used an extra cable connected to the TB to control auto kick-down function (ie WOT selects lower gear for acceleration). Popular on older Fords, whereas Holden used a switch triggered by the accelerator pedal (hydramatics and trimatics + T series from memory). AFAIA older Nissan auto's never used cable for kick-down and certainly their auto's from the late 80's (eg Series 3 R31) have been fully electronic (ie full ECU control via solenoids). I'd say the cable on the OP's car is for cruise.

Definitely doesn't need that...that's for GTR injectors, or an engine fitted with GTR injectors.

A photo would help. Cruise control is a possibility.

Check error codes, that will confirm if AFM is the problem or perhaps something else. I don't have details, but do a google search for 'R31 Skyline Club' as they certainly will. Also check for corrosion at ignition electrical connectors in engine bay, particularly CAS connector at distributor, which is notorious for letting in water.

Actually they claim 100,000 miles (nearly 161,000 km's !!) and a five year guarantee (with conditions, of course): http://www.autolite.com/products/doublePlatinum.php Can't really comment on the rest, but I also doubt your car has done only 55,000kms

Is this car standard ?? Those photos show badly eroded Autolite double-platinum plugs, which should last around 100,000 miles in a more-or-less standard engine. 'Double platinum' means they have platinum on the earth electrode as well as the centre electrode. Those plugs have done a lot of work. Sorry to say, but they look like they're from a car that's done 155,000kms rather than 55,000. That said, I suppose it's possible they were put in your engine from another car with high mileage......

No idea about the pump, although looks pretty stock. The other part is the rear main (crankshaft) seal carrier, with an oil seal still in place. This bolts to the back of the block.....the opposite end to the oil pump.