SteveL

It's the 'small' non-turbo gearbox also found behind R32 GTSt's. Definately not an R33 turbo gearbox. They've just used the original gearbox from the car and bolted in the bigger motor - saves a bunch of work in terms of tailshafts, etc. edit: I'll re-phrase that first sentence as: "It's the 'small' gearbox used behind RB20DET in R32GTSt's as well as non-turbo's"

It won't be helical, that was only used in R34 GTR's and S15's. Viscous was used in GTSt's, 300ZX, etc.

- All r32 GTR LSD's are clutch pack to my knowledge. It's possible there may have been other centres used, but FAST indicates they were all clutch type. Not sure about the 'way' thing, my interpretation of the design of the stock centre is it's 2-way. - I believe the bolt spacing might make them 'unique' but I've found halfshafts are interchangable between R200's (believe it or not S15 halfshafts fit 260Z R200...and vice versa). The exception is viscous LSD's which have a unique design. - rear cover should swap over no problem, but also consider whether the tailshaft attachment is the same (should change over anyay). - 4.1

Cams aren't affected, but you'll need to reset the ign timing because the CAS need to be removed to take the cover off. Best thing to do is to mark the position of the CAS before taking it off so that it can be put back into the same place, although personally I'd still check the timing regardless.

There are probably a myriad of things I wouldn't give a second thought to, but might become 'issues' if you've never done this before. The main things I can think of are: - getting the crank bolt undone (and done up at the end) - getting the belt cog off the crank (I see there's another thread - personally I regard cold chisels and angle grinders as an absolute last resort......) - cam timing (make sure you fully understand how this is done BEFORE you even consider pulling things apart - I'd strongly recommend getting all the marks lined up before taking anything off). - make sure you have all the spare parts you need on hand before doing any work (eg replacement belt cog if you plan on taking a cold chisel to the old one, waterpump, timing belt, seal, etc, etc). Above all have a good think about how your going to tackle the job, allow plenty of time and have a read of the threads on these forums (ie do a search) of which there are many that have discussed pretty much exactly what your planning. If your not sure, ask, and perhaps even find a member here that is local to you and might be able to offer direct hands-on help/assistance in the event you get into difficulties.

http://www.accessauto.com.au/store/default.pl

I have a specially bent screwdriver that does the job (seriously). You'll have to improvise BUT be very careful not to scratch/score the surfaces of the pump where the seal fits or you might end up with another leak. The new one is simply pressed into place, but I usually put a (thin) smear of grease on the outer surface to help it go in. Make sure you lubricate the 'lips' of the new seal (ie where it contacts the crank surface) with oil before it goes in.

That is not correct, assuming your talking about the crank oil seal. Basically it's a case of removing the harmonic balancer + timing belt cog (and a couple of associated large guides/washers) then prising out the seal before putting in the new one. There's no need to remove the oil pump. Of course, taking off the belt cog also means removing the timing belt/covers, etc, so might be a good idea to consider replacing the belt as well depending on the k's it's done, plus also worth considering replacing the water pump. All this depends on what you know about the condition of those parts.

Maybe you should edit your previous post in this thread.........

For an 89-91 R32 GTR: 80834-04U00, Weatherstrip Front Door Inside, RH 80835-04U00, Weatherstrip Front Door Inside, LH Having not ordered and received one as yet I haven't confirmed for myself that this is the correct part, but from the description and what is shown in FAST I believe this to be correct (I'm just covering myself a little here....knowing some of the quirks of the Nissan parts system )

'Weak' is a term that someone else used.....it's all relative. Having had one apart and seen the design I can see where the potential for failure is greater given particular features of the Torsen T2 design (S15/R34 base).

Heat....sun....age

It's the TPS (=throttle position sensor). If you look closely you'll see a short lead coming out 'underneath' that grey connector which leads to another connector just near by - I think it's the one you can see just below the TPS. It's connected to the ECU and tells the engine management whether your at idle or not. That is used for either auto or manual cars. The grey connector which has no wires (on a manual - auto cars would have wires) is only used on auto's and tells the auto management system the exact throttle position via a voltage divider cct. If your car is a manual, don't worry about it.

A lot of people seem to refer to the Quaife/Torsen style of diff centre as 'helical'. I seem to remember Nissan doing that in some of their sales blurb.

It's actually torque that kills these - the achilles heal of the Quaife/Torsen centres is pretty much the same: sudden application of load to one wheel causes overload of the internal gears dues to the nature of the way they work. For example, lifting one wheel through a corner and then having the same wheel suddenly take up load again.

My passenger side is like that. I checked in FAST and it seems to be available as a spare part, but I haven't got around to ordering one yet. About $40 (trade) from Nissan. I had the door trim off and it simply slides into a channel on the trim itself. If you like I can dig out the part numbers, although having the VIN of the car is the best way with FAST.

S15 centre is a Torsen, not a Quaife. It's actually what is known as a Torsen Type 2, which is not particularly strong due to the long, spindly nature of some of the internal connecting gears. The Torsen Type 1 is a much better design and used in some Toyota's, I believe. Don't know about R34's - I've only seen pictures - but the centre looks very similar to the S15 type.

A set of plates is around $700 via nengun, etc, but can also be bought locally for roughly the same price. Adelaide clutch services (I think that was the name) can get them. Nismo clutches are made by Exedy so you could try them as well: http://www.exedy.com.au/ As suggested, the flywheel you have is only of any use with that clutch.

Most likely. Nissan only uses forged steel cranks, and I'd be very surprised if they are nitrided.

That's the PN for an R32 GTR turbo, 89-91.

Actually I've probably misled you on the 'upgrade' answer. Most people just chuck in a set of upgraded pads....EBC, etc - which is what i really meant by 'easy'. There are a couple of problems with going beyond that with the Oz spec R31 stock brake setup. One is that the stock caliper is the sliding head type which limits the caliper performance as well as the range of pads. The other is that the stock disc is the integral hub type (hub/disc are one piece) which (severely)limits options in terms of changing discs. Most people try to find a set of HR31 turbo struts + brakes because the hub and disc are separate items, so disc upgrade is fairly easy. The HR31 still uses a sliding head caliper, but it's much bigger and definately superior to the Oz R31 caliper. In addition, the caliper mounts on the HR31 struts are suitable for mounting R32/Z32 calipers, so that opens you up to a far superior brake setup as well as pad range. The down-side is finding a set of HR31 struts, which is easier said than done.

Yes Yes Yes Yes (or I believe so - haven't checked for awhile, but be surprised if you can't) Yes....well, anything can be done depending on $$$ (HR31 turbo brakes are a better option) ??? - don't have the data here, but not very big on the front.

Ball-bearing turbo's have a 6mm bolt (10mm hex head) near the water fitting (ie in the same plane as the water fitting). The centre is also physically larger, but it can be hard to tell from photo's. The absence of the bolt confirms it.

That's a plain bearing centre - definately not RB25DET.

It looks like a plain bearing centre, which would be early VG30DET, but could be mistaken and would need a picture showing the opposite face to that in the first photo to confirm. Edit: plain bearing turbo's were also used on HR31 Skyline's and Cefiro's, not to mention Z31 turbo, VLT, 280ZXT and other's i've probably forgotten...........