SteveL

No, the nylon bush is 'inside' the gearbox below/on the other side of the ball joint in the photo. You can see the circlip that needs to be removed in that photo tho. Once you get that out the shifter just lifts straight out and you should be able to see whether the tip bush is intact or not. If you need it the bush PN is 32861-H7301

From your description it's most likely the nylon bush at the tip of the shifter (inside the gearbox) has disintegrated. You need to take the shifter out either by removing the circlip under the rubber boot, or by unbolting (6 bolts) the top cover and removing the shifter with the cover. Circlip is probably the most direct, but can be a bastard without the right tools. Once out, there should be a small plastic bush at the tip of the shifter - I'm guessing in your case it'll be gone (inside the gearbox, but don't get too concerned). It's only a few $$$ from Nissan, and is common to local R31 Skyline gearboxes. If that's not the problem, other possilities are things like selector roll pins, but that gets complicated (gearbox out).

If there's another car in the photo, you shouldn't get a ticket. If you believe there was (another car) then it might be worth paying to view the photo.

Unfortunately it does happen, whether it's supposedly normal practice or not. Totally at the discretion of the enforcement office. My wife has a ticket to prove it, but fortunately she got off as it was a first offence and we wrote them a letter explaining the situation.

If your asking whether they can book cars travelling in the opposite direction then the answer is yes. The question is whether there were any other cars travelling in either direction at the time the flash went off. Theoretically they are supposed to ditch the image if there are 2 or more cars in the photo. Might be worth paying to see the photo if you think that is the case.....assuming you get an infringement notice.

They must have come down in price since then, I paid $70 earlier this year.

They don't sell a kit as such, the belt and bearings are all sold separately but if you order them together I suppose that's a kit of sorts You'd be best to buy the bearings from a local bearing specialist as it will be a LOT cheaper than going through Nissan. I paid $100 total for both bearings through a local supplier and the belt is about $70 from Nissan (trade....maybe $80 retail). There was a thread on here that had the PN's for the bearings so do a search as a starting point.

The Thread Doctor - 0419 507 633

They're available through the local ARC distributor: http://www.accessauto.com.au/store/page.pl?id=676

That's the PN for an R32 GTR AFM. Edit: as to what they are worth, assuming they are used probably $100-$150 for the pair .

Probably best to look at the Nissan FAST software, which allows you to track down parts for a specific VIN and includes exploded diagrams. Also gives specific part numbers, which is very useful when dealing with Nissan parts people.

Let's save everyone a lot of hastle and angst. Ardnin (or rather his mate) is clearly after a VG30DET turbo, which is roughly the equivalent of an RB25DET turbo. Your VG30DETT turbo (notice the extra 'T') is roughly the equivalent to an (ie one) RB26DETT turbo. Bolting a single VG30DETT turbo to an RB20DET is, in my experience, not generally regarded as an 'upgrade', not to mention the fact that it would be difficult to do since it has a smaller exhaust manifold attachment flange than the stock RB20DET turbo, which is why a VG30DET turbo is needed because it more or less bolts straight up.

Depends on what you mean by 'fit'. It's certainly not a bolt in proposition, but with enough time and $$ anything can be done. One of these has been shoe-horned into a 240Z. One problem is that there are no manual gearboxes that bolt straight up, so an adaptor plate would be required. Of course, doesn't matter if you stick with the auto.

I think GT-SS is good for something like 300+ps, which I think would be closer to the N1's, but I don't claim to be an expert on these.

In that photo, the number '14411-AA403' is the part number for an R34 GTR V-spec II turbo. Generally 'genuine' Garrett turbo's have the correct restrictor built into the cartridge (centre) as suggested, but Nissan OEM turbo's usually have the restrictor as part of the banjo bolts in the oil feed lines.

Obviously it's your choice, but pressure is not the only consideration. Most (if not all) the auto trans coolers I've seen have quite small fittings compared with dedicated engine oil coolers. It is important that the oil cooler does not act as a restrictor in the oil supply...

It's analagous to the reasons for running a thermostat in the radiator system.... Only RB26 runs an oil cooler standard (oil/water type). Thermostat is not just for cold start-ups - although that's clearly a good reason - as it's important to have some form of oil cooler to control oil temps when high temps might be expected, particularly on high output/modified engines.

Never use an auto transmission oil cooler (if that's what this is) as an engine oil cooler - they aren't designed to handle the same pressures or flow rates. Always use a thermostat as that will ensure the oil is maintained in the correct operating temp range. It's no different to running a thermostat in your radiator system (road going car).

Mat, if it helps any that's a Nismo twin plate clutch assembly shown in the photograph - the two parts shown make up the complete assembly.

Wouldn't get stressed about, might be simple as a database error which could have been fixed in a later version of FAST than we have access to. You need to go back and double check that number on the manufacturing ID plate attached to the firewall - it's usually blue - just to be sure.

Certainly would tie it down.

Actually the OP has it as 'VG30' and it is clear that some don't understand that there is quite a difference between a VG30DET turbo and a VG30DETT turbo. It is also clear from the first post that he was after a VG30DET turbo, but has actually bought a VG30DETT turbo.

It's not a VG30DET turbo.....they don't use a 2-bolt flange on the compressor inlet.

Some of it is: G = ?? (2 something-or-other; sometimes this indicates the plant In Japan where the car was made) GK = RB25DE or RB25DET B = 2WD (2 wheel drive) R = ?? T = GTT, GTV, GTXT, GT4, GT4/L, GTX4 F = ?? (5 something-or-other, I'd say 5 speed manual) R34 = well........ U = ?? D = ?? A = ?? - = not relevant K = ?? (some sort of option) J = ?? (some sort of option) B = ?? (some sort of option) - = not relevant I have a feeling someone else posted some info about what these codes mean. You need an English version of FAST or the someone that can interpret the Japanese version.

I can tell you that, but clutch and brake have separate pedal boxes since the R31 models. Anyway for 98-99 R34 GTT the pedal box PN's are (Nissan call them 'brackets'): Clutch (no pedal) - 46550-AA000 Brake (with pedal) - 46551-AA000 [don't ask me why one comes with and one without a pedal....I have NFI] For an early series 1 R33 GTS-t, the PN's are (same situation as described above): Clutch (no pedal) - 46550-21U00 Brake (with pedal) - 46551-70T00 There appear to be a number of running production changes shown in FAST for R33's, so an exact VIN would be needed to tie-down the correct PN's (eg cars with cruise control have a different PN for the brake pedal assy). Hope that helps