SteveL

I use the stuff sold by Nissan. Costs about $45 for 4L which you then dilute to a concentration of between 30% and 50% with water (I used distilled water). Might cost a bit more than others, but if it's what Nissan use........

Have a look here: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrne/vrne5n...A256FD300241BFF Inspection of the vehicle might be required, but you need to ring Vicroads to find out. If it is currently registered and you are the owner it also appears you won't need a RWC or pay stamp duty....well that's my interpretation, but best ring them to find out

I think the part number is 14030-75T01, FAST isn't very clear on this one.

Cavitation erosion. That face is adjacent to the tips of the impeller blades and the gap between them determines water pump efficiency - the greater the gap, the lower the pumping efficiency. It looks like about 2/3 of the face is in good nick so for stocker or mild performance engine it will be OK (I've seen a LOT worse in some L-series Nissan engines without noticable problems). OTOH if you are planning to build a high performance race engine I'd suggest finding another block.

There's no such thing that I'm aware of. Radiator hoses from Repco, etc, and maybe heater hoses, but there are a lot of little water/air hoses some of which you might be able replace using generic hose bought by the metre. The more specialised ones you'd have to get from Nissan (and they ain't cheap...).

I had mine done by a place in Knoxfield, they charge $1100 inc GST which is the cheapest I could find about 9 months ago.

Faulty voltage regulator is causing the battery to over-charge and the battery acid to boil. Regulator is built into to alternator, so it's either get the regulator replaced by an auto-elec or replace the alternator. Suggest getting it done soon and drive the car as little as possible until it's fixed as some electrical components may not take kindly to seeing 18V+. Make sure you wash away any acid that may have leaked from the battery with plenty of water.

To me it sounds like your describing the starter motor...the alternator should be turning with the engine running, but the starter shouldn't.

Sounds like a faulty ABS solenoid. Disconnect the electrical plugs to the unit and check for corrosion. If that doesn't fix it most likely your up for a replacement unit as parts aren't sold separately.

I'd be interested to know how this was done.....the VG30DETT 5-speed has some design features that make it _very_ difficult to fit to any vehicle other than a Z32. For example the starter motor mount is unique and would definately require considerable massageing of an R31 firewall and trans tunnel to make it fit. Not saying it can't be done, just curious to know how.

You may be right, but i've discussed the issue of pod filters with Vicroads engineers (NOT the drones on the desk, but one of their assessment engineers). According to that engineer Vicroads don't care about pod filters because they don't affect the 'engineering of the car'. I suspect the same applies to an aftermarket FMIC. But there's no doubt that the EPA would be veryinterested, because you are only allowed one intake mod...so pod or FMIC, but not both. It's been a while since I had a roadworthy done, but I suspect that unless the inspection requires the inspector to look for these mods, I doubt he will care.

It should pull straight out of the housing with the caps removed. Sometimes the shims can be tight and that makes things a bit more difficult, but in those cases tapping on the side of the crownwheel (ie opposite side to teeth face) with a rubber or plastic mallet will usually free it up. The parts you mention that are loose are the spacers and shims for setting up CWP relationship. Datsqik is on the money - make sure you mark everything and keep it all in the same relationship for re-assembly. If your changing the centre and/or the CWP the shims will almost certainly need changing, but it's rare for the bearings to give trouble (mind you, if it were me and I was changing the centre and CWP for something new, I'd have a tendency to change the bearings - esp if this was for a high HP app). I'm probably seeing things, but that's not sealant I'm seeing around the bearing bolt holes, is it ??

As Roy says there are 7 wires in the resistior pack plug. In the case of the R32 GTR resistor pack, one wire is white, the other 6 are black. The white wire is connected to the battery +ve terminal, so carries +12V. Inside the resistor pack the white is connected to one end of each of the 6 resistors, the opposite end of the resistors is connected to one each of the black wires. Each of the black wires connects to one terminal of each of the injectors. The other injector terminals are connected to the ECU. The ECU fires the injectors by intermittently earthing the injector terminal connected to it.....current flows, etc, etc. In the case of engine control systems that don't use a resistor pack (GTSt's, etc), there would still be 6 wires connected to one terminal of each injector for +12V feed, but at some stage in the loom they would all become connected in common down to a single wire to the battery. It would probably be a case of some wire tracing to track that join, although I have seen an RB20DET (red top from memory) that had a small 'sub' loom for the injectors (sort of like the sub loom for the coil packs). Don't know about RB25's.

I don't have any RB20DET injectors...sorry. The injectors always see the same voltage...it is the current drawn by the injectors that will be different - but I'm no electronics tech. The way I understand it is this....injectors with low resistance (2-3 ohms) are used where fine control is required because they have opening/closing times which can be tightly controlled. OTOH high resistance injectors do not have the fine control capability, but are by far the most commonly used (so might be cost issues, etc). The crucial thing is that the injector drivers in the ECU will be 'matched' to the injectors, so if you are going to use GTR injectors (low resistance) with an RB20DET ECU designed to be used with high-resistance injectors I would have a tendency to add a sufficient resistor value in parrallel with each injector to more-or-less match what the ECU would normally expect to 'see'. I doubt that you need to get things 'exact', butmy understanding is injector current has a crucial effect on injector life as it effects injector heating. Aftermarket ECU's (eg Motec) have more complex injector drivers which can vary injector current via software settings, so they can cope with a range of injector resistances.

I've just measured the resistors in the resistor pack in my R32 GTR....each has a resistance of 5.5 ohms. I also measured the L-jet resistor pack that I have, which is either from an r30 or a 280ZX (I can't remember, but it doesn't matter as they use the sam injector system, more or less)...each resistor also has a resistance of 5.5 ohms. So using an R30/280ZX resistor pack is an option, although as I said the connector is different.

I have one from an R30 lying around, I believe it is the same resistance as the GTR type and will try to check if I get the chance. The conector is different tho. I've offered it to people looking for resistor packs, but they seem to want the specific type. In the past I've also made up resistor packs for injectors using readily available heavy duty items from Jaycar (they come built into a heat sink). Still got some somewhere.

It's bolted to a bracket underneath the boost solenoid which is on the drivers side inner guard of the engine bay. If it;s any help the part number is: 22698-05U10

I'm no mod, but read the rules...no ebay links. How can you suggest these are 'bargain prices' for items that are on auction and you actually have no prices ??

Assuming the gearshift is not 'wobbly' at other times, you should check gearbox mount and all bolts, plus it wouldn't hurt to have a look at the engine mounts and bolts.

This is pretty much correct....the ECU needs a unique way to identify each cylinder to work out the firing order and the different width windows for the individual cylinders provides that mechanism, but one edge of the window also provides an accurate position for TDC of the associated cylinder. Once the order is identified and TDC set, it is just a matter of the ECU using the 1deg outer slots to calculate ign firing point. In fact the ECU also calculates the ign timing to fractions of a degree using an algorithm that relies on the fixed angular position of the 1 degree slots. This feature goes back to the original ECCS design used on the L28ET in the 280ZXT, although that used a slotted disk attached to the crankshaft with reluctor pick-up, not optical as used in RBxx engines. In compasrison, the RB30 CAS has fixed width windows for the CAS cylinder identifier slots.....it has a distributor to take care of the firing order, so the ECU doesn't 'need to know'.

Water Pump - 21010-58S25 Oil Pump - 15010-05U12 I believe the R33 GTR oil pump requires crank mods to fit.

LOL, we were all caught....ahh well

Your first post says 158psi on all cylinders but now 100psi on one......this is the problem with compression tests, you can get a fair degree of variation. DON'T rely on the compression test, get a proper leak-down test done before making any decisions. You also say the car is running 'perfectly' and if that's the case I'd just live with it, plus that doesn't fit with the 100psi result on one cylinder. If what you have is indeed excessive blowby (compression leak past the rings) then a leak-down test will reveal all. From your decription tho, the problem you may have is oil surge possibly due to excessive oil in the cam area, which might be solved either by a larger/better catch can arrangement or by changing the restrictors in the block. I'd try the former solution first.

E-mail about these...

The model is 'C210' in Nissan speak.