SteveL

GTSt's must be different to GTR's.........with GTR's there's no need to remove the fan. GTR's have a removable 'section' at the bottom of the fan shroud which unclips and once that's taken off the radiator can be lifted out with the shroud attached and it clears the fan.

VL Commode has 2 pumps....an in tank 'lift' pump plus an external high pressure pump, but R32, R33's etc only have one.

Genuine R32 GTR pump is close to 3 times that ....suggest you re-check your price with Nissan (I have...and I get these for trade). R33 GTR pump is around that price, BUT it doesn't fit R32 GTR without mods which are beyond the capabilities of most. Could be fitted without the mods but would risk a leak.... As for using the starter motor...I don't agree with such dodges, but am not going to argue about it...to each there own. At the end of the day you've still got to do it up again.....

genuine water pump is $300+ from Nissan, timing belt is around $90. Best do both at the same time and unless you know what your doing it would be better to have it done or at least get some help from someone that does (eg crank pulley bolt is done up to around 250ftlb's and getting it undone is a bitch even with the right tools). Other belts can be bought aftermarket (Burson's etc), probably $15-$20 each. There's only one fuel pump - in the tank

Radiator can be removed without touching the aircon system - unless you have something unusual (ie not stock).

I'll buy the cam gears for $200 if your separating

It's an oil drain pipe taking excess oil from the head back to the sump. BTW it's steel not copper

Your first picture shows the end (or cover) plate held by 5 bolts 'inside' the bell housing. Between it and the bell housing there's a gasket. If you took that plate off and turned it around you'd see an oil seal which seals the input shaft (the splined shaft poking out that engages the clutch. Unless there's obvious oil leaking I'd leave it alone. There's an oil seal where the the tailshaft fits in the back if the gearbox....I wouldn't say it was 'huge'.

It's fine and if he removes the cover to replace the seal he'll almost certainly break the gasket and be up for more than just the seal. Gasket is $25-$30 from memory (trade). But there's no oil leak and it's all dry as far as I can see. Some dust from clutch is normal and it inevitably gets into the ribbing area. I've worked on quite a few of these gearboxes and that ones quite clean....usually the end plate is also covered in clutch dust, in fact the whole inside of the bell housing. OTOH if there's any concern give the inside of the bell housing a good clean with de-greaser and a brush, remove the end plate and replace the seal+gasket and also replace the tail shaft seal.

I just fitted a pair of Pioneer 6" 3-ways and that's pretty much it, but I didn't have to remove the plastic wiper cover on my R32 GTR it just came away with the shelf cover as did the standard speaker covers. To get the bottom part of the seat out you just pull up hard at the front on each side to release the clips. The speakers I bought bolted straight into the existing speaker holes using the hardware supplied with the speakers...a very easy job. It would be difficult to fit 6x9's without hacking the metal shelf...not recommended. But one way around that problem would be to get a pair of plastic speaker spacers that would screw to the shelf trim in place of the origonal speaker grills (these just unscrew on a GTR). Jaycar sell these: http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?...eMax=&SUBCATID=

Does the shell have compliance or even better previous Australian reg history ??

Looks fine....I wouldn't worry about it. More important to drain the oil and check the magnet. Also make sure you can get all gears and it doesn't make any strange noises when turning the input shaft by hand in each gear.

3.1 is the body type. 2K = 2 door coupe, W = wagon, 4S = 4 door sedan Instead of entering the VIN number, just type the series in the 'Model Series' field (eg R33). That will allow you see all the available model variations in the drop down fields.

I assume you mean Z32 300ZX ??....if so the answer is no. Z32 bellhousing bolt pattern is different for a start plus the starter motor is 'reversed' (ie points to the back of the car, not the front). If that's not enough the shifter arrangement is very different between the two - Z32 uses a 'remote' shifter which is not directly attached to the gearbox (there's an external linkage rod arrangement). The good news is the ratios are the same

Realistically it's a 'sump off' job because the front of the sump bolts to the bottom face of the oil pump, plus all the cam belt covers, cam belt, crank pulley, etc have to come off. IMHO, best done with the engine out. It's probably possible to do it with the engine in, but would be difficult and the risk of damaging things is much greater.

Hard to say without knowing the 'true' condition - amount of bog, etc. IMHO 2+2's aren't worth a whole lot, but it's very much enthusiast driven and you might get someone that will pay a lot. Engineers certificate is required under Vicroads rules - larger capacity/power + not an engine type sold in that model. You might 'get away with it', although someone is likely to notice during r/worthy and/or Vicroads inspection. If you did manage to get it on the road, don't ever have an accident...... A problem with the RB30 conversion into Z is that the sump configuration is wrong, and it won't just 'bolt in'. Requires a custom sump job or get a sump and pick-up from a 200ZR (rare).

They are the same. Any Nissan dealer will (or should) have them in stock. I know F/tree Gully Nissan usually has them. Worth phoning first. Around $3 each.

Not a valid VIN number as far as FAST is concerned....can you re-check ?

Does anyone know the standard (new) plate thickness on one of these clutches ?? also the minimum thickness allowed ?? TIA

There's a guy selling what you want here: http://pforums.company-hosting.com/forums/....php?t=67189383 all brand new.

http://pforums.company-hosting.com/forums/....php?t=67190061

As strange as it seems stock RB30 pistons have 4 valve reliefs (cut-outs) in the head of the pistons. I have a set of stock factory RB30 pistons and they have '67S2' stamped in the crown - so the pistons geordie has are also stock.

It's not the amount of lift necessarily but the ramp rate.

That's pretty much it. There are some other consequences like increased valve opening rates that can cause problems with stock springs.

It's difficult to explain in words and I suspect a google search will reveal much, but FWIW: - re-grinding stock cams to increase lift involves reduction of the base-circle diameter while maintaining as much of the original lobe height as possible. The base circle of a cam lobe is basically the diameter of the cam measured at a point 90 degrees to the lobe itself. Reducing the base circle means that, on RB26 engines, increased shim thickness must be used to restore factory clearances. With 24 valves this can get expensive - the shims vary in price between $15 and $25 each. Also, depending on how much is removed from the cam, it's possible that shims of sufficient thickness may be unavailable (max factory shim thickness is 3mm). - using a 'billet' cam can help overcome the reduction in base circle. A billet cam is a 'raw' cam with large, as cast lobes. Using a billet the stock base circle can be acheived (more-or-less) while grinding the lobe for increased lift. Billet cams are expensive and more expensive to grind. I don't know about RB billets, but an L-series billet (L24/26/28) was around $300 about 5 years ago - and that only has 12 lobes (and only 1 per engine !!). - welding a cam to give more grinding surface is sort of a psuedo-billet arrangement. Personally I'd steer clear - welding cast iron is frought with danger even when done by the skilled. Warping is a major problem in itself.