SteveL

32264r is the second gear bearing and it's a needle roller bearing, not a roller bearing of the type that is shown in your photo (well, what's left of one, anyway....). A roller bearing will be one of the shaft support bearings. Off-hand I can't remember which one as its been awhile since I had one of those GB's apart. To be honest I'd have to say that you don't seem to know much about what your doing......by all means I encourage people to have a go for themselves, but when it gets to the stage that your doing the type of damage shown in the photo, you should seriously think about finding someone with some experience.

You broke the bearing cage......which means you broke the bearing. Leaving aside the question of how you managed to do that, what other damage have you done ?? Actually no, don't answer that, I don't really want to know. In any event, that's a roller bearing and I have the feeling the input bearing is a ball type. Perhaps it's the countershaft bearing you need. The bearing races will have numbers etched on the side that can be used to identify the exact type.

Maybe I've got this wrong (hope so), but are you selling the girdles separately from the block(s) they originally came with ??

Actually skins is correct. Nissan's with the diversity aerial system have one aerial embedded in the front windscreen, but also use the rear window defogger grid as the second aerial. That box is a filter, which separates the power supply to the rear defogger from the aerial signal.

Dash, etc has to be removed to get to the heater assembly and the core itself BUT before going to all the trouble you should check that coolant is flowing through the core (ie check whether it's blocked, which usually happens because the coolant hasn't been maintained correctly). To do that you need to disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall and then use a garden hose (preferably with some sort of pressure attachment) to check that water flows through the core - effectively you'll be flushing the core (Note: you'll have to refill and bleed the cooling system after doing this). If water flows freely, the core is not the problem. Of course, this all assumes the core isn't leaking, but if that were the case, you'd notice the loss of coolant plus there'd be a musty smell inside the car and the carpet would be wet (also, even if that were the case, the heater should still actually work....). It's also possible the heater isn't working because one or more of the airflow control motors has failed (GTS4 has similar digital climate system to GTR, as I understand it). Youy should also error check the system......do a search, someone will have described how to do it previously.

No. Yoke is different and so is the length, I believe.

Show me a 'pro' that uses an immersion ultrasonic cleaner to 'clean' fuel injectors and I'll show you a 'pro' to run a mile from. Using that type of cleaner WILL result in damage to the injector pintle valve (it's a type of wear damage and the technical term is false brinelling) A 'pro' that knows what he is doing will use a dedicated injector cleaning bench in which a special cleaning fluid is passed through the injector as it is cycled using a dedicated controller (ie very similar to the job the engine ECU does). At no time is the injector body immersed in the fluid.

Super Audio CD: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Super_Audio_CD See here for various model PS3 capabilities: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation_3

This is wrong. ALL PS3 models can play B/Ray, DVD and CD's. 40GB won't play SACD.

It's very difficult to be absolutely sure without VIN's but FAST suggests the top tank and seal should be the same. DISCLAIMER - use this info at your own risk (IOW don't blame me if it's wrong).

I doubt it, but give these guys a call and they'll tell you for sure one way or the other: http://www.injectronics.com.au/index.php?o...ge&Itemid=1 Also, all R32 RB20DE, RB20DET, RB25DE and RB26DETT engines use the same ignitor.

From memory, the design of the journal on RB's is such that the radius is maintained during grinding (for factory undersize bearings). In any event, the amount removed is relatively small but if your concerned you should specify that the original radius is maintained. Magnaflux is actually a proprietary name of a company that manufactures NDT equipment, which also includes mag particle. Experience is a big part of successful NDI, so if your company has done lot's of crankshafts that's fine, otherwise I'd find someone that has.

Not sure what you mean by 'move'.....RB crank journals have generous radii and should be left as they are. Ideally the radii should be polished (not linished, but actually polished), however most places don't have the capability. Polishing reduces the potential for crack initiation. For a performance engine there are a couple of other things that should be done IMHO: - the crank should be properly crack tested. When I say 'properly' I mean by an organisation certified by a National authority for the purpose. In Australia the recognised authority is the Australian Institute for Non-destructive Testing (AINDT) or, for aviation, (non-military) the Civil Aviation Safety Authority (CASA). [for the sake of completeness, in terms of military NDT, the controlling authority is NDTSL at Amberley AFB in Qld]. Most automotive engine specialist in Australia will do crack testing, but generally aren't certified for the purpose, which means that they basically just grab a can of red dye penetrant and go from there. OTOH, anyone undertaking work on aviation components is required to be certified and regularly checked for compliance inc there equipment. That's why I recommend anyone having critical engine components inspected should have the work done by an aviation NDT specialist (I use a firm out at Moorabbin airport in Melbourne; places like Bankstown in Sydney would have similar). Components like crankshafts and rods should be checked using a magnetic particle bench (MPI in NDT speak). Even new components should be inspected, AFAIC. Unfortunately I can't help with contacts in Denmark. - When the block mains are being measured as I've described above, that should be done using all the components you plan to use at final assembly. That is, the caps should be torqued to spec using the mains bolts or studs you are going to use. Same for the rods. Again, your engine builder should be aware. Personally I would also consider having the crank nitrided, but not essential. On the plus side, nitriding assists with wear and crack initiation resistance, but the downside is that it inevitably introduces distoration (bending) due to the combination of high surface stresses and the complex crankshaft shape, which can be difficult and expensive to remove (it's a common process, I know, but I'm just saying it can be expensive to get it right.....the last crank I had done cost $800 just for the nitriding and that was fair few years ago now).

There's still a misunderstanding here.....a crank isn't straightened by grinding the journals. It's straightened by, quite literally, belting the crap out of it using a heavy hammer and a (very) blunt chisel-like tool at specific locations. It sounds crude....and it is....but it still has to be done by a specialist, with a lot of experience. Once the crank is straight, the journals are ground to size. If the crank journals are close to standard size and not badly scored or out-of-round then it should not be necessary to go further than one size under standard. These cranks are induction hardened and the case is quite deep. Assuming the worst case and you have go to the second undersize, there still will be no problem in terms of case depth. Actually, if this is to be a high performance engine you should use a new crank......the journal grinding process actually reduces the fatigue life of the crank by about 50% (generally speaking)......but don't get too concerned, these components have a high design safety factor. In terms of the block mains tunnel, for a performance engine these should be checked for alignment, size and ovality. All of what I have described is pretty much standard procedure for a performance engine and, really, an engine specialist shouldn't need to be told. Run-out is half of the full scale deflection taken at the centre main. Yours is pretty good in that case.

In the interest of international co-operation I dug out my old RB30 specs manual. It turns out that the acceptable run-out for an RB30 crank is 0.1mm (0.004"), so your crank is fine. In terms of mains sizing, Nissan specify a main bearing clearance of 0.020-0.047mm (0.0008-0.0019") with a max wear limit of 0.090mm (0.0035"). Unless you have access to accurate bore gauges, I'd suggest you take the block and crank to a engine machining specialist, along with the under-size bearings you are planning to use. They will (or should) assemble the bearings to the block with the caps torqued up to spec, and then accurately measure the internal diameter of each main bearing. Once they have also accurately measured the crank journals, it's a simple calculation to work out how much needs to be ground from each journal to achieve the correct running clearance (see above). Ditto for the con-rod bearings, although the clearance in that case is 0.011-0.035mm (0.0004-0.0014") with the wear limit the same as the mains.

Forget it mate, this guy was paid for this ABS unit months ago and still hasn't delivered

I don't have any data for RB30, but for an RB26 the max specified run-out is 0.05mm (0.002"). I'd say RB30 is likely to be the same, so you are within acceptable limits for factory specs (a full race engine should actually have these specs 'tightened' a little). I'm assuming here you've (correctly) taken half of the full needle deflection on your dial gauge as the run-out measurement for your crank..... Also, you have a fundamental mis-understanding of the relationship between run-out and main bearing sizes (hint - think about what would happen to run-out if you grind the same amount of each main journal). Suffice it to say that run-out is a measure of how bent a crank is. If it's outside spec you either toss it and get another one, or get it straightened by a specialist. Once it's straightened (there will always be some run-out), you measure the journals and determine the mains size required (ignoring the run-out). Actually I'd just get the specialist to do the whole lot. Stock Nissan cranks are not nitrided.

Looking at those photos, if this were my car I'd be getting to him to strip the panit off most of the area shown in those photo's because I can see paint bubbling and rust spots well away from the obvious rust areas near the shock mounts. Also the big rust areas could be associated with cracking of the shock tower probably caused by load transfer from the strut brace. Hopefully the repairer knows what he's doing.

They do have restrictors (as do BB turbo's, but a different size). Oil pressure at the turbo's is probably not very much.

I'm curious to know how the in-line filter works given there's no pump in these gb's. Depending on how this works it might be a factor. Engine boost should not pressurise the gearbox (in a stock gearbox setup) You may have a blocked gearbox vent, which is roughly in the middle of the extension housing, at the top.

R33 GTR = 4.1 R33 GTSt auto = 4.36 R33 GTSt manual = 4.1

They both use R200 diffs, meaning they have a 200mm diameter crown wheel (the diff 'strength' is more-or-less the same). Major difference is that the GTSt uses a viscous LSD centre, while the GTR LSD is mechanical (clutch pack). R33 GTR LSD is also of the active type (electronically controlled). Other differences are in the tailshaft and half-shaft attachments, so R33 GTR diff won't just 'bolt in' without changes.

#1 = supply (to) #2 = return (from)

Holder for the emergency flare.

Never use sealants where a gasket should be, except as a last resort. This is especially important with something like this oil pump. Think about what happens when you tighten the bolts....the sealant gets squeezed out of the joint face and some of it is squeezed out into the oil passages. How much is dependent on how heavy handed you are, but it can affect oil flow in bad cases. There's a reason Nissan used a gasket.