SteveL

Probably the circuit breaker. Basically an automatically resettable fuse, it limits current in the power window circuit when the windows reach full travel so that the main fuse(s) don't blow. Sounds like yours might have called it a day. It's probably common to many Nissan cars with power windows and it should have the part number on it somewhere so shouldn't be hard track one down.

No such thing. The gasket for the standard pump can be used with the N1 pump.

You've answered your own question......a viscous LSD centre is a sealed unit and the oil used in that type of diff only lubricates the bearings and gears and that's why an ordinary non-LSD diff oil will be fine in your case (as it will be for all viscous LSD diffs). Using an LSD oil would also be fine, but not necessary. The CWP gears in diffs are of the hypoid type, so using a specific diff oil is essential (GL5, I believe). In terms of brands, I've used Penrite mineral oils for, literally, decades without a single problem, but other name brands like Castrol, etc, will also be fine. If spending lots of $$ on 'exotic' brands makes you feel better then go for it, but, personally, I'm not convinced that oil 'quality' is directly proportional to the amount you spend. In terms of synthetics, I've had some discussions with Penrite techs (not salesmen) and, generally, synthetics are recommended for high load/temperature operation (eg racing applications, high HP street, etc).

They are both R200 diffs so, theoretically, yes. There may be at least one problem area though. S15 diff has an ABS sensor which senses pinion shaft rotation. The sensor itself is attached to the nose of the diff just behind the tailshaft attachment flange. OTOH GTS4 uses ABS sensors attached to the diff output shafts. The stock S15 pinion may be modified to accommodate the sensor, but I've never compared with the GTS4 pinion so can't be sure.

Definitely R32 with hydraulic HICAS, but no ABS sensors, so not GTS4 or GTR.

There are 2 things that indicate that what you have is probably an R32 GTR gearbox: - it has a push type clutch mechanism - it doesn't have the bellhousing vents used on R33 GTR gearboxes Of course it's possible the bellhousing, etc, has been changed for the R32 type.

The G-sensor detects fore/aft accel/decel as well as lateral (sideways) accel, and ATTESA also uses inputs from the ABS sensors on each wheel to determine whether drive to the front wheels needs to be engaged. So under hard acceleration if rear wheel spin (slip) is detected, the front wheels will be engaged to some extent determined by the ATTESA controller. For RWD only, a controller is probably the simplest method since it's just a case of plug-and-play. R32/R33 GTR's use 4.1 diff ratio, R32 GTS4 uses something like 4.3.

No, 'constant' = all the time, but GTS4 and GTR are RWD cars which have the capability of also applying drive to the front wheels when dictated by the ATTESA controller using input from certain sensors (eg G-sensor). Aftermarket controllers over-ride the sensors and allow application of 100% drive to the front wheels (ie 'constant' 4WD), but that is not 'normal'.

More-or-less There is also a 2WD version.

1. Experience 2. It has the 'fat' centre bearing area typical of a BB turbo 3. Despite all the glad wrap, I can see the 10mm hex head bolt (6mm thread) next to one of the water fitting banjo, which I've only ever seen on Nissan turbo's with a BB centre. Looking at the amount of corrosion and general poor condition of the external surfaces, I'd also say it's probably done a lot of k's or had a hard life.

OK, you've waited long enough.....sorry There IS a gearbox that was used with VG series engines that is very similar to the RB25DET gearbox, with the only real difference being the bell-housing. A mate has one behind a VG30DET in a 260Z. I believe the gearbox was used behind VG33, which was the engine in local spec Navara (I think around mid 90's ??) Anyway that's what I think your after, but don't expect it to be cheap.

Looks like it.

Something is seriously wrong here and your mate shouldn't drive the car or even run the engine until it's been properly investigated. From your description it sounds as if the harmonic balancer hasn't been tensioned correctly or something has been mis-assembled in that area. If it were me I'd be taking the harmonic balancer off, plus all the timing covers and have close look at everything. Certainly if the belt has been rubbing on the covers (or anything else) you should be inspecting it for damage and possibly even replacing it entirely. Also find another mechanic......

This is a Z32 gearbox, you can see what I mean about the shifter:

There are a number of major differences, although the gears themselves are very similar: - bellhousing is different in terms of bolt pattern. Also the starter motor bolts to the side of the bellhousing and the starter body faces toward the rear of the car. - Z32 uses a 'remote shift' arrangement where the gear lever (shifter) isn't attached directly to the gearbox. There's a rod arrangement connecting the gear lever to the gearbox. - extension housing is different because the gear lever doesn't mount to it, plus it's a bit shorter.

Since the problem is mostly occurring with inlet manifold under vac conditions, this suggests the problem is not turbo related. Factory oil returns are cast into the head/block so there is no return line as such unless something something extra has been added by yourself or others. I really doubt this is your problem, as valve seals in good condition should be able to cope. Moreover, you should see oil smoke throughout the rev range (more-or-less) if the head was being 'flooded' with oil. Two engines with the same problem is bad luck, but quite possible. These cars/engines can sit around for quite awhile in Japan leading to hardened/failed valve seals (and other rubber components). One possibility - have you checked the PCV system is operating correctly ?? Sometimes a clogged/blocked PCV can result in a pressurised block/head leading to leaking seals, etc, although usually the oil dipstick will start popping out before any sort of major seal failure occurs.

That's the PCV valve and the PN you need is 11812-41B00

The pump is in the transfer case and only circulates oil (ATF) within the transfer case. From your description there's no ATF mixed with the gearbox oil + the ATF level in the transfer case is correct, so I'd suggest that eliminates that transfer case pump as problem area. 1.4lts is a lot of oil, but it is assumed that the correct amount of gearbox oil was present in the first place (note: 2 years is a long time.....gearbox, etc oil levels should be checked at least once a year, but more often if your doing any trackwork with the car). In any event, at this stage I'd still suggest refilling to the correct level and then simply drive it to see what happens.

These symptoms are typical of valve guide seal failure - oil seeping past worn seals when engine is left unstarted for awhile + oil being sucked past worn seals when inlet system is under high vacuum (throttle closed @ idle or under deceleration conditions). The situation apparently improving with increased engine running time may simply be due to expansion of metallic components changing running clearances. One of the 'old ways' to 'fix' an oil burner was to try a higher viscosity oil. I had some success reducing oil burning on big 6's and V8's using Penrite HPR50, but i wouldn't recommend you try that with your engine. However you guys in the US and Canada tend to run quite thin oils, so trying a higher viscosity oil might be worth a try. That said, even if using a different oil helps with your problem it is, at best, a stop gap measure and you really should be looking at replacing the valve guide seals.

FAST says they are the same (R32 GTR....I'd be surprised if R33,R34 weren't the same but haven't checked)

There are 2 breather tubes, one for the gearbox and one for the transfer case. The transfer case uses (or should use) ATF, which is reddish in colour and has a distinct smell. From your description the fluid is definitely coming from at least one of the breathers, but if the gearbox is low in fluid it might be that the overflow is coming from the transfer case. Of course the car must be level when you check gearbox, etc. Suggest you check that fluid levels are correct, thoroughly degrease the area, drive the car normally for awhile and recheck for leaks/overflow.

As far as I'm aware R33 GTSt uses viscous LSD, so any ordinary name brand non-LSD diff oil of the recommended viscosity range will be fine. Castrol Syntrax will be OK. Usually there's a sticker on Nissan diffs saying whether LSD oil is required, but, if your not sure, use an LSD oil. It costs roughly the same and using it won't matter at all in a non-LSD diff.

As far as I'm aware R33 GTR uses 4 channel ABS like R32 (as does R34 GTR). The main difference between R32 GTR and R33 is the active LSD. In fact I just checked in FAST and there's no sensor in the nose of the diff like found in S15.

Mine does full sequential and, yes the windows vary in width. I had a brief glance at the links, but, frankly, as soon as I saw one of them was Hybridz I didn't bother with it much.

Mate this is rubbish.....far more likely to be crap engine management/poor set up. The Nissan CAS is very reliable. I've been running a (highly) modified FJ20 optical ECU with 6 cylinder components on an L28 for (far) more than a decade. I've never had a single problem with it. The difference is I run an engine management system from arguably one of the best manufacturer's in the world.....MOTEC. It has no problem at all with either the cylinder or timing indexes of the optical wheel at any rpm.