SteveL

S15 uses R200 rear diff like GTR, GTSt etc. One big difference is that the S15 uses a single sensor on the pinion for rear ABS.....the rotor is mounted on the pinion shaft and the pick-up is mounted on the nose of the diff, just behind the tailshaft attachment. Essentially the S15 ABS is a three channel system, while GTR is 4 channel (GTR has individual sensors for each wheel). What this means is that you can't just bolt a GTR diff into an S15 without disabling the ABS. It may be that a GTR CWP will fit an S15 diff housing but the GTR pinion probably won't have the ability to mount the S15 ABS rotor (although it might be possible to modify the pinion to do so).

Possibly interested in the plenum and TB's + attachments, but I think you should put up prices per the forum rules.

There might be something out there, but I'm not aware of it. The closest you'll get in terms of that sort of ratio for both front and rear diffs is from R34 GTR, which is around 3.6 from memory. That's in terms of reasonably readily available, there also might be something aftermarket, of course.

Rear diff is R200, front diff is F160.

It means there's a problem with the knock sensor circuit. The sensor itself may have failed or become disconnected for some reason (eg cut wire or simply a connector has come off). In the first instance you need to find the sensor and check all the wiring and connectors back to the ecu. If that all checks out, the next thing is to check the sensor itself. Usually replacing with a known good one is the best way to go.

Must have been changed at some stage (or the engine was actually NA......wouldn't be the first time). I've got both types and the turbo pump is definitely designed to flow more oil.

PM re: G sensor, sill panel and other bits

The 30ET oil pump has increased flow rate compared to the NA version. From memory, the NA pump gears are of the order of 9 or 10mm wide compared with the turbo version, which are 11 or 12mm wide or so. You should use a 30ET pump.

PM

There are difference depending on year of manufacture. Might not matter but don't know for sure.

Best post a pic of your gearbox. The shifter arrangement in a standard Z32TT gearbox is very different from the RB style. It's actually a remote shift mechanism and it certainly won't work with the stock RB shifter. Have you modified the Z32 shifter mechanism to suit a Skyline. Here's a pic of a stock Z32TT gearbox. You can see what I mean about the shifter mechanism:

I've been running a JB modified head on an L28 in the Z-car for longer than most here have had their licence. Actually, I've improved on his original design because the whole thing was a bit experimental and crude. It's all about uniform coolant flow and certainly will have little (more likely none) impact on any valve guide cracking (I have serious doubts about this being a common problem).

If the hydraulic system was working fine with the old clutch, then your problem is more than likely related to the installation of the new clutch itself. Of course that assumes that the hydraulic system is in good nick. I believe you need to use a different height thrust bearing carrier with some of these multi-plate clutches, so it might be related to that, but someone else should be able to confirm (also do a search). The clutch pedal 'feels' different on a GTR because it has vac assist when the engine is running in the same way as the brake system.

I can't help you but I'd be surprised if someone here didn't have this part. Might be worth asking on the traders forums if a private seller can't help. Another alternative is to get in touch with an import wrecker and there are quite a few in Oz. This one has been around awhile and ships OS, so is a good chance to have what you need: http://www.adelaidejap.com.au/adeljap/contactus I don't work for them, but have bought parts in the past. Good Luck

I assume by HICAS pump you actually mean ATTESA pump ?? (RH photo)

PM

Looks like a pull mechanism/slave cylinder to me.

In RB engines (and, generally, all engines with a block mounted thermostat) the thermostat directly controls water flow into the block (the lower rad hose is for cooled water after it has been through the radiator). The thermostat senses water temp in the block and allows cool(er) water into the block as temp rises.

Yes, you are. As long as the thermostat is working correctly and the rest of the cooling system is in good nick there is no problem.

No, but presumably your using the GTR slave and there might be differences in master cylinder bore diameter between the cef master and GTR master. However, that wouldn't stop the system from working completely and..... ....this suggests you have an air leak somewhere.

No, I don't work for them, and I only needed to ring one to find this out. Not because of you, but someone else I know who claimed they had to import the oil from Japan in the same way. Judging from the above, I'd say your attitude has a lot to do with your problems (and I'm not really THAT interested to continue with this....)

I thought about commenting on this thread over in the FS forums, but best to do it here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cv...-8-t261484.html Firstly, the asking price is very good and better than Nissan Oz could do (retail or trade), so go for it. However, it's not correct to say that Nissan 'don't want to know'. In fact, this oil is available in the Nissan warehouse in Western Australia and any dealer in Australia will get it in for you (if they act dumb or try to fob you off, then I suggest finding another dealer). Unlike other makes, Nissan Australia has a policy of supporting all the vehicles they make, including gray imports (try getting Honda Australia to import a part for one of their cars that wasn't officially sold here....).

The only adjustment is at the clutch pedal, specifically at the clutch master push-rod. That adjustment point is really only for clutch pedal free play. Similarly for the brake pedal.

To search for parts without a VIN simply type the series your interested in into the 'Model Series' field (see first post above), then hit return and wait. After awhile you should see that the 8 (ie 2 rows of 4) buttons immediately below the model series/Prod.M/Y fields become available to select. If you click on each in turn you'll see that they are now drop-down boxes, which allow you to select the various broad model options available for that series. For example, one drop-down will show all the engines available for a particular model series; another will show transmission options and another will show 2DR/4DR type, etc, etc. So in your case simply type in R34 to 'Model Series', press return, wait, then select RB26DETT engine, 2Dr, Hicas, etc, etc. You can then search for the parts as described above. Note that if Nissan made changes to parts within the model series (ie supercessions), when you eventually come to select the parts you are interested in, the FAST system will ask you to make a choice about the month and year of manufacture of R34. At that point you will have to make a bit of an educated guess about which way to jump, although the FAST system will also show you the supercessions.....if you know where to look.

Looks more like casting artifacts to me. I'm particularly suspicious of the crack theory when it would appear that the largest crack doesn't extend completely to the clutch fork hole (but that might be just the nature of the photo). If the bellhousing is so severely cracked to the extent that it affects clutch operation, you should be able to see the cracks open/close with operation of the clutch pedal. Before having anything welded, you should have the cracking confirmed by an NDT specialist using dye penetrant or possibly even eddy current testing. Aviation industry specialists qualified to ANDT and CASA requirements are the best to use for this.