SteveL

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Hold on a sec...you have $250 of mine on that turbo which I told you I would pick up this weekend...WTF !!!

Have you got any other pics ?? - That 'T' piece in the actuator line is characteristic of a VG30DET turbo. I know this 'cos I've got one in the garage, plus I've seen a lot of others and they all have this. The RB25DET turbs I've seen didn't.

Same thing. On RB20DET's there are two. They are screwed into the block just below the head gasket surface, 'underneath' the inlet manifold (so not easy to see). One is near the front of the block between cylinders 1/2, the other is at the back between 5/6. Not sure how to test them. There might be a resistance value, but can't help with that. Swapping with a known good one would be one way. But first thing to check would be the wiring - a connector may be loose or have come off.

Works fine for me: http://imflame.ricetek.net/~darkhalf/

It's been there for awhile....

Have a look at this: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrne/vrnint...en+documents%5D

PM

It's been a long time since I had one, but there were 2 model series of R30's sold in Oz - series 1 from 82 to 84 and series 2 from 84 to 86 (I think). Anyway, I think there were manifold changes - eg the idle control went from a screw on the TB to a separate bypass arrangment. I've got the parts microfiche somewhere so can check if you like. Oh, and 280zx uses the same basic manifold arrangment, and even the injectors are the same.

i/c please [email protected]

Which RB20 - R31, R32 ....?

OK.....so........where ???? .....give us actual names and addresses or at least a contact phone number so that we can get one of these bargains for ourselves...

We'll have to agree to disagree. I build these engines too, and the VLT r/bolts are definately an upgrade from the NA type. They even have a different PN...but apart from that, I can say the material is superior, having actually tested them in comparison. But as you say rods are identical. ARP don't make rod bolts for any RB engine. The closest thing they have is VG30DETT bolts. Of course, it's possible to ream out the bolt holes to accept something for another engine (eg we use chev bolts in 2L U series Nissan engines).

Still have a head there.....

RB30ET also uses upgraded rod bolts.

It's not true to say that a 15+ car doesn't need 'compliance' - what it doesn't need is a compliance plate, BUT it still has to 'comply' with the ADR's that were applicable in the year the car was built. In Vic an engineers inspection and certificate is required (approx $500) on top of the mods needed (intrusion bars, unleaded filler, seat belts, child anchor points, etc). Also Vicroads will want to inspect the car for themselves - costs nothing they can demand more work if not satisfied. A car with lots of mods might be given a bit more scrutiny....

Only the width (for higher flow @ same rpm) - ID is the same.

Don't need an adapter for the VLT pump - interchanges directly with the NA type.

I got my RB26 oil pump for free Actually, given Nissan's ridiculous prices on other parts, $633 doesn't seem all that bad.

I should also say that I remembered reading somewhere that the the RB26DETT crank nose is larger in diameter than the other RB engines. If this is correct, then the ID of the pump gear will also be larger. I can actually confirm this if you like as I have an RB26 oil pump on the bench, and RB30E one (buried somewhere)....let me know. As for the water pumps, don't know for sure, but it's possible the RB26 type would have a higher flow rate as it has to feed 2 turbos - but then again, the same thing could be achieved using a smaller diam pulley....

The difference is the gear width: RB30E - 10.8mm wide RB30ET - 13.4mm wide RB26DETT - haven't measured, but looks like about 15mm wide or so to the eye. Relief spring pressure may also be diff, but I can't say for sure.

PM re misc bits

I have a low k head (40k) from a stagea that I'm thinking of selling. I'm in Melbourne (FTG). [email protected]

Russ, Genuine gasket kits are available from: Lindtot Auto Group, (02) 9684 5777 ask for Tim McNally ....but they won't be cheap.

Stainless has superior high temp corrosion resistance to mild steel - no question. As to why people have had trouble with it, all I can say is that it is rare to find that the material itself is at fault.....other factors such as poor design or poor welding are more likely causes. But, without an understanding of the cause, to blame the material is wrong. MS is used because it is cheap, readily available and easy to work with. In this case, the cost diff between MS and SS is sufficiently small that I'm prepared to pay it for the extra benefit of having SS. Had the diff been greater the decision would not have been so simple. I think I'll leave it there, I also don't want to get into a sf over this and people can make up there own mind.