SteveL

That's admirable and in 95% of cases probably perfectly fine, but in this case the thickness of the gasket is important because it influences the end float of the countershaft of these gearboxes. There's a procedure for selecting the correct countershaft shim, which relies on the thickness of the gasket (amongst other things). Also the genuine gasket has extra sealer pre-bonded to the faces (you can see it as thick 'lines' running around the surface of the gasket). You need to add the cost of your sealer to the cost of your gasket paper. I'm not criticizing you - I make my own gaskets sometimes as well - I'm just saying that in this case at least it's not as clear cut as you make out.

Forget the V8. Bolt in a VG30DET (Cima, Leopard, etc). These engines produce 190kW bog stock with no intercooler, plus they are dirt cheap to buy. Z31's for Oz either came with VG30E or VG30ET so putting in a VG30DET is relatively simple and it will bolt straight to the original auto (which probably won't last long behind a DET or a V8). Either way, VG30E/T engines in Z31 are best tossed as they are prone to spontaneously combust......and I don't mean internally

Nissan will have it and your probably looking at $20 or so. The seal should be replaced as well, but that can be obtained from any bearing specialist for a few $$.

Almost certainly the striker arm is out of place in relation to the engagement strikers on the selector rods. Also the selector rod interlock balls are what is preventing you selecting other gears. Only way to fix it is to drop the extension housing, reposition the selector rods to their correct location (ie gearbox in neutral for re-assembly purposes) and then bolt up the extension housing so that the striker arm engages the selector rod strikers correctly.

The RB25DE gearbox is identical to the RB20DET type (ie it's the 'small' style GB).

pm re: collar and restrictors

Looks like an RB25 type (R33 GTSt). $100 is a bargain, although depends on internal condition, of course.

The journals are undersize when the crank is ground, but anyway I'm fairly sure the first undersize available is .025, so you should be fine. Someone else will be able to confirm or otherwise.

All sold, thanks for the interest.

Having the 2 studs makes things easier to install in terms of keeping the gasket in the right position as well as aligning the dump pipe. Also, getting bolts in can sometimes be more difficult due to the curvature of the dump. I'd tend to use the studs myself.

Sale of the 2nd one is pending........

One gone to Chef_32, one still available.

Chef - I'm in Melbourne (Ferntree Gully)

I have 2 new XBox 360 20GB hard drive's for sale. I bought these new ones via the Microsoft upgrade program (I have two X360 consoles) thinking that I'd use the cases to install big HD's, but have decided I can't be bothered. Anyway, all I'm asking is what I paid for them....$35 each + postage, if needed (pick up is fine). They're still in the original shipping packaging they came to me in, plus they have the invoices included for any warranty claims. No offers thanks, that's the price, take it or leave it.

The Herald-Sun is saying it was a 4.7....

Lasted about 5secs in F/tree gully....the walls moved.

......

Yes. You should use the R34 oil feed banjo bolts as they have the appropriate restrictors built in.

Good work. With one exception, I can give the direct reference number, which is much easier for suppliers to work with. You mention in the first post that one o-ring could not be found. Do you have the dimensions as there might be something available that will be close enough to do the job ??.

Z387 http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/ap...n/model/Skyline Any repco, burson's, etc, etc.

PM

PM re- sump

It would be a good idea to say where your located.

There are two because one does cylinders 1-3 and the other does 4-6. They are screwed into the block 'underneath' the inlet manifold just below the head gasket line, roughly in line with cylinders 2 and 5. If they trip an error in the ECU it will limit or fix the ignition timing advance in what's called the 'knock control region' (KCR) of the ignition timing map. It's done to prevent engine damage. Ignition timing at idle won't be included in the KCR, which might suggest you have another problem entirely. Did you clear the ECU error codes, run the engine again (ie drive it for awhile) and then recheck the error codes ?? You should always follow that procedure to ensure that the error code isn't simply transient. Even if you did follow that procedure, the first thing you should do is check all the wiring and knock sensor connectors for damage or even simple disconnection. A knock sensor is basically a PZT, which are very simple and robust devices and while it is possible for one to fail, that's pretty uncommon. Testing is not simple and requires access to an oscilloscope to be absolutely sure, and even then there's a bit of interpretation required. Substitution of a known good one (or pair) is usually quicker. A new one from Nissan is probably at least a few hundred $$.

No. There's a reason the RB25 gearbox is bigger than the RB20 type.