SteveL

Doesn't that tell you something ??

I'd be surprised if any Nissan dealer held one in stock (but you never know your luck......). It will almost certainly have to be brought in from Japan. No idea on price.

Sorry my mistake, I meant RB20E (not DE).

Well according to FAST the PN for the rocker cover gasket is: 13270-42L00 BUT....that's also the same PN for R31 and R32 RB20DE (I just checked).

If I get the time I'll look it up tomorrow at work, but without a VIN it will be a case of use at your own risk. A bit of advice - be clearer about exactly what your trying to do, it would have saved some time.

In that case genuine is probably your only option. Take your VIN to your local Nissan dealer and they should be able to look up the PN and order it in for you. It will probably have to come from Japan. Alternatively, see if an RB30 rocker cover will bolt on.

It's a stock ECU that's been chipped to optimise (in theory, at least) the fuel and/or ignition curves for, say, Jap 102 RON fuel. My GTR has a MINES chipped ECU and it runs fine on 98RON fuel, but my car is also fairly stock. Anyway, it should run your engine fine as it is, but whether you keep it depends on your plans for the engine. If you plan mods then best get a PFC or something along those lines.

Exactly the same as RB30E type (VL Commode, R31 Skyline). Any Repco, Burson's, Autobarn, etc will be able to help.

???

Gearbox oil capacity - 4.1L approx (see page CH-23 of the genuine WS manual) ATTESSA case oil capacity - 1.8L approx (see page CH-59 of the manual)

No (in terms of oil usage) and no. The transfer case uses ATF and the gearbox uses.....gearbox oil. The shift lever bolts to and connects inside the transfer case in the GTR gearbox. So when you filled the 'gearbox' through the shift lever hole, you actually only filled the transfer case....and it would have been waaaaaaay overfilled, thus the cause of the leaks, not to mention using the wrong oil. In fact, the filler plug for the gearbox is on it's side, accessed from the underneath the car. For the transfer case, the filler plug is at the back of the case and also accessed from below. Suggest you get hold of a workshop manual.

I've run an M48 Pro with all options enabled for a number of years now (note: non-turbo car) The M48 will pretty much run any engine, but is essentially an 'expanded' M4 with the ability to run full sequential injection on a 6-cylinder engine. Unless things have changed since I got mine, they don't provide specific maps for particular cars/engines (that's understandable when you realise the number of potential applications.....). It's relatively easy for someone that knows what they're doing. The quick lambda function helps quite a lot. My engine was tuned using an engine dyno. Unless things have changed at Motec, then the answer is no. Motec charge you for the bare ECU + whatever options you want (eg wide band control, traction control, whatever), but then hit you for a loom, sensors, etc. It gets expensive, but the best isn't cheap. It's cheaper to get your own sensors and in the case of MAP sensors the GM type is readily available and reasonably cheap. How long is a piece of string ??.....Motec costs more because they are the best and come with support second to none (in my experience). They are 'worth' what people will pay for them, to perhaps state the bleeding obvious. Generally you'd buy a Motec loom to suit your application and wire it where you want the ECU to be placed. Putting it where the original ECU was located makes sense, and, yes, the wires would need to pass through the firewall but since you'd be replacing much of the original loom anyway, you'd just run the replacement loom in place of the original. Another option would be to do a cut and shut job using the original loom. Not that I'm aware of. Keep in mind that Motec ECU's are designed for racing applications and in most cases are illegal for use in a road car. At one point Motec were offering a service to tune ECU's to meet emission standards, but the ECU once tuned had to be locked, which sort of defeats the purpose.

For anyone wondering about the price: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/rb26-turbo_W0QQitem...A1%7C240%3A1318

From memory, the Z32 uses a 280mm rotor and the radial distance between the caliper mounting bolts to the centre of the pads is smaller than the stock r32 GTR and R33 GTSt caliper (IOW the Z32 caliper mounting lugs are shorter so they won't suit the larger R32/R33 rotor). There may also be offset differences. Pads and piston diameters are the same, AFAIA.

Details are shown on page EN-11 of the genuine service manual......28 pages in from the start of the manual (well, it is in my electronic version)

Mohammed, I can understand your anger and frustration, but threats of physical violence are unlikely to be helpful in this situation. For the information of others affected (+Blitz, etc), I've had an email and PM from r34_83 this morning saying that the funds will be deposited first thing Monday morning.....we'll see.

No, you'll just have to keep trying. If you hadn't touched the steering wheel, etc as part of the other work, it seems unlikely that would be the problem, BUT it might be possible. Before randomly swapping parts tho, I'd be going through every connector + checking all hoses and pipes, as it seems that your problem is related to the turbo install (particularly if everything was fine beforehand, apart from the turbo's themselves).

You must use a spigot bush.

They've just shown overhead views of Marysville in a news report on the ABC and it's virtually all gone. Kinglake is apparently much the same. Many, many burnt out cars are being found on the roads and this is where many dead might be found. Very sad to see those people in Narre Warren interviewed. One minute they were watching TV, and the next their house and virtually everything else they own is gone.

PM

At best, there'd be a handful of 200ZR's in australia and finding a sump will be a tall order. You'd probably have better luck trying to find a sump from a GQ Patrol (RB30 engine) but these can also be hard to find. Edit: an expensive way to get a sump, but there's a whole car available on EGay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-200ZR-Z31-Fa...A1%7C240%3A1318

If anyone has a broken sensor they're just going to throw away I'd be interested in getting hold of it to pull apart (I'll pay postage). Basically it should contain just a set of accelerometers and some electronics. Accelerometers are a very common device and i have access to a range, so if it's possible to work out the type used it might be possible to do something in the way of a repair (no promises............).

Tony - please respond to my PM's

The answer to you question is 'highly unlikely'. The fact that you keep 'blowing' 5th tells me straight away that this is a driving style problem. 5th is overdrive and designed for highway cruising....and that's pretty much it. Had you broken one or maybe even two I would have said it was bad luck.....but 7 is a bit much and I'm not surprised the supplier wants to walk away (and yes, I understand they weren't all 5th gear failures). Sorry but you either need to moderate your driving style or get something more durable.

Yes it is, and it's the first thing to do before trying to 'guess' where the problem lies. DanShirts - suggest doing a search on these forums for 'HICAS diagnostics' as I'm sure someone will have posted the procedure + error codes previously. Also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual as all this is covered (I'm sure it's available for download from somewhere.......)