SteveL

OP was asking about FWD application for a U12. U13 Bluebird fits the bill. KA24DE was certainly available in RWD version. For example, late 90's Navara in Australia (actually both RWD and 4WD versions). In the US there was the popular 240SX (S13 and S14), of course, and even though Nissan never offered a turbo version from the factory, there have been many successful aftermarket turbo kits made for the KA24DE (designated KA24DE-T).

Here's a clue......the power wire to the resistor pack should be connected DIRECTLY to an unswitched +12V supply line. From the factory, the GTR resistor pack +12V supply is connected more-or-less directly to the positive terminal of the battery (in fact, with the ECCS injection system used by all RB's and other Nissan engines, the positive feed to the injectors is connected directly to the positive side of the battery...all power switching is done via the ECU).

I repeat, it's not a 'sealed system' in the same way as a refrigerator, which are, literally, hermetically sealed with brazed joints. There is simply no argument about that and my other statements are absolutely correct. This shows your lack of understanding of the law. It is quite legal for existing stocks of new r12 to be used to top-up automotive systems. However it's not legal to recycle R12 to be used in auto systems.....'recovered' R12 must be destroyed (high-temp furnace). Stocks of new, legally imported R12 still exist and will do so for quite some time. The law is designed not to penalise those who imported their R12 stock legally before the import ban came into effect (as well as the retailers who held stock). Just in the last month I had my GTR converted to R134a from R12 (it came into the country with R12 4+ years ago), BUT I had the choice of topping up with R12 if I wanted....quite legally. The difference in price was $100. I'd give you the name of the licensed company concerned to straighten you out on the details of the law, but I really don't want you bothering him with questions I've already answered here. Anyway, believe what you will,, it makes no difference to me.

R32's used R12 from the factory. $100-$150 is normal for a system check and top-up (whether R12 or R134a), and $250-$300+ to change a system from R12 to R134a depending on how much profit the a/c joint wants to make.... BTW, car a/c systems are not 'sealed' in the same way as a refrigerator. Car systems use o-rings at joints and mechanical seals for the rotating shaft in the compressor. They can and do lose a small amount of gas over a period of time, particularly at the compressor mech seal. It is very important to run a car system at least once a week as it helps maintain a good seal.

KA24DE was used in locally sold U13 Bluebird and is definitely east-west (FWD). I had to fix one recently that had blown the distributor (common problem due to oil seal leak stuffing the internal electronics). Nissan wanted extortionate $$ even at trade prices and I ended up getting one in from the US at a fraction of the price along with all the rocker cover gaskets. Anyway, the locally sold U12 Pintara came with the CA20E engine (read: boat anchor) as well as the KA24E (single cam) engine in higher spec models (Ti hatch). I'd say dropping in a KA24DE would be a relatively simple swap, but I've never done it so can't say for sure.

PM

So it'll start when you push it, but motor won't turn over via the key ?? (when hot). Suggest you look at the starter motor..........

PM

So you were actually speeding and they've just written down the incorrect time ?? Don't bother going to court if that is the case. The magistrate will give the officer concerned the opportunity to amend the time of the offence, if they don't do so beforehand. This simple technicality doesn't alter the fact that you were caught speeding.

The important thing when having a windscreen replaced - and it doesn't matter who does it - is to make sure any damage to the paint under the old sealer is repaired BEFORE putting the new windscreen in. When they remove the old sealer they always scrape the old sealer off and can damage the paint, which could expose the underlying metal resulting in corrosion down the track (the new sealant only delays the inevitable). I've seen this on many cars and had to do the repairs, which in extreme cases involves lots of welding. I usually use a high zinc primer or something like Kill Rust, but I also ask the installer to come back in a few days after he's removed the windscreen. That give me time to restore the paint, they usually don't mind, but I realise that might be difficult if you need the car back on the road quickly.

No problems that I've noticed.

From memory, R30's use an external pump at the rear next to the tank. Fuel pump is controlled by the ECU, possibly via a relay. It will be a matter of checking for + 12V at the pump connectors in the first instance, plus there will be an earth connection somewhere so that will be worthwhile checking as well. Probably best to get hold of a wiring diagram. Of course you should also see if there's a fuse for the fuel pump, if it's blown the pump is probably fried. BTW, not a good idea to run those type of pump dry. They rely on fuel to cool the internals. I can't really help much more than that, it's been a very long time since I had an R30. Good luck.

Give National Windscreens a call. It was 3 years ago, but a brand new one was $180 fitted on site for my GTR. I wouldn't bother with a second hand one, personally. As to the radio not working, R32's (well, GTR's at least) use a 'diversity' system which uses an antenna built into the front windscreen AND the rear windscreen de-mister grid as an antenna (there's a module in the LHR quarter behind the boot trim that has antenna and grid power connections, it acts as some sort of filter system to eliminate radio interference). Of course this assumes your still using the stock radio (unlikely.....). I disonnected the rear grid antenna connection and added one of those aftermarket Aerpro hidden antenna's. Works fine.

I don't think anyone should install any sort of hoist (2 or 4 post or whatever) without ensuring the location is suitable for the purpose. It's not just a question of floor thickness, but the amount and type of reinforcement that's been used. There's also the question of how level the floor is, because that has a big influence on tie-down bolt loads. For portable type lifts I'd suggest level is even more critical because they don't normally have any type of fixings. In Vic, the DLI (might not be called that now) requirements for commercially installed hoists are very stringent, not only in terms of on-going safety inspections, but also structural specifications for installations. While the same regs don't apply to private use of hoists, you'd have to be crazy not to be sure of your ground (literally, in this case.......). I know what's in my garage floor because I installed it with the help of my father who was a building inspector.

Ash, I've got an injector loom there as well. I believe it's RB20 but not totally sure (I've got a whole bunch of looms there and I'm in the midst of a big cleanup. Has the mating connector with plenty of additional wire. Anyway you'd best look at it to see if it's what you need and then we can work something out.

2 post hoists have been around for a very long time and are still the most common type available. They are no less safe than any other type when installed correctly and used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. My 'old' Koni is a proven design, which has been inspected and is operated correctly. One thing you fail to mention is that anyone planning to install a hoist must ensure that their concrete floor is structurally suitable for the purpose. Many garage floors don't have the appropriate reinforcement and that can be a dangerous situation.

I've got an old Repco-Koni, 2 post asymmetric lift type. Cost me $1K from the Trading Post about 3 years ago. Had to convert it to single phase and make an adapter plate for the new motor, but not a big problem. Can't get it to full height yet as I need to raise the roof by about 1m. Still high enough for me to a gearbox change, etc

Stock Nissan rods are forged. I don't know of any Nissan engine that doesn't used forged rods, although some manufacturers have been experimenting with advanced powder met techniques. Shot peening introduces a surface compressive residual stress which resists crack initiation and growth. If it's not done properly it can actually introduce defects. In any event the weak point is not the rod, but the rod bolts, unless the rod has some manufacturing flaw (NDI is mandatory). Whether you need to go to upgraded rods depends on expected power level as already suggested.

If you have no luck, I have a couple of R30 Skyline injector resistor packs complete with mating plug. Will do exactly the same job. $20 (each). Just gotta find them.......

Without examining the broken parts properly (ie microscope and maybe SEM) I can't be absolutely certain, of course, but looking at the photo's I'd say it's odds-on the shaft has failed due to cracking (probably fatigue) at the splines at the change-in-section where the shaft passes through the bearing. I'm guessing the other shaft failed in the same place (??). If that's the case, it's a design issue, and any replacement shaft of the same design will do exactly the same thing (eventually...). Any replacement shaft should be re-designed to eliminate the splines at that location. Of course, that might be quite difficult. As I said, I'd need to examine the parts to be certain.

As described above, GTR's built from late '92 or '93 came with the pull mechanism. Prior to that, the push type is used. The reason for the change is that the push type clutch fork and pivot ball are weak points if you move to a heavy duty clutch (increased spring load). The clutch fork fails by fatigue at the pivot ball contact point and I believe the pivot cracks just under the head. The clutch fork failure is a actually a problem that goes right back to the early race 240Z's as they used essentially the same design. I've suffered 2 fork failures with heavy duty clutches in the Z. The pull style clutch mechanism is a much better design and eliminates the problem.

PM

Before doing anything like the above, like others I suggest you talk to Vicroads (try to speak to an engineer, not one of the drones) and the EPA about the situation, plus have a read of this: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Regist...ctsSuspensions/ A RW inspection assesses mechanical safety and having a cat or not will make no difference in that regard. OTOH having a cat is required for ADR compliance, which is automatically included as part of Vicroads vehicle standards requirements for registration purposes, but this is an emissions (EPA) issue and, as the above link shows, only the EPA can clear such defects (ie having a RWC makes no difference). It's been awhile since I've had an RW inspection done, but I don't think inspection for a cat is part of the process. I'm open to correction on this one. Either way I'd be careful about making any threats until your sure of where you stand.

PM

Blackwoods stock JBS clamps, so are worth a call: http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/infoBANKprod...4&P=2028729 They're in Scoresby, amongst other places around Vic