Waza_GTR

I am trying to remove this now and it does not want to go left or right.

Just buy the Nismo ones. $300 compared to $250 that Omurru paid. Nismo ones will fit perfect for only $50 more.

Get the compressor in or out from underneath. I have 50mm thick radiator so had to take it out to mget the clearance. Standard radiator you may be able to get it out with the radiator in. You can get the lines out no problem. Condenser comes out the front.

Rear is OK go to 355 on the front

Take the back off the standard ECU with the mounts on it. Slot the holes slightly to fit the PowerFC case. Job done

I removed ABS from 32 GTR and it made no difference to anything, same with Hicas, just removed all the plugs and everything else worked same as before. Maybe the wheel sensors have been disconnected.

Had mine for 6 years now and will never let it go. Used it as a daily for a couple of years and eventually broke it. Got a full rebuild all forged inside new turbos cams and all the rest, over 400kW At the wheels. Dont' use it as a daily any more but it is a lot of fun when I do take it for a spin. Go the 32 it is the only GODZILLA, all the later models are pretenders.

Nothing with Garretts especially -5's I got 408kW ATW on 95

Front 355 Rear 345 Try and get about 6 to 6.5 front caster

Go 245's and add a bit of castor and it will improve heaps. I had 255's and went down to 245's and the handling improved. Track tyres I use 225's.

Standard is 16X8JJ +30 so should be OK. Be out about 6mm more on the outside

I had high pressure and was blowing white smoke out the exhaust. Too much pressure at turbos will drive oil across seals into exhaust. That was with N1 pump, hitting 110psi at 6k.

Check inside temp sensor is connected.

Just unplug the hicas computer

You can use non hicas pump, you just need the correct mounting bracket for the pump.

Even if you could drive it 2 hours putting along will wreck the engine, your rings will never bed in and you will get heaps of blowby. Put the power FC in set AFM and injectors too start and check for leaks. Dont ley it idle for too long though.

If you are not going on the track don't bother. Only really useful on track with no ABS.

As long as the FPR can flow the extra fuel back to the tank it will be fine. Measure pressure at fuel rail before and after, should be around 43psi. If it can keep pressure at 43 psi at idle you will be OK.

Go to 38psi and see if that helps

Got a working one I am not using if you want it. Got rid of the ABS and using N1 BMC

I was getting the same with N1 pump. Put in external pressure regulator to get it down a bit. 100 is too much for turbo seals.

You need to be in NZ with the car. I have just got my car here and had to give complete scan of passport and account for all time out of NZ. Lucky I have owned the car for 6 years and was in NZ for 14 months. Also needs to be registered so not much chance of the personal import rule working for you.

How much for 2 AFM's and plugs

32 and 33 are the same, no mods required

I got 408kW at the wheels with -5's on 95 octane no problems. Just need to put a bit of advance on the intake cams and they come on real early.