tm_r33

im sure its been done many times before but as with any major engine conversion u will usually not find any two the same. thats the thing about it. you will spend many hours working things out and finding ways around things and finish with a car thats quite unique. of coarse when its a more simple conversion (say.. putting a 30 bottom end in a 33 or rb into a smaller nissan like a silvia) it may not take as much modification or innovative thinging as putting a big v8 in a completly unrelated chassis. but im sure you will work through it. its far from the weirdest conversion ive seen. a hyundai excell with an ecotec engine with a huge single turbo hanging off it was a bit of an eye opener for me. the way the had to ...."adjust"..... the floor pan to suit rear wheel drive was lets just say, interesting lol

the hicas in 33 is electronic not hydraulic as in 32. There for it has a controller in the boot. Its bolted to the underside of the parcel shelf. I have ran lock bars in multiple 33 skylines and can tell u this.... Removal of the eletric steering rack in order to install lock bar will work perfectly fine as long as u dont unplug the controller in the boot. I run a lock bar in my current track car and it was as simple as unbolting and unpluging rear rack and chucking lock bar in. Power steering and speed sensitive steering still works fine. If you unplug the control unit in boot u loose power steering. I think this is due to the speed sensors in the 33s steering. Screwing around with the steering angle sensor behind the steering wheel has the same effect. Crawl under ur car and cable tie the rear steer plugs to your lock bar. Hopefully no one thought they should be cut off. Get your head in the boot and make sure ur hicas control is still there and that it plugged in. Pm me if ur still stuck there is a few other small things i can think of that may affect.

will go straight on s1 r33. With benefit of being newer and having steel comp wheel. Are u interested bazza

yer comp wheel. The early r33s had a ceramic comp wheel but the later ones have a steel comp wheel. And yes all of them run ceramic exhaust wheel i think.

have a steel wheel turbo from a late 96 series 2 r33 gtst for sale car was standard with 90 000 kms minimal shaft play also have... manifold, dump pipe, oil and water lines need it gone $250 for the whole lot or near offer

hey guys im an electrician by trade and know a small amount about kill switchs in cars. i run a full battery isolator on my car but thats more to do with the track use rather than security (its a track car). its a large red plastic key that needs to be engaged next to the battery in the boot of my 33. without this key in place the battery is completly isolated from the cars electrics. i can easy think of a way around this right now but i wont list it in case there is any scum trawling the forums looking for ways around it. i have helped my mate put a hidden kill switch in two of his daily driven imports (r32 and s13) it was as simple as locating the fuel pump wire and putting a switch inline. this wire usually runs in a fairly easy to get to place but is well out of eye sight to anyone who didn't know it was there. (once again i wont list the wire location in case car thieves are reading this) i can think of plenty of other wires that putting a switch on would hinder the car being driven. on older cars u can simply take off the lead from the coil to the centre of the distributer. u could have a quick release steering wheel as one of my mates has. if your willing to remove the passenger footwell scuff panel u could take your ecu every time you leave your car lol. you could carry surclip plies and take the gear stick every time u jump out lol. hidden switch for igniter on early nissans (newer ones have igniter built into ecu)

maybe u should list ur cam gears

front pipe sold wheels sold

air flow metre sold

Bov is universal fit

250 and its yours?

Hi guys no need for any of the following parts because ive built new 3 litre. All parts came out of a running 33gtst s2 with 90 000 kms in perfect running order. RB25det complete bottom end. good condition. always ran full synthetic oil. $500 RB25det stock ECU out of series 2 r33 gtst. Good condition. $100 RB25det Turbo w manifold & turbo lines Minimal shaft play. good condition. $300 Turbosmart Vee port BOV near new condition. i never got round to putting it on my car. $80 RB25det injectors r33 gtst stockies. good condition. never leaked or gave me issues. $100 RB25det air flow meter good condition. i cleaned it with contact cleaner every couple of services. $50 make me an off on above item. need stuff gone asap.

i have the gasket for the turbo end. The other one fell apart when i took exhaust apart this morning.

lol i cant seem to find an edit button to update my first post in this thread. I would likme to remove the parts that are sold and add many more parts. Why cant i see edit button ???

my engine builder didnt seem to think it would need machining.

hahah i read this a day too late. standard flywheel already been balanced up with my crank and balancer. and yes car will be getting the ring smashed out of it. TRACK ONLY (plus.... secret, confidenial, shhh shhh, night time, back road, test work ) oh and im guessing the heat scortch marks on my standard flywheel are normal??? i hope so....! If i hear any more 'shattered flywheel' stories im going to sh*t myself and build a scatter plate in my gearbox tunnel lol

engine is partway through the build. gone with the aries 10cc dome top. at 0 deck with 1.2 head gasket they should give close enough to 9:1 which i what ive been trying to stay close to through my research and build. james_03 did u nip 0.8 off the deck because it needed it (ie. the face was damaged) or simply to lift ur CR ?

sorry about slow replies. I only use internet on my phone at the moment. The front pipe is this one. The FCD has 4 wires

yer id take $50. No idea what make or model. Its was in my 33gtst when i bought the car. I cant see any markings on it.

you didnt come accross negative at all r33_racer. All the input i can get is very helpful. Ive only owned imports as street cars previously and much of my racing experience is go karts and a couple of track days. Your right in suggesting that it doesnt matter how i get my power as long as i get it. Many suggested running lower cr and that way allows more room for timing and more boost. But on the same note just as many people say stay at around the 9:1 mark because im not planning on heading past about 17 psi and not planning on dialing a pile of timing into it.

dump and front. Runs whole way to cat. Ill try get a pic up today

Yer mate its from just jap. its the combined pipe. Not the one with a seperate wastegate pipe that re enters furthur down.

Will get a pic up tomoz. Hobart tasmania. Was hoping for local pick mostly

HKS mushroom pod filter with rubber adapter. $50 (new conditon minus filter element) Front mount intercooler kit to suit 33gtst $300 (comes with extra silicon joiners, good condition) Fuel cut defender $80 (new condition) remapped standard ecu (s2 r33 gtst) $200 (good condition) JJR stainless inch front dump pipe $100 (minimal use, couple of track days, good condition) Turbosmart V port blow off valve $100 (good condition) 2x 33gtst stock rims w tires $80 (painted black) BMC super touring pod filter $30 (900kms use , good condition, huge surface area) washer bottle r33gtst $10 (good condition) air con pump r33gtst $30 (works fine, 90 xxx km) rear hicas unit r33gtst GIVE AWAY (works fine) air flow meter r33 gtst $50 (cleaned regularly since ive owned car. good condition) need it gone guys. rb30det project needs more funding lol

this was in january before the car came off the road and started being built into a serious race car. car: 33gtst mods: 3inch open pipe from turbo. 14 psi. Piggyback ecu. Fmic. Fuel pump. Short shift. Lock diff. Lightweight race rims. Suspension. Removal 150kg worth of factory crap and interiors etc Power: 220 kw what you broke: 3rd and 4th plus diff failure how you did it: at symons plains raceway. Short shift made mince meat of 3rd and 4th syncros so smashing it into those gears resuslted in them soon failing lol. And it wouldnt be a good day out if a crown wheel bolt didnt mysteriously come loose and exit the half inch cast steel housing like a bullet leaving a hole half the size of a closed fist in the housing and demolishing everything it came into contact with inside the closed unit.