Brezza

I'd just take it to a good tuner and tell them your problem and ask if they could spend a little more time tuning the other areas of the map. I've only used turbo tune once years ago and I never went back after that. Wasn't happy with the tune, so I went elsewhere. I go to Boostworx, I trust Shaun's tuning and havent had a problem to date with their work. But maybe the only way to get this sorted is to pay a litle extra for some fine tuning rather than just getting a power tune done when they only adjust the cells referenced at WOT.

Try out Mobile Brake Repairs (ask for Mark) 0413 248 675 he removed my ABS and he knows heaps about brakes, he races a R33 GTR so he knows what is needed when it comes to track cars.

my GTR will have 3 wheels off the ground, its because i got Tein SS in there, with the stock suspension the wheels would still touch the ground. u used to jack the car from the gearbox mount near the drivers side door then go around to the front and do the front from the subframe. but i managed to now get the jack under the front spoiler and jack from the subframe on one side of the front, this makes it a little easier doing it this way. i always try and use solid points like the subframe. i onced used one of those scissor jacks and had to lift is as far as it would go to get a brick under the car to support it, just as it was just about as high as it would go the scisor jack gave way and bent and the car fell back into me and pushed me. lucky i didnt have my knees under the car or anything like that, it just pushed me away. lesson learnt, dont use scissor jacks! i'm gonna try and get a mate to make up some wooden ramps to get the car up maybe 90mm so it will give some more room when doing oil changes, or when i need to get under there. a low profile jack would be awesome!

i gotta agree with this bloke he puts it nice and simple. there are a few blokes who go to track days with 300+kw but still manage to have guys with cars close to the 200kw mark lap faster than them. on a track its not all about power, its about suspension, brakes and driver skills and experience. the thing that i look for when i do power upgrades is how hard my car accelerates in the midrange, on the point on the graph around 4000rpm where the graph goes from 150kw up to 280 within 1500rpm is where i wanna see the largest jump in power, it will peak around peak torque, max KW might be up around 7800rpm but really how usable is it? i think that some people get a little bit to technical about how powerful their car is, and how it compares with others? yours makes 10more kw than mine but my torque is higher blah blah. ideally a fast car should be able to provide strong acceleration in midrange with as minimal lag as possible. simple as that

I'd say go for the R1R's they arent cheap i paid $300 each for mine, they're the exact same measurement as yours. i'm running Nismo LMGT2's 17x9.5 +16 and the Toyo's fit perfectly, there is no stretch at all, the 235 toyo is more like a 255 in some other brands. i've run them for just over a year on the street, havent tracked them yet, but will be doing so in about 2 weeks. on the street they're great when you get a bit of heat into them, through the hills after a couple of hard braking the tyres grip awesome. in the wet they're really good too. IMO for a really really good street tyre the R1R's are up there, if i needed more grip i'd probably have to go semi slick. i'm running 350rwkw and the tyres grip pretty well, the tyres only spin if i clutch kick or launch. +1 for R1R's

i remember looking at making my own kit up and an inline thermostat was around the $115 mark and it opened at 85 degrees C i opted for a cheaper kit, and if i find the oil takes ages to heat up i'll just install one of these myself.

I'd be leaning more to getting a new one, that way I know that its condition when I put it in. I dont really want to be buying a second hand one and having to rebuild it before I use it. It'll probably cost near about the same.

Resonable offers will be considered!

Youtube Awesomeness

Hey BWRGTR keep me posted on what the outcome is once you get the old clutch out and new one in. how much have people picked up twin plate clutches for the GTR for?

the guy selling it to me did warn me that it can weld to the flywheel in some cases, usually drifters or racers have done this. but on the street it is fine. it does tend to happen when the engine gets quite warm and i've been driving for a while. i was looking into getting a twin plate clutch, its just they're a fair bit expensive. but i suppose at the power level i'm at i might need it?

i guess if i was that in danger for my life over the car they can have the damn thing. id rather no car than have aids and a car.

Sorry to hear mate! its been said so many times, and some ignore it. But if you own a nice import car and dont want to be in this situation an alarm should be one of the first things we put on our cars. There is too many scumbags out there who will steal a car! What ever it is hopefully it will be protected with an alarm and or immobiliser. if i woke up at night hearing my alarm going off i would run to the kitchen and grab the machete and hopefully scare the hell out of whoever set the damn thing off.

this is what i found when i changed from twin pods to the stock air box on the GTR, i noticed straight away that the car kept pulling hard right high into the revs, with the pods on it seemed to feel like it would hiss and make induction noise but then the power would trail off as all its sucking in is hot air. i did miss the suction noise so i put the pods back on, but the loss in power because of the 'hot air intake' was not worth the sound. on the GTR i have pulled that resonator thing out of the front bar, so running 16psi low and 21psi high boost i can hear the induction noise through that a little more.

Hey guys, I am just having a problem with the GTR, its a 89. It's currently got 350rwkw and is running a standard box and a Extreme clutch kit. From memory the clutch is a cushion button 6 puk ceramic clutch, 1600kg pressure plate, chromoly flywheel. it has been rebuttoned once when the ceramic plates were put on instead of kevlar, and the flywheel and pressure plate was machined. the clutch fully engages right near the top of the pedal, i dont know whether it has worn out again? it shouldn't have because it was only repadded a year ago, the engagement hasnt really changed much. the story goes, whenever i hard lauch the car and take the RPM up to around 7k it wont let me change gear into 2nd, it will not let me pull the shifter out of first. And yes i do push the clutch right in! I've spoken to a few people and they have suggested that maybe the pressure plate is being pushed too far in and it is rubbing on something or making the clutch engage in a weird way and will not let me change gears? thinking about it, it does feel similar to if you dont push the clutch in far enough and try and change gears. could i also be maybe heating the clutch too much and it could possibly be melting to the flywheel? i was told that there have been instances where in motorsport some clutches have been known to melt to the flywheel. i highly doubt this as it is just a street car at the time being. Does anyone have any thoughts? or any experiences that they may be able to offer some advice as to the possible cause?

sorry couldnt take pics on the weekend. will get some up this week. come on guys with S13's and GTS-t's this would be perfect for you guys!

I have now removed my ABS, the pedal feel is much better and I'm more confident when braking I also went for a few upgrades when I removed my ABS, I installed some R34 GTR Brembo brakes with some QFM A1RM's all round, a Brake Master Cylinder Brace and Custom Braided Lines. The GTR pulls up really well, I have only slightly locked one wheel while driving and it was due to the bumpy road, but overall having no ABS isnt really that much to worry about, it just takes some getting used to and knowledge of what to do when the brakes lock and to know where the threshold is. Will post up pics of the new lines and brake system after the weekend.

aren't these tires asymetrical? i chose to get Toyo R1R's they can be changed front to back and left to right, i find they're great in both wet and dry. will definitely buy them again. i got mine for $300 each so probably a little more expensive than KU36's but i am running 17's in 18's they're pretty $$$ i've got about a years worth of wear out of them which is pretty good for a tread rating of 140. they're just on the wear marks, will be taking them for some fun on the track then new ones will be going on. i am not a fan of asymetrical tyres

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKeRfyatIuU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKeRfyatIuU

R32 GTR (non brembo) brakes for sale i got - R32 GTR front and rear callipers (painted gold) - front & rear slotted RDA rotors (i think 296mm front and 280mm rear) - comes with Bendix Ultimate pads - (brand new in box) braided HEL brake lines $800 for everything would be perfect for silvia's or 32 GTS Will post up pic's after the weekend Rotor's are in really good condition, calipers look good in gold PM me contact me on 0421 125 183

R32 GTR (non brembo) brakes for sale i got - R32 GTR front and rear calipers (painted gold) - front & rear slotted RDA rotors (i think 296mm front and 280mm rear) - comes with Bendix Ultimate pads - (brand new in box) braided HEL brake lines $800 for everything would be perfect for silvia's or 32 GTS Will post up pic's after the weekend Rotor's are in really good condition, calipers look good in gold PM me contact me on 0421 125 183

I reccomend the QFM pad, I am running the A1RM and its great, got good bite from cold which is really surprising and they just get better with a bit of heat into them. haven't tracked the car with the pads so i can't say personally what they're gonna be like on the track? but i got a 32 GTR with 34 Brembo's the car pulls up fast! Also if someone is looking for some 32 GTR calipers (sprayed gold), pads and slotted RDA rotor's for your silvia or 32 GTS-t PM me, i got a set for sale

Are there many people doing this from SAU? just wanting to know if i'll know anyone there?

SOLD to me Picked them up yesterday!

Hey Pete, Nah i havent had the car around Mallala yet, i have signed up for the High Performance Driving day and I've just been trying to get the car ready for that. I popped one of my cooler hoses a few weeks back and the car has been used only on low boost putting around the streets. I've ordered a whole box of goodies to throw on it. Oil Cooler, intercooler hoses, gauges, braided lines, brake master cylinder stopper. I'm also trying to source some bigger brakes to throw on the car, cos i'm still running sumitomo's I dont think my times would be too crash hot, because with the current brakes i've been told they wont handle too many hot laps. i've got toyo R1R's all round on the car, they're about a year old and are just maybe .5mm off the tread markers. so they've probably got maybe 1 track day left in them then they're in the bin. I can't wait to get out around there!