Brezza

yep! just stick with the stock airbox, i still even have the front bar snorkel still in place. i can hear the stock BOV's when i change gears, and there is a slight induction noise i can still hear. but if i had pods running near on 22psi the induction noise would get a little loud and a bit annoying. the biggest benefit is that when the hood is popped the engine bay still looks stock as! its also a good sign to see bugs and stuff stuck in the filter when i washed it. it shows that its actually doing its job. i had foam ones in it a year ago and they didnt filter a thing, there was nothing caught in them. all the dust, dirt and bugs would've gone through the motor.

are these still for sale?

have you considered using one of those kits for the GTR to go from a 296mm rotor to a 324mm rotor using the same sumitomo calipers? i am yet to get out to Mallala, but am going to be heading out there next month. and hopefully a little more in the future. i dont really want to upgrade to brembo's because its a big cost for only a small upgrade. i've heard that the most important part in your braking system is having good pads and fluid. there is little need for huge rotors and calipers if you are still running shit pads.

I'd love to sit in the passenger seat of my car with a professional driver showing me what its capable of. i'm really looking forward to this day, can't wait! bring on 24th November!!

hey mate, i am keen for this! put me on the list!

thanks for organising this! looking forward to receiving the brake lines! cheers,

dont buy it! i bought a car off a lebo for cheap. it had a whole heap of mods on it, looked good with C-West bodykit etc. aftermarket chrome turbo, front mount, power fc, full sound system, 3in exhaust. it was a 99 WRX, i got it for $14k back 5yrs ago but i found that the exhaust wasnt full 3in, it had some parts which were 3in, some 2.5, some stock! the ecu wasnt even tuned properly for the car, and the motor was blown! it only made 110kw i put so much money into getting it right with a full 2.5sti block. only to be defected, and then find the best part! underneath the car you could see the shonky welds from a major crash, and there was a hole left in the floor where they didnt match the half cut up properly. it would've cost heaps to get it rewelded and approved so i just sold it as a wreck to someone interstate who wanted to use it as a track car, because it pushed out 215awkw and was punchy as! lesson learnt about imports which seem too cheap to be true! if it is lower than the rest of the market, there is usually a damn good reason why, not just. "i'm moving interstate" pfft everybody uses that one! just like "genuine 87,000kms lady owner"

yeah I did get them from perfect run, they were 66,600 yen = 866.85 AUD + 46.86 AUD postage = 913.71 AUD they were still the cheapest I could find at the time. its not cheap, but nothing Nismo branded is! and the best part was I didnt have to change anything to fit it. just needed a retune of the Nistune ECU and that's it. if you were to go for new z32's and some bolt on kit with pods (apexi for example) the cost would be almost the same as just the Nismo AFM's.

I was contemplating this in my GTR a while ago, but I was told by my tuner that the Green AFM's would more than likely be just as old as my stock ones, and being second hand the accuracy of the two of them could vary. Given that you need 2 in a GTR one could be reading higher than the other and make it difficult to tune. So I just bit the bullet and paid $900 for new Nismo AFM's and had my GTR tuned with them on, and now I have new AFM's which should last a long time! I remember reading that one of the tuners? Said that most problems with tuning are caused by faulty or old AFM's and coil packs. this is why i went for new items.

I might head down tonight? what time to you guys plan on getting there? 7:30ish?

From what I've read about e85 is that people are getting great results over BP98 because in most cases they've hit the limit of boost where they can not put anymore boost in otherwise the engine will ping. So then they go and change injectors, fuel pump and run e85. Add 5psi of boost and take timing out and get an extra 30-40kw out of the car. So from what i've read its the high octane that allows people to run much higher boost and take advantage of the timing differences and get more power. If you dont change the boost level too much then I doubt there will be much of a difference in power just from changing the fuel? i went from getting consistently between the 300-310 range @ 18-19psi, but when i changed AFM's and started using E10 or 100 octane fuel and turned the boost up to 21-22 i am in the 340-350rwkw range so if I personally were to change to e85 i would be wanting to turn the boost up to 24+ and try for 380rwkw

what do you mean min rolling code and 3 point? what would you recommend for an alarm/imobiliser?

just like everyone says platinum plugs are a waste of $$ coppers are fine, and because they're cheap most people just replace them if they get fouled. i replaced mine after a year, they weren't in too bad condition but i was doing coil packs and just decided to replace the plugs too because its just so cheap.

why dont you try Toyo R1R's? they're still street legal and have a wear rating of 140 i havent tracked my car with them yet, but i plan to. they're a great tyre, they do wear more than your normal tyres but thats what you get with a softer compound. better grip = more wear i got mine for my 17in rims and they were $300 each for 235x45 R17, they're also NOT asymetric so you can swap sides and front to back to get most wear out of them. mind you the 235 is wider than the normal 235, i have 9.5in rims and there is the absolute slightest stretch on the tyre so they should fit your rims well. i find on my GTR they really start to perform when pushed hard and respond better when warm.

i am leaning towards getting a HKS one or Greddy one from Perfect Run or Nengun. whichever is cheaper. its still around the $900 mark, which isnt much when i compare it to the other parts i have bought to put on the motor. and given that its a full rebuild i dont want to risk a cheap part leaking and causing my engine to blow or break because its lost oil because of cheap fittings or adapter plates. also i am not a mechanic so i would be paying someone labour costs to install it, and if a kit with the correct brackets and leghts of hose for the particular car would help keep the labour costs down.

do you still have this for sale?

i got 350rwkw in my GTR using 650cc injectors 600cc ones will be fine!

Hey, i've done a search and havent been able to get my question answered. is there anything wrong with running a cheaper oil cooler, for example the ones around the $400 mark with a oil filter relocator or do i really need to go for a HKS, Greddy or similar style one which costs close or more than $1,000 i just want some honest input about whether people have used the cheaper ones and whether they stand up to the job of cooling the oil out on the track without leaking oil or any other issues? cheers,

i find that the R1R's on my GTR are fairly quiet, i dont hear the tyres over my exhaust and the exhaust isnt overly loud. even pushing hard around corners they wont make noise, they might make a slight noise when the car slides but nowhere near as loud as the last tires i had on before. Nankang and Marshall's

i would like to know this too! where did you get all the seals from?

yeah i found that my car ran about 40kw difference between 2 dyno's. dynodynamics and mainline i really dont care, the car felt much faster. i always get the car dynoed and tuned on the same dyno to eliminate any issues with the dyno reading low. then if power is down or its not making as much as it should be then there is something wrong.

what sort of fuel ecconomy are you guys running e85 getting? lowest i've gotten in my GTR on PULP is 14L/100kms but when pushing it a bit every now and again it'll get up around the 16-18L/100kms

personally i prefer the R32 4 door GTS-t over the 2 door GTS-t. they just got a nice look, especially when lowered!

so no unwanted attention to the area where the unit should be? just to clarify, the brakes will only really lock up if you hit them hard and very fast? i've only locked brakes in other car's when i was a P-plater right before i hit something, haha! so i guess it was just bad driving, first : a little bit of screaching around a corner so i slammed the brakes and locked them and spun out. other times i hit the brakes hard, obviously wet weather doesnt help either or bad/bald tyres

do you still drive your's as a street car? or is it purely a track car? any issues with the defects? or any braking issues? locking up?