Brezza

you'll probably find that the people that get defected are regularly defected. i think that certain cars are targeted if they have been defected before, because honestly police arent that stupid, its easy to figure out that if a car is defected and sent to regency, and has passed. more than likely the owner has put on the same parts they were defected for because they've spend money on them and the car goes seriously faster with its pod and BOV!! if i had a high mount with external gates i certainly wouldnt be planting it on the streets everyday on my commute to work, but hey, i suppose some people would and they're the ones that will probably be defected for it. it might also help people not get defected if they're not driving with their hoodie on! most of the time i see someone pulled over with their bonnet up they're wearing a hoodie and so are all their mates. seriously it shouldnt be that cold inside a car!!

why are you spending the extra $$ in changing your car to E85 for a power level that can easily be achieved on PULP?? seriously, its gonna be harder to get E85 than PULP because of limited stations selling it. you wouldn't want to buy it by drum from any race fuel place because its $2.50 per L or more all the time in tuning and getting your fuel system upgraded to handle the additional flow seriously outweighs any benefits of E85 at your goals. i think on this forum some people are getting a little too in love with E85, its good for knock protection and can make more power on very high boost applications and high comp motors. but on most street skylines, their comp ratios arent high enough to get the full benefit of E85 and most arent running super levels of boost 25psi or more. on my GTR i could get 300rwkw everyday on 18psi on PULP which is more than your power goals are. i put my GTR on E85 when it wouldnt make anymore than 350rwkw on PULP at 22psi, i didnt want to do any headwork and thought that E85 might be able to give me that extra bit to hit 500rwhp but more than $2000 later on 1000cc injectors, 2 fuel pumps, modification to fuel lines for the additional flow. i'm running 24.5psi of boost and only manage 365rwkw but speaking with others who have reached the threshold of PULP on RB26/30 builds (which have higher comp ratio) and they also run higher boost the benefits of E85 are huge. so you can take my advice and save yourself some money, or you can spash out and brag to everyone on the forum that you're too running E85 in your skyline but still have a relatively lowing power level.

i suppose a lot of them either have the money to do their cars up to have 500hp and have probably kept a lot of stock parts to put back on, if they got defected. seriously IMO if you've got shiny stainless piping and blue hoses everywhere and the engine bay looks all non standard then you're asking for it. i've been pulled over and my car has been checked for everything, seatbelts, washers, wipers exhaust note, BOV, tail lights. the only thing under my bonnet is the autech style catch can which i've used the std rubber hose and some blue hose to connect it to the engine. but i've tried to hide it. if anyone asks i just tell them that it is a part that broke and needed replacing and the only replacements they make are those stainless ones. i'd be happy to paint it black though. i dont really care too much. I've also got just under 500hp and the engine bay looks stock, even the std airbox is still there. its the only part the cop asked about. and its because there is some oil condensation around the edge and i told him it was just because the oiled air filter. if you be polite and give them believable reasons for things then they'll usually let you off unless they see something strange which is obvious. it probably helps not hanging arround macca's carpark with your bonnet up. seriously, anyone is going to assume you've got something non std to show off, or there is something not working properly and you're waiting for RAA.

3.5 or 4in cat back exhaust for r32 GTR

I suppose more excited about getting my own home. the GTR is going to be staying at the missus mum's place because the Garage isnt big enough for the car. i need to knock down the wall and extend it about a metre and a half. shouldnt be too hard. my brother and his mates are all carpenters so they could probably help me extend it.

At the end of the day, with clutches i think you get what you pay for. don't pick the cheapest, mass produced clutch on the market because you'll find once your pushing 300+kw through it, its going to start to wear and have a short life. you don't need to be a brand whore, but if you talk to genuine people in the business that know their stuff and arent just trying to make a sale. you'll soon find out what is good and what isnt. simple little things like pivot point at which the clutch engages has a big effect on pedal feel. i'd say you're going to be up for $1500-$2000 for a full clutch kit which will be reliable and hold a fair amount of power. trust me, from my experience. do it right once, and not have to change or rebuild it every 12-18 months if you're after a single plate, i reccomend talking to Jim Berry. but if you're dying for a twin plate. probably go for a Nismo i went for single plate because it is cheaper to rebuild, whereas nismo can be costly for a rebuild kit. but sometimes you never know how long a clutch will last. if the material is good and all your pads are even then it should last a long time. but if they aren't all equal width like mine were when i had it rebuilt by someone other than Jim Berry (not mentioning names) it didnt last and because of the uneven wear the engagement wasnt very good at all, it would slip because the load wasnt evenly spread over all pads.

gotta love Friday GIF's Hanging out for 5 o'clock, picking up the keys to the new house!

I think these cams are the smallest duration that HKS do as an upgrade. They'd be a pretty good street cam IMO. the duration is longer than stock and the lift is better than stock. from my understanding the longer the duration the later the power will come on, so a 272 degree cam with same lift will come on much later and have some overlap at idle giving it a lumpy idle. i think 8.7mm lift shouldn't be a worry for the std springs, is there any reason why you're upgrading cams? are the stockers limiting power? i've got a stock head and std cams and am pushing 370rwkw so the std ones are definitely good for that level, and idle and response is the best its going to be.

Its a good idea, and would come in handy if you're doing long drives and are stuck with low fuel. I suppose i've just gotten use to filling up at the one servo and making sure i've got enough fuel to get me to where i'm going and back. even if it means filling up a jerry can in the boot.

i have to say, on E85 i dont really have much trouble starting my car in winter. the engine may have to crank over a couple more times than it would on PULP, but its nothing to really worry about. but i suppose its probably something some new car owner would complain that they can't turn the key for 1 second and plant their foot straight away leaving the Coles carpark. its interesting reading how this guy has made his car a Flex fuel car, but how often is he really going to change between the two fuels. once the novelty wears off he'll probably just use the one type and be done with it.

it would probably help if you put up your power levels, and use of the car. i've got a Jim Berry 'Montyzilla' in my 32 GTR and it handles 350+kw and is still soft on the pedal and has good progressive engagement (for car park speeds) i spoke with Jim and from what he told me the STD flywheel is better than the lightened ones because it doesnt make engagement so snappy, has something to do with the weight and the rotational force? for a street car you probably want a sprung centre clutch too, so you're not smashing through the gears so hard. from my experiences i've had the extreme clutch kit, 6 puk with stronger pressure plate and lightened flywheel. had it for around 2 years at 210kw and had it repadded, lasted about another year and 1 trackday and it was slipping. wasnt happy then i sent it to Jim Berry and he repadded it, changed the pressure plate fingers and i went to a STD flywheel and its the best its ever been. had it for just under a year and 1 track day use.

that sucks! My car has been towwed to boostworx about 4 times in the past 2 months. its been behaving itself recently, ever since the fuel pump's have been fully rewired. just ordered a Nismo engine mount kit for the GTR. and super pro gear box crossmember bush kit. hopefully it'll solve the clunky noises through the trans over bumps.

IMO the real bargain's are the houses for more than $300k, the missus and i have managed to get our house for $40k less than the owner purchased if for only 8 months earlier. adding in stamp duty the owner has lost nearly $70k over the past 8 months. we found that in the $300-$400k budget there weren't many houses staying on the market, they were getting snapped up quickly. but the ones $550-$600k were dropping every 4 weeks by at least $20k but i've been looking around the Glenelg, and surrounding suburbs area's other area's are going to be different.

SOLD

SOLD

That's funny, the missus and me are picking the keys up to our new place too on the 24th looking forward to it, but the GTR will have to stay at the missus mum's place cos the garage isnt big enough. soon will fix that though.

660cc Injectors (top feed) came off the R32 GTR Made 350rwkw with them, and still had headroom. good injectors, will fit STD rail, only getting rid of them due to going E85 $400 R34 GTR cooler bought off SLED years ago, upgraded to an ARC one recently. Made 370rwkw on e85 with it, flows well (apparently better than STD R32 & R33 GTR cores?) Looks better than the black 32 & 33 GTR cores the sensor bung for the cooler has been welded, 34 GTR's have a I/C temp sensor fins are in good condish $300

Here are some pics as you can see the core is in pretty good condition, no big bends in the fins. its a little dirty mainly cos i havent cleaned it since it was taken off by the mechanic. but it does scrub up nicely. here is one with it on the car you can see the core is good. also you can see where the bung for the temp sensor in a R34 GTR has been welded up because the R32 GTR doesn't have the sensor, as well as R33 GTR's CORE BACK CORE FRONT

Still Available!! See pics

I dont mind posting it interstate I dont have any photo's from the front of the car. the best ones i could find are attached. they're not very good and the car was dirty at the trackday. will look on the camera at home, might be some still on that? I'll get some pics of it tonight.

Bump! make an offer

Bump! Make an offer!

Weekend bump! Nobody want injectors capable of 350+kw??

Yeah mate, this cooler will bolt straight on, no modifications needed. just take off old one and put on the 34 GTR one. I'll try and get some photo's to you over the weekend. i would say that the cooler has had maybe 60,000kms useage in its life. there are no bent fins or damage to the core or end tanks. you'll see when i get the pics to you that its in pretty decent condition. you'll definitely like it better than the STD 32 GTR one, just cause its more visible not being black, and the 34 GTR cores are said to flow better. people have made up to 380kw with them, i had this one to 370kw

I'm not 100% sure? it was on the car when i bought it, and i've never gotten around the measure them. I'm trying to tee up with the exhaust bloke to maybe enlarge the merge if needed? i think from memory it merges larger than 3in and tapers down to 3in at the flange to the cat. I'll have to measure the front pipes when i get a chance. what would the front pipes need to be diameter wise? 2.25 or 2.5in