Brezza

to do the 3.5" exhaust, did you do it from the merge of the front pipes of just cat and cat back? i've been quoted up for a 3.5in piping cat back which is $600, this still uses my 3.5in muffler. the fuel lines weren't upgraded, just a second feed to the engine from the tank. most cars on e85 here have the surge tanks and twin 044's running 2 lines to the fuel rail. the second feed is the same thickness as the std line and runs next to it. i've probably gotta look at doing the exhaust before i spend money on cams and find i've just wasted more money.

Hi guys, Basically my current setup i'm pushing around the 360rwkw at 24psi on E85 Mods are: forged pistons std conrods race bearings (main & conrod) R33 GTR crank recond head STD cams 2860-5's MINES dump pipes aftermarket front pipe 3in decat & cat back with a 3.5in muffler 1000cc injectors 2x 500hp walbro fuel pumps intank upgraded fuel lines running to a larger fuel feed to supply the extra volume needed for e85 Nistune ECU Nismo AFM's ARC 70mm intercooler K&N air filter in STD airbox the car has great response, pulls very hard when on boost, but the dyno graph seems to flatline up high in the RPM the tuner has tried opening up the airbox but that makes no difference. the boost doesnt seem to hold at 24psi right through the rev range, it trails off to 20psi the tuner originally thought it may have been the STD intercooler i had which was limiting power, but when i changed to the slightly larger ARC one it made no difference. the tuner suspects that it may just be at the limit of the STD cams, people have said its the 3in exhaust but the tuner is certain that the 3in isnt the issue, as he's had cars with a 3in exhaust push 450kw so now i've been looking at drop in cams and have come accross the following: Tomei Poncams type B 260degree, 9.15mm lift HKS stage 1 272degree, 8.7mm lift camtech cams 272degree, 9.7mm lift kelford cams 272 degree, 8.95mm lift they're all roughly the same price for 272 cams, all about 800-900 bucks. I know the tomei ones are drop in and require no spring changes. but the others being longer duration and different lift some places are saying that you need titanium springs and retainers, which is adding another 500 to the price. i am just wondering whether from people's experience what duration and lift is the maximum you can go on std springs and retainers, so basically i am saying a true drop in cam. my tuner says that as long as you stay under 10mm lift you'll be fine with std springs, but the ramp rate does play a part because it can put more pressure on the spring and some say that the harmonics of the springs can cause power loss at certain points?? i know 272 is very different to a 260 or a 264, but i do want that lump in the cam and i do also want the added performance of a better breathing cam.

bump still for sale

Still for sale Open to reasonable offers!!

I had my motor built at Boostworx, and havent had any issues with it at all. its been going strong for 2.5years now and for the last 18 months its been a 300+kw RB26 When I was building mine all that time ago i asked Manta what they would charge and it was a little steep for me. But boostworx came within my budget

Mods will probably stop on the car and start on the house soon!

BUMP Still for SALE

Up for Sale is a STD R34 GTR intercooler core. I bought it off one of the SAU:SA execs years ago for my 32 GTR i have had it on my GTR which produced over 360rwkw with it. it is in great condition, looks much better than the STD 32/33 cores because its not sprayed black. Looks cool from the front. NOTE: will not fit a 34 GTR because the I/C sensor bung has been plugged and welded. $350.00 excl postage PM me or SMS 0421 125 183

Yes poor me! On another note! Anyone interested in a R34 GTR cooler? I originally bought it off SLED when he had his 34. the cooler has done 360+rwkw so it flows well and does a good job at cooling. also because its not sprayed black you can see it better than a STD R32&33 core. PM me

Okay the ARC intercooler didnt make any difference! Damn!! it probably cools better but obviously wasnt the thing causing the flow restriction. the only things left could be the STD cams or the 3in exhaust. i'd love the car to have a lumpier idle, but i think with possibly being a home owner in 4 weeks time is going to put a serious halt on getting cams. looks like i'll have to be satisfied with 365rwkw for a while.

Dohmar, if you're wondering what turbo's to get then you should listen to people with them and they probably would all tell you that any boost level under 18psi is probably not worth your while. its a too laggy setup for between 250-280rwkw. they start coming alive with 18psi. because then when they spool up they go hard!! i had my 2860's for ages, started on a stock motor and they were crap, laggy as full boost by 5000rpm and only made 210rwkw on 14psi. this was with all stock ecu fuel pump and injectors. with a rebuild motor the comp was much better cos it wasnt so tired. it managed 250rwkw with still std ecu and 14psi it wasnt until i got my nistune and injectors and fuel pump that i could push 18psi into it and thats when they came alive. i ran 320rwkw on boostworx dyno. IMO they're a good turbo for the compromise between a mid 300kw car that you still want to use on the street. so if you want response and are not looking to be in the 300 club then don't buy them, stick with your N1's or go for -7's or -9's

Could any of you blokes let me know at what level the std RB26 conrods tend to break. I'm pushing high 300's with my GTR and the tuner said that on e85 the torque produced could be too much for the std rods to handle. the motor has forged pistons etc but i left the rods std because when i had it built i didnt think i was going to attempt to push for 400kw

so it doesnt seem like the issues with my GTR were the fuel filter blocked or fuel pumps busted. the wiring to the 2 intank pumps was fried, the load had melted the wires which kinda explains why the car would only run for 10 secs then stall. i must've been lucky that they were still connecting when it did run. well i suppose you can't expect much from 22 year old wiring. going to now run the thicker wire through the tank straight to the pump as well as a thicker earth.

It could be a possibility? but i think its a little harder to get to that 500rwhp mark. 400rwhp is easy, most GTR's with a simle upgraded turbo like the 2860's will hit 300kw with injectors, fuel pump with an ECU change. then you have to look at AFM's to get more, then for me at around 370rwkw i'm getting flow issues. don't know whether its an exhaust or STD intercooler. I'm pumping 23psi through -5's and am stuck at 370rwkw, i have a ARC cooler to go on so hopefully it'll help the top end. other than that it could be exhaust (3in) or the fact that i still have STD cams. every motor is different, i think it also makes a difference how they've been put together. there is another GTR that was built at the same place as mine with almost identical parts. but mine was put together by the owner and the other one was built by a worker that doesnt work there anymore. and mine makes more power than his and is better over the whole power curve. But if your goal is 500rwhp then be prepared to pay the big $$$ for little gains. I've found with my GTR to get over 350rwkw costs much more than it does to get to 350rwkw. just my 2c

There's definitely an E85 shortage in Adelaide. United have stopped selling it, Caltex is the only one selling it at the moment. Hopefully the ethanol supply picks itself up after the floods in QLD

I dont think that you'll be noticing much difference. pull your cat out and see how it looks, if you can see light through it then its going to flow well. the only time a cat is going to cause and issue is if it is collapsed. as far as people saying you gain 30kw going to straight pipe, its probably on cars with well over 300kw. and maybe their cat wasnt flowing well enough and causing a restriction. but at 230kw a 3in highflow cat should be fine even up to over 300kw.

are the blast pipes still available? what size is the entry?

Cheers mate Rec'd today, looks to be wrapped well. from what i can see its in good condition. hopefully it performs well.

stick with the stock intercooler I'm at 360-370rwkw on mine on E85 when i had it on PULP is reached 350rwkw You'll be able to run over 300rwkw consistently with the stock unit.

is this still for sale? PM me

Go for the NEW Nismo AFM's, i was trying to put off getting them because of the cost. But really, you have to see the benefits 1 - they fit up as stock (air box, apexi pods, etc) 2 - they're new, so they should last a good 10-15years at least 3 - they allow so much more flow to be reliably measured My missus WRX had the engine go in it, and it was because it was running stupidly lean because the AFM wasn't reading properly and leaned the mixtures out. it cost her $7,500 for the engine and she still had to get a new AFM. the AFM was a $250 part and because it was stuffed it caused over $7k damage. the question i asked myself is, do i really want to skimp and save a couple hundred dollars and still effectively run a 20 year old AFM or go for a brand newie and not risk having any major issues caused by the AFM's

I've got Tien Super Streets for my BNR32 GTR Are you willing to trade?

Still for sale

I find with the RB its usually a safe bet to get something 10w-40, i use the Motul 8100 Max which is the new stuff. pretty cheap and i change it fairly often. i usually change the oil after about 2-3months depending on how the car has been used. street vs hard hills runs vs track day. i have gauges for oil pressure and oil temp so i can usually tell when the oil is getting a little old by the oil pressure. the fresh oil tends to be better for warming up and has a lower psi when cold and perfect when warm. but when its a little old the psi spikes to 110psi under boost and drops under 20psi idle warm. plus another good check is to get some oil between your fingers and slowly move them appart which will give a rough idea to the thickness of the oil.

I hit 370rwkw on e85 with the following setup 2860-5's 2 x walbro intank fuel pumps 1000cc injectors Nistune ECU NISMO AFM's STD Airbox STD R34 GTR intercooler 3in exhaust Turbosmart E-Boost street STD cams & cam gears I've got a Jim Berry Clutch in mine and its great!! i dont know how your turbo's would go compared with mine? but you dont need to change intercooler for 350rwkw, and a 3in will do 350 easily i am finding at the moment that the STD cams, STD intercooler are holding me back from more power and maybe the exhaust too. i am pretty happy with the setup now. the only difference in running e85 compared with PULP is the need for a bigger fuel system. i had 350rwkw on PULP before going to e85 and the only change i made was going from 660cc injectors to 1000cc injectors 1 x walbro fuel pump to 2 x walbro fuel pumps STD fuel lines & rail to a second fuel line from the pump to the rail and mod the rail to suit retune with more boost and enjoy the added midrange. you will probably notice the biggest difference in midrange going from PULP to e85