Brezza

I've got my 1000cc injectors, After having a chat with my mechanic & tuner i've decided to go for twin walbro's in tank, seeing as i've already got one that's only been in there for a year. he's gonna try and fiddle with the mounting of the two pumps in the stock cradle and i'll be running a second fuel line for the second pump down the car to the fuel rail. so with luck the job shouldnt be too difficult and it should flow enough e85 for my power goals and hopefully a fair bit more torque over the whole power band. hopefully not too much torque that i break my gearbox or std rods! In regards to plugs, with e85 do you still have to gap the plugs down? also how long should i wait to change my fuel filter after running e85? i've heard that i should change the fuel filter after a few weeks or a couple tanks of e85 because it can clog the filter with gunk from the tank? i realise that if my tank is clean the filter's will be fine, but how long should i wait before changing them?

Some 14mm injectors can be modified to fit an 11mm rail. My 660cc rochester ones were 14mm and my tuner shaves a little off the sides to make them fit. But it doesnt look like these ones can be modified to fit?

Yeah, if you could find out who the kit was through it would be appreciated!! I'm just wondering how difficult it would be to modify the cradle and put together a bracket for the twin pumps to sit in? also at what limit have people found the std fuel lines to run out of flow? what power levels do you have to run twin lines? Cheers,

Hi Guys, I am going to modify my R32 GTR to run E85, my 1000cc injectors just turned up today! And I have been trying to search around for fuel supply options for E85 I have currently got the following mods: Rebuilt RB26 with forged internals 2860-5's Nismo AFM's full 3in exhaust 660cc injectors Walbro fuel pump Turbosmart E-Boost Street std intercooler K&N Filter in airbox It made 350rwkw on a dyno dynamics @ 21.5psi and made 317rwkw on a mainline dyno @ 20psi Most people have told me that i'd need twin pump and surge tank setup to really make benefit of e85. but i want to try and steer clear from a surge tank in the boot because i've heard that there is fuel smell issues. so an under car surge tank would be an option but there is very limited room underneath a R32, so where have people mounted surge tanks under the car if they have. Also have anyone used any twin intank pump setups? This would be the most attractive for me because it would be more simpler. I have done track days and may do 2-3 a year, so its not a purpose track car. i dont drive it regularly hence fuel ecconomy and availability isnt much of an issue for me. Even if i were to take it to the track again i would take my 3 20L jerry cans and make sure the fuel level doesnt drop below 1/2 a tank. so fuel surge isnt going to be a problem on track. So if anybody has any results with a twin pump setup in tank please share it with me, it seems to be popular with the BMW guys, and on other forums like the WRX & EVO ones. Cheers,

yeah i'll definitely be there!

are there any single intank pumps that will flow enough for e85? i'm not looking at pushing huge power, my GTR is around the 350rwkw mark now on 100octane but i'm wanting to put 1000cc injectors on and run e85 to see if i can get a little more out of the mid range and probably aim for 380rwkw cheers,

I'll be there with a bunch of mates. bring on the german food! gotta love those cheese kranski's

I'll be up for this!

FOR SALE R32 GTR Calipers (Painted Gold) Front $150 Rear $50 RDA Slotted Rotors to suit R32 GTR (non Brembo) $200 a pair 296mm front 280mm rear I have both front and rear, they have never been tracked. haven't even had them long enough to be needing machining. Plenty of thickness left!

Chromoly Flywheel to suit a RB26 GTR I think that it'll suit a RB25 aswell? never been machined, $100

HEL Braided Brake Lines SOLD Pending Payment! All other items still for sale PM me if you are interested in particular parts as I am willing to part these full set out Cheers

Its so frustrating how many people blame cars (or high powered cars especially) for accidents when its almost always the fault of the monkey behind the wheel. the worst accident i have witnessed was one where a young bloke was drunk and had hit a stobie pole with his 1980's Holden Camira, not exactly your performance vehicle. he was obviously speeding and it was a wet night and had literally wrapped the car around the pole, the pole had crushed in as far as the handbrake. Can't exactly blame that incident on high powered cars. Speed + Stupidity, Ignorance or Inexperience + Wet weather = not good Driver training days are the best thing you can do to really know your abilities and your cars limits. After doing the training day at Mallala I was able to safely push the limits of my car and abilities and now after spinning out and locking the brakes i know where those limits are and know to stay clear of them on public roads because there are far too many obstacles on the side of public roads. i wouldnt want to risk sliding off the road and crashing my car into anything which will cost me thousands so public roads are a place to be sensible and race track is purpose built for fun in a safe environment. It'd be damn nice to get another race track closer than Mallala

Yeah i had braided lines made up, the HEL ones didnt fit properly apparently so the bloke who removed my ABS sourced some ADR approved ones. I'm running Martini GS 610 brake fluid in the car, so it should most definitely be up to the task. Nah the rotors are std ones, they were low on material too, some were .5mm and others were .2mm off minimum thickness. I'm also still running the stone guards, will be cutting them off when i put on some RDA slotted rotors. will be going for the RDA ones because they're probably best value for money. haven't heard stories of them cracking. Has anyone run Hawk HT-10 pads before? i'm looking into buying some for track days from the US, they're too expensive here, i can save an easy $100 each end on buying from the US

Hey Guys, I've got a set of these HEL braided lines for a R32 GTR non brembo brakes. I bought them through this group buy and had bought some R34 brembo's for my R32 before I had the chance to install them. So if anyone is after a set of brand newies for a R32 GTR PM me. $100 incl postage. I will check to see if they're compatible for any other car?

Still available, Price Drop $600

I'm not trying to bag the A1RM's completely, they held up quite well to the task. and they're right on the money being a transition pad between street and track. Yeah Madaz you're right the car is heavier than a GTS-t and has 350kw. Even the instructor noticed small brake fade after 2 laps but he was pushing much harder than me. The only place i found the brakes to fade was after the hairpin coming around the sweeper and braking into the esses, two big stops in a row was a little hard on the brakes. Cant wait for the next track day, clutch is being installed later on this week! its slipping bad on takeoff.

I've just killed my ceramic extreme clutch. bought it with kevlar buttons and noticed that it was worn down when i did my engine rebuild. so i rebuilt the clutch at the same time with ceramic pads, but now after 1.5years it is stuffed. it hasnt started slipping yet, but the pedal after one track day is only biting literally mm's before i take my foot off the pedal completely, and at the start of the day it was biting in the middle of the pedal swing. I've got it booked in for it to be removed and I'm sending it off to Jim Berry to get him to turn it into one of his "Full Monty" clutches. It was alright when running 300rwkw but at 350rwkw it started to cause me a little bit of grief. Hopefully Jim can put together a clutch that will last me. the current one is an extreme HD 6 button clutch with the stronger pressure plate and chrome flywheel.

The day was fun as!!! Cheers to everyone who organised it, Learn't a bit about my car, and also what its capable of with a experienced driver behind the wheel. The instructor pushed the car harder than I've ever had the guts to. Sucked through plenty of fuel, but got a heap of laps done. No overheating issues with the car, all water and oil temps stayed low. oil didnt even budge over 90, thanks cheap oil cooler kit! Spun out twice in the wet, ran off into the dirt once at the hairpin when i tried my luck at hitting 180 and braking late! haha the only things i would possibly change is get some proper track pads, in the wet the A1RM's were fine. but in the dry after 3 hard laps they needed to cool down. Will be definitely removing stone guards and replacing the clutch to a twin plate. my clutch is the only part that really suffered a beating! before the day i had the pedal adjusted so that the clutch engages around the middle of the release of the pedal, and at the end of the day it only engages just a few mm before my foot is off the pedal. Highly recommend for anyone else to do the course! Will be keen to do it again. I only managed 1m34s and it was at the begining of the day, and my first time out there.

Hey Guys, Does anyone here have an ADR approved helmet that i could borrow for the day? I was going to borrow my brothers mates helmet but that's fallen through. My number is 0421 125 183 I am not on here all the time so get me on my mobile. Cheers,

I'll have to post mine up soon.

See my sig! I got 351rwkw using Nistune Just make sure you've got the right supporting mods

It really depends on your power level. I'm running a 3in exhaust from cat back. and putting out 350rwkw i've got a 3in decat, 3.5in muffler and a aftermarket front pipe. its a pretty straight design with minimal bends. it does the job! i think if i were heading for closer to the 400rwkw mark i would be looking into a 4in exhaust or at least a 3.5in i also think that some people get confussed thinking that a bigger exhaust will allow faster spool up, but that's only true if the current exhaust is a restriction at that rpm and load point, which i would higly doubt that a 3in is a restriction at 4,000rpm. it'd be a restriction up higher and when 25psi or more boost starts pumping through the motor. it might make your decision easier to listen to what a car with a 3in sounds like vs a 4in exhaust, i like my 3in because its quiet enough to not attract too much attention and if flows well enough for my needs.

Hey mate, I reckon you should go and see Shaun @ Boostworx, he's a great tuner. the graph doesnt really tell all that much? but i'm assuming that you're using a bleed valve to up the boost? if thats the case then the boost curve looks about right, i had a bleed valve on my GTR, it was peaking at 19psi then dropping to 18psi gradually like your's has. i now have an EBC, it hold 21psi flat all the way to redline, but its cost me! for your aim's i'd say stick with the bleed valve. as far as tuning goes, if you've still got a stock ECU then get a Nistune, they're cheap and probably best bang for buck ECU out there. I'm running one in my GTR and its great! if you just wanna check that the car is running okay then throw it on a dyno and check AFR's and whether there is any knock. that's what's really going to kill your engine (excessive knock or lean AFR's)

Shoot me a PM with a price and I'll decide whether to sell or not

Depends on all the above, if you have fuel system to support more than 14psi then i wouldnt be pushing much past 18psi on a built motor and supporting fuel system you might get away with 20psi high boost. just make sure that your AFR are correct for the boost level you're running, there is no point running 18psi if you cant give the motor enough fuel for that amount of air