studricho

Very true that. I'm actually a mechanic by trade and I rebuild bikes engine often. 4 cylinder 4 strokes that rev to 19,000 rpm so I really need to pay attention to detail. The guy at the shop had a bit of a laugh when I turned up with all the parts that I had removed in snap lock bags individually labeled. It's a bit off a ocd thing at times and makes every job easier. I've learned over the years that you don't know when you'll get back to that project, so best to make it simple for yourself. The good news the boys at drive line gears at wollongong stayed back friday night (long weekend) and managed to get the gearbox back to me. Me and a few mates got it all back in and going. it feels like I'm driving a different car even though I'm taking it easy for the first 100klms I can already tell that I've found my noise issues. All new bearings, syncro's, seals, oil and a shift fork has made a world of difference. Now I can play with the car much further as this issues has been holding me back from getting other things done and I look forward to running it on the dyno/quarter mile. Thanks goes to all the guys that have posted on this thread as your help has been greatly appreciated and I hope that this thread serves to help others in the future. See you guys on the road.

I actually piked out of rebuilding myself due to the fact that they (gearbox place) would strip it down, inspected and rebuild for about $400. For me it would take twice as long, buy a press (around $350), bearing plates to press of the bush and I would still be asking whether I should change this or that... The gearbox shop called me today and he confirmed that a few bearings are goneski, so all new bearings, sycro's and one fork. All up it will be about $1,500 for my reco box. I did save myself some money taking out the gearbox and I got to see inside the box.

Actually it was a bit longer due to my first time on this box and a seized dowl pin. I went and looked at the gearbox today and there's a few bearings that are noisy/clunky so hopefully that is the noise. He also suggested to replace the synco's and one fork while he was at it. Makes sense while the box is out and at least I will have peace of mind that it's all good. I should get it back by the end of the week.

Here's some pictures of my efforts since Sunday.. I've found the bearing that holds the cluster shaft in the bell housing to have issues, but luckily I've got to it in time and it hasn't spun in the bell housing or mark the cluster shaft. It feels like the bearings in the in middle are also stuffed, so I will cart this to my local gear box guy so he can fix it. I've done as much as I could without tooling up for a one off job. I also cleaned all the parts and labeled sandwich bags that contain all the parts. Now the waiting game will be begin...

Well I have the gearbox out and halve pulled apart. Now my local gearbox guy is busy as I want this up and running asap. Thanks for all your tips and I'll let you know how I go..Cheers Paul. I don't think this will be a walk in the park either.

Thanks for your input so far. I really hope I haven't worn the hard casing of the shafts... The noise goes away from idle when I put in the clutch. It's a new clutch, pressure plate and thrust bearing by the way. From what your telling me it sounds like I could be opening a can of worms with my gearbox. When I change the gearbox oil last time they also added some addictive to the gearbox oil and that made a huge difference to the over all noise of the gearbox.

Thanks for the info. Bit of history. The gearbox was running without much oil in it just idling and a very short drive until we heard the noise and checked the oil level. This is my engine bay and as you can see it's very tight in there and not being the original motor/gearbox for this car no one is really keen to take it own. I still don't know if I can get it out without dropping the engine. The noise from the gearbox bearing is getting worse and seems to go away the higher the gear selected. That indicates that it's from the input shaft bearing. Gear selections are fine apart from 2nd crutch when it's still cold sometimes. I'll take it out and see what is damaged or needs replacing. Looks like I'll be doing it next mid or next weekend. I need to car for Mon-Wed.. The guy from town quoted me $500 for the bearing kit. Doesn't sound right. Any online suppliers that you trust for the parts.

I've searched and search this forum and the internet, but no gold. Basically the R33 gearbox in the Torana is getting very noisy and it almost sounds like it's rattling. I built a few gearboxes ages ago and I have done many bike engine/gearboxes, so I've decided to take this one myself. I've been quoted $500 for a bearing/gasket kit and $500 to install it. They can't even quote me to remove the gearbox from my car cause it's not the standard engine/gearbox combo. So basically I would like some info on a bearing/gasket kit and if anyone has done this before. Also is there any special tool that I need for the job? Did you guys want me to post up pictures of when I do rebuild it?

I also from the gong, but I drive a holden torana with a RB25DET in it. I'd love to catch up with fellow members and talk cars. I've sent you a pm.

Thanks. I didn't know which section to post it in as I couldn't find a project section. Thanks Ben. We actually used the original engine/under dash harness from the half cut, but we stripped it right back to only what we needed and what we may need in the future including some spares for future installs. I haven't taken it on the dyno yet. I having some gearbox noise issues and some other rattles. There use to be a shop down in the gong that specialist with skylines, but they have closed down. I would like to do a track day in the car to see what it can do around eastern creek compared to my bike. Like I mentioned before, I want to get issues sorted out first.

I gave the engine bay a degrease and bath today, so I thought I'd post up a picture... I've been driving the car everywhere and apart from some strange noises it's great to drive.

I've been reading this thread and even though I get pretty good fuel economy (approx 10L/100 klms) on the highway I have a question for the guru's out there. From what I beleive I have a series 2 RB25DET in my torana, but I don't have an exhaust sensor fitted to my car. The car runs pretty good, the exhaust is a nice colour, the plugs look nice too. How important is the exhaust temp sensor? Is it purely for the dash indicator? Sorry for the silly questions..Just need to know.

Great thread and read. I've been having idle issues with my RB25 engine, but after having a look at this thread I decided to clean the aac valve, but I don't think I have the room in my engine bay to remove it. It looks like i would have to either take out the wiper motor (huge task in itself) or drop out the engine. Remember my engine is in a torana.. Anyway i decided to remove the hose that goes back into the cross over manifold and spray subaru upper engine cleaner in it. This stuff works better than any carby cleaner on the market. Put it back on and start it. So far, so good. no more idle issues, no more stalling when I stop or back off. I've driven the car for about an hour and it would of have this issue within 10 mins. I thought I'd post up another option to clean this without removing it. Thanks again for this thread.

I've been driving the car nearlly every day and I'm loving it. It's such a good car to cruise in and when you want to go you just put your foot down. Still some little teething issues, but nothing major. I'll have to check out the cruise section and come out on a cruise night to meet some SAU members and have a chin wag. I have made a scoop for the standard inter cooler and installed a turbo smart boost tee. I'm running abit more boost than standard and I'm very happy with the power. I'd like more though...It's like an addiction. The gearbox makes some funny noise, so looks like I may have to remove it and rebuild it. I don't think that will be easy in my engine bay. You get that.

Have you tried itchban? I bought one for $3,400...

Sorry, I got no headlights with the front cut. The good news is that the car is registered...Yippee

Thanks for all the replies so far. We did find one issue tonight..Over boosting. I found that the standard boost solenoid has an issue. I bypass this and now the boost/waste gate is working as it should. It's still surges a bit, but much better to drive now. I had a quick look at the timing tonight cause I've changed the timing belt before the engine went in. I don't think it's right so I'll see someone about it. I need to check the fuel filter as this car has been off the road for nearlly 9 years. Even though the filter was new when I put this engine in it may be full of junk. Is there someone in the gong that you could recommend?

Is it possible to clean it?

That's what I think too. Now just to find the wires....

I have finished my car and this was left out. My sparky said I didn't need as it was for the boost gauge for the dash. To me it looks like a map sensor and it could be the cause of the issues with my car. Please go easy on me as I'm a complete noob when it comes to RB25 engines. The symptoms are- -Weird idle once the car is warm -Breaks up on light throttle over 4,000 rpm -Forget about any hard throttle..not happy. From my understanding this device coverts manifold pressure into an electrical impulse for the computer to make it's adjustments..correct me if I'm wrong. By the way. I'm running everything standard R33 stuff. Your help would be fantastic. I have diagrams, but I can't find it. Anyone have a pinout number for the computer on this by any chance? -

Update 11/01/09 The plan is to have the car registered by the 26/01/09, so that only gives about 2 weeks. My back is at a really good place at the moment which allows me to work hard and fast. I still need to be careful with any bending. Anyway, this what we (I had help) have done.. -Clean and painted tappet covers -New tappet cover rubbers -Painted the coil cover -Starting running wires from headlights to inside the car -Cut and shut the VL fan shroud to fit There little ugly things still in the engine bay, but that can be later. That aint gunna stop the car getting registered.. Sparky is coming tomorrow morning and getting stuck into it. Some pictures..

True. You can use some anit sieze to prevent this or I may be able to get zinc plated screws. Thanks for the parts number. Now to get some in and start chasing up what I can do...I'll keep you posted.

Part number for that seal on the tappet cover that the hold down bolts go through. Item 12364D

I found a place that can make seals to order. Now I need either a part number for that seal or someone to sell me a new one.

I'll see what my supplier can do for us. Lol it sounds like we are talking about drugs. I did like the carbon fairings, very nice. Yeah just PM me when your ready for the bolts.