studricho

I know that I'm pretty new around here, but bare with me. I'm looking to put together some tappet cover bolt kits which would include the following, -20 Stainless Steel allen key button head bolts -20 Rubber seals for the bolt -20 Stainless steel washers. I'm in the process of chasing up these parts with my supplier at the moment for my own car. I put together bolt kits for CBR250 for the fairings and screens. Now because I buy in bulk for my CBR kits it brings the price down a fair bit. I make a little money and I also sell them at a great price to CBR forum members. To date I think i have sold about 50 or so bolt kits with no issues. My questions are. -Do the RB20,25 and 26 use the same bolts and the amount of them? -How many people would be interested in kits? (more people keen, the cheaper it can become) -What sort of price range would you guys be happy to pay for these kits? (considering that from what I have researched the rubber seals alone from nissan will set you back $30 for the 20 off them) Here's a picture of what I had in mind. Standard bolt compared to the original bolt. Just an idea what it would look like fitted to the rubber seal. A side profile and here you can see the difference in length of the bolt/shank and also the width of the shank. I spoke to my supplier and I can't get a blot with a 7mm shank like the standard item. The shank size on the stainless steel bolt shown is just over 8mm. That's why I would have to go with new washers/seals. I'm looking for honest input and I will go ahead for bolts on my own car first. I know that these bolts are highly visible, but if your like me it's like the icing on the cake. After viewing many engine bay pictures it just looks out of place with very beautiful detail/painted engine bays and crappy phillips head screws. Looking forward to any feedback.. Paul.

Work on the car has come to a huge stop at the moment. I just had back surgery on the 25/11/08 and I won't be able to touch the car until mid January. I was going for it to get it all done before I have the operation, but once I found out that I couldn't drive the car until mid/late January I have left it. Operation went well and I was back on my feet the next day and home the day after. I just want to make sure that my back is 100% before playing with car again. I'm so keen to drive this car. I saw a whole group of Skylines near my place and I was thinking if it was people from here. I also imagine cruising in the future with you guys (if you don't mind). So bloody close now....so close.

Well it seems I have brakes now. Picking up the car tomorrow and I'm so glad that I decided to get these guys to do the lines and sort out all the brakes. The guy working on the my car owns a LX hatch. He work is very neat and loves a challenge. I still don't know how the hell he got the brake line between the fire wall and the engine. He also kept me posted and asked me to come down to make sure I was happy with his work and what he was up too. Anyway some pictures... Here you can see just how close the master cylinder is to the inlet manifold. He used a banjo bolt with a flexible hose down to a custom bracket welded on the chassis under the guard. He made sure nothing will touch. Brake line from L/H rear wheel. He used the breather hole to support the new splitter and swap the diff breather to the other side. Picture of the type of flexible lines used for the front brakes. Here's the brake line from the L/H front. You can see that he used a special clip fitting for the hose to line connection. Just a random picture of the inter cooler and how it fits under the guard/rail. I also picked up my brand new gearbox speedo drive unit for a mechanical speedo drive.

I managed to get some work done under the car ready for the brake guys tomorrow. I've taken some pictures so you guys could the amount of work that has gone into this car... Here you can see the 9 inch diff, boxed in control arms, new bushes and heavy duty lowered springs. Here's a picture of the fuel pump set up. It was taken from a donor VL years ago. It clears all moving suspension parts and I did this set up in my single car garage..was not fun I can tell you. I need to chase up the new link pins/bushes for the rear sway bar. Another pump picture set up. Picture of the heavy duty tail shaft and the exhaust system. Rear UC calipers and HZ disc and HZ reaction flange. Calipers have been rebuilt, new hoses, new pads and the discs machined. The springs and shocks were a second set from ebay. the rear sits about 15 higher than I want and I'd like to change to pedders sports riders down the track. Also having them painted the same colour as the car will be on my to do later list. Another rear shot showing detail under car..It will be weird when this car is done and registered..What will I do then? Drive it...

I was searching the internet for this very reason and I came upon this thread. I called someone and they said it's on the turbo side of the block on a pad towards the rear near where the gearbox mounts on.

NickR33, I was thinking of making something up to scoop the cold air for IC. Just let me get the thing regietred first. The car brakes are drums all round. I have replaced the linings with new ones...just kidding. The brakes are massive. 4 wheel disc, vented discs up front and VL turbo master cylinder.. Some pictures of the work in progress.. Making the rats nest tidy again... You can see the wires crossing from RB25 harness to the UC harness. I still need to sort out the tacho.. What is different about this dash? The size difference between the R33 charcoal canister and the UC. Picked up the car from exhaust shop. It sounds really nice. Not loud at all. A slight rumble... Some interior pictures. It was done about 10 years ago and really bad back then. It's fallen apart, so it will have to do until funds permit getting some fresh stuff done. The head lining, door tops and around the quarter windows are newish. I have some spare trims that I can get redone once funds permit...we all know about this..

After some searching and reading it seems that is the way to go. I'll see if I can get a video of exhaust on car on thursday, depends on my mate as my editing/uploading skills suck. I'm so keen to drive this car..Even if it's stock, it will be so much fun..

That would be great. Smallish update..I'm going hammer and tong to get this car all done before December. The exhaust is getting done along with the inter cooler pipes. The car is booked in for the brake lines to be made and fitted. A question regarding exhaust system. 3 inch from turbo to hi flow cat and then 2.5 inch to the tip. Does that sound right?? Apparently if I go 3 inch back from the cat it will be very droney in the car..I don't want that at all... I'll do a search now..

The sparky has finished his work under the bonnet, so now I can start doing whatever I need in the engine bay. The car drove very well and smooth. There was also tire skip and I think it's due to the old rack up front that's stuffed. I can't get over how good the car looks and how close it is to being finished.... And the picture....

Gee the tail shaft guy was quick. Called me today and he said it was ready. I only dropped off the uni's and measurements to him yesterday at about 11am. He called me at 10.30 am to let me know it was done... Anyway, tail shaft in and I made a new clutch pipe from the clutch cylinder to the slave and clutch is working. I also picked up some VYSS 17" rims and tires. 2 tires are nearlly new and the other 2 need replacing. There's a few scratches of the rims, but for $320 for the set, how do you complain? Here's a sneak peak at what it looks like on...I should be able to drive the car out of the shed under it's own power. That is progress. Can you tell that I'm excited? I wasn't sure at first, but I really like the rims and the colour now...you like?

LSD 9 inch 3.55 ratio with 17" rims. I'm running the R33 5 speed.

Wollongong

Bugger!

As in sliding around trouble or red and blue disco lights trouble? This car is being built for towing and just a good all rounder car to drive. I love to go a power cruise in it.

If your taling about my car, It was painted by a local painter in woonona. The colour itself is the secret. Kinda glows in the right light. You should see this colour near snow...

Here's my RB25 in a torana engine bay. I was thinking about getting the cam covers painted the same colour as the car, but it may look gay...dunno yet. What do you guys think? It's funny how there seems to be more room in here than a skyline engine bay, but once you get near the chassis rails it's very tight..

Apart from the power steering pump and the struts the rest is up for grabs for nothing. Someone come and clear this junk for free! I'm sure there's more stuff in the shed that I don't need. Pick up only...First in best dressed.

Now I'm scared. I ordered a reco 9 inch 3.55 lsd centre and I will be running 17" VY SS rims. I'm really pushing to get this car done by December. I'll see how I go..Mony being the biggest hurdle followed by time.

Cause it's pink? I like riding a pink 250 track bike and passing bigger bikes on the turns...very funny stuff as they try and catch you.

It's been ages since i made a reply to this thread. Heaps of work has been done since my last post, so I'll let the pics tell the story.... The engine now starts and runs. Sounds great straight from the turbo..

I also found a power steering pump for the same car. Need to clear away this junk from shed...Anyone?

Driver guard from a R33 series 1 with some transport damage as shown. Passenger guard from the same car, also has some transport damage as shown. I need to get rid of all my skyline parts as shown in this thread asap. I can post, but it will involve some packing and you'll need to organise a courier from your end. I live near a panel beater so i should be able to get some boxes for the guard(s). Make an offer on the lot. Call me on 0432171482.

Stay away from zzr, you'll get bored in a week. The cbr250 on the other hand is so much fun. Check this out.. -4 cylinder 4 stroke 250 that revs to 19,000rpm -16 valve gear driven cams with scissor gears to cut down on noise -4 carbies and an induction noise due to cam timing overlap that will excite you. -0-100klm/h in about 5.2 seconds and the quarter mile in about 14.5s. -4.4 litres per 100klms travelled if you don't kill everywhere -These motors are almost bullet proof. The above specs are for the cbr250rr. Go for the import model, they are easier to find and about $1,500 less than aussie model. They also have about 45bhp compared to aussie spec of 40 bhp. You can pick up a CBR250RR anywhere between $2,000 to $6,000 depending on condition. Get onto cbr forum and you could met some members near you that are willing to help you find a cbr. the site is www.cbr250.com You know what to do next.

That's interesting about the 200ZR cause they have the rear hump sump. I bought a sump, pick up and pick up gasket straight from the states delivered for $303. that's a brand new nissan factory sump. Castlemain rod shop wanted $500 and you had to pay postage and send vn sump and rb sump. Maybe this guy in the states might be able to help you with your car? By the way, i bought the sump so the RB25DET will fit into a torana. It needed a little mod, but still out in front by heaps.

Stuff on ebay now aswell due to lack of interest.