Gerg_R31

in short what ever car your trying to sell, realistic price is only 1/4 of what you think its worth

awesome, i think my 26/30 is killing the non syncro rb20/30 gearbox, will upgrade to the rb25 in the new year, just hope it can last

Did you get your 25/30 back together? How'd it go?

Balance your crank rods flywheel and pressure plate to prevent unwanted vibrations at high revs that will cause problems Neo 25 heads i have seen here at the machine shop i work at vary from 52-55cc's non neo 25 & 26 heads I've seen vary from 63-66cc's

You forgot the 31's (i fixed it) And exactly my point with the mods

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?38795-NSW-2011-ALL-Japan-Day-Sydney http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150482597628273.432960.609788272&type=1&l=0fdb55f000 http://www.larmour-photo.com/wp/?p=197

Nothing new yet, Got some holidays that are coming up in early Jan, might visit a track or something try and get some vids But I got some more pics from the All Jap Day... https://www.facebook...RIncPhotography http://www.nissansil...=0#entry6450906 http://www.facebook....192043784209148 (ha and mines the album cover) http://forum.jdmstyl...apan-Day-Sydney

I thought my post was quite relevant to the re sale value of a modified car

But not ideal way to do it in a back yard

Bought my r31 for $2000, spent about 20k on parts for my heavily worked n/a 26/30, computer, suspension, wheels, brakes, body kit, etc. with the every dollar you pay for parts, you will add 30 cents to the value so my 31 would be valued at about 8k but would prob sell for around 6k if i was to ever sell it (never would, rather auction it off to charity first)

A guy in s.a on the 31 forums had his gts1 stolen, it was thrashed and recovered after a month and many police fumbles, so don't loose hope number plates? Police contact details if someone spots it?

Good stuff, keep us updated

Just to add if you got 3 longer studs then that probably the Rb25/30 kit only difference, and you really should have it line honed to recorrect the roundness but elite racing has said everything i would have and with the locktite id recommend to run a tap through the threads to clean out excess lock tite

If this is a budget build then i recommend to do a bit more research and save a bit more coin to do the job properly the first time, with using all the right parts Links below, 1 is a tutorial i wrote up to give the basic understanding of engine internals 2nd is a link to the tutorial section, there is alot of useful information there other members have written up 3rd is the members project threads, look what others have done and see what ideas you can use or adapt things they've done for your intentions http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/378823-engine-internals-comp-ratios-general-info/page__pid__6104330#entry6104330 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/57-tutorials-diy-faq/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/190-projects-overhauls-and-build-ups/

They have 10-12cc smaller chamber, it is pretty much the same as putting a vct head on, make sure you get the right pistons to suit or your comp will be too high for turbo only oil line that doesn't line up is the vct feed, have it welded as grub screwing it will leak

Its 85% ethanol and if you don't have the right parts it is highly corrosive and will damage everything the fuel touches. If you have all the right parts plus tune to suit, it can be beneficial

At our workshop we use tomeii kinetic and camtech though to me they're all the same just different names neo 25s; biggest we've put in is rb26 10.8mm lift cams, a lot of modifying was needed (machining bottom of cam follower buckets, machining top of litter bores, springs to suit, eliminating vct) difference between turbo and n/a cams are usually just lobe separation Changing cams on their own can cause more dramas then they're worth, re tuning fuel maps, changing to make sure springs suit, cam gears to make sure they're timed properly regrinds don't usually have very much difference from stock cams picking aftermarket cams i recommend to choose them based on their rev range for what the car will be used for, going the biggest possible will give you top end power but the trade off is lack of power when its "off cam" or cam lag if you want to call it that. hope that info helps

Over tensioned belt maybe?

wow alot more then i thought, or spotted.... then again my experience is really only with engine internals (bare with me im trying to catch up ) oh and found more pics http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=513864&st=0#entry6450906

My charger is still in the states somewhere (next project) 225.6 rwhp, yup 26/30 ram tubes and stuff, details of it in my build thread (in my signature) Back on topic, was there anyone else playing spot the difference with the aus spec 32?

They're not my pictures, just a link to someone else's camera work

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13733 more pics here

found 2 so far, borrowed these from kev from http://japanesenosta...pic.php?t=13733

as I'm not the greatest with photography, hopefully someone has taken some decent pictures at the all jap day and posted it on other forums and shit, or even recorded me giving it a decent squirt over the bridge, now to troll the other forums for pics (plus im too cheap to buy a decent camera for now)

Nope i left not long after the couple left, 31s aren't the most comfortable things to sleep in, or wake up in after a big night