Gerg_R31

unfortunatly I think I'm stuck with the short ram tubes now with the welding, and any other way to set up the linkages prevented the throttle bodies operating fully or properly though the gizzmo thermal gaskets are 0.0160" (4.07mm) thick so in a way I could say I have a 0.320" (8.13mm) thick spacer

Yeah stainless steel has a more controlled thermal expansion rate which ill set to oem specs, inconel and titanium even better control which ill set to 0.012" intake & 0.014 exhaust

They are the factory settings the exhaust usually has a bigger clearance as it expands more during thermal expansion, but with the rb26 exhaust valves being sodium filled, the sodium absorbs more heat, which stops the exhaust valve expanding, and allows for a smaller clearance

Where is the crack? Got a picture of it? I've only ever seen one rb head crack and he was running methanol and 60 pound boost

Correct term is 'under bucket shim' (and there is 'over bucket shim' & 'solid bucket') Rb26 clearances - 0.018" ( +/- 0.001") intake & 0.015" exhaust ( +/- 0.001") Measure with feeler gauges when the cam lobes base circle is above the bucket Face valve/ cut seat/ order thicker shims to close the gaps Machine tip of valve/ shim to open Too loose it will rattle and cause premature wear too tight it will stay open causing loss of compression I've had to machine a 26 head out for poncams a couple times

Space, there is about 6mm between number 6 ram tube and the clutch master cylinder

Maybe 6 x ebay electric turbos on the end of each trumpet :-P

will organise diff and what not for early next year so by sep 2012 it'll be on, as long as i dont have to slow down to under 30km/h i'm sweet, its such a pig to try and cruise at that or lower or in peak hour traffic

hence why i said dyno day, they're usually cheaper maybe we'll have a race at skyline nationals in 2012 if he goes?

I guess it will add a few once its all bed in and i remove the mineral oil and put in synthetic and oil cooler. but yeah all timing is done. will go to the next dyno day after the all jap day

Well i found Jesus in the city a while ago, he asked for spare change, so i guess Jesus went and got booze :-P

Ty I don't think ill hit 8200rpm often will find out next dyno day or when i put it on a track sometime next year Gotta say you were close, but my boss was slightly closer

R31 Skyline RB26/30DE RB26 head, RB30 bottom end, modifications - lots 225.6hp / 168.23kw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwhz4soqwpI 225.6hp / 168.23kw

Videos (available HD too ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym-GwE2_Y9k http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rs5HlaQs3M

Pictures RB26/30DE extractors and shiney stuff RB26/30DE - Painted cam covers to match car with carbon & black and grey carbon fibre timing / valley covers RB26/30DE - ram tudes, velocity stacks, trumpets, shiney round things, what ever you call them

Will up load pics, dyno sheet pic and a couple vids tonight (no driving videos, as i was driving) But f**k me its fun to drive.... light goes green, slight hesitation then at speed limit before i get to change to 2nd, and i haven't tried full throttle yet, more trying to keep it on the speed limit for now No skids i like my licence, (if there were i wouldn't post it ) and my phone decibel app says its at 98 decibel at idle... will need to get that checked out

Surprised the single spinner 3.89 diff and non syncro series 1 r31 gearbox lasted that much. fingers crossed they can last till after xmas shopping is done

225hp/ 167.8kw at 8200rpm

Update; Linkages done, car started, being run in on the dyno. Cams and ignition timing should be fully tunned late today early tomorrow.... Excited again oh and car got to 220hp /164kw before the ignition model shit itself

I doubt he reads the forums, and ive also had heaps of time to build joels rb26/30de and make it all 100% like brand new & perfect. But i guess having a whinge gets things moving though still need to fit the oil cooler, new oil and filter and plugs (after its run in), fit and adjust the new coilovers, fit the catch can, give it a decent wash and go for a pie run and drive to new castle all before 13th of November

Got a call from Mick first thing this morning, and there may have been a bit of misinterpretation on my part, mick said that he said; i got to have all these cars ready for a race meet which all these and these i sponsor have to be ready for the long weekend so my bad in my part there but yeah he also hadn't realised it had been there for so long and said im right to have the shits but he has promised that nothing else will leave his shop until my car is done So yeah we'll see how it goes from here

Boring pretty much making a hole bigger using one or many single point carbide cutting tools on a round centralised bar, and if set up right can make any hole perfectly round. Boring can take out a large amount of material in one or two attempts Honing is a process done on a round centralised bar with stones instead of a carbide tip. Honing stones come in various grades of grit and are used to take out smaller amounts of materials. Honing on its own is used for reclaiming the cross hatch in cylinder bores, getting the last couple thou out to get the cylinder bore on size, honing of the little ends after new bushes or converting to a floating rod, honing con rod big ends, valve guides, rockers, lifter bores etc Closing and Honing Is usually required after spinning a big end bearing, wear and tear, getting new bolts with a higher torque setting creating the tunnel to be out of round, or mixing the caps up. The process of closing and honing is done by, a light machining of two joining faces, i.e a con rod and a con rod cap so they sit perfectly flat, toqued to specifications and then honed until round and with in OEM spec. Line Hone a long bar with stones that go nearly the entire length of the bar to ensure that each cap bore is aligned with the next, sometimes a light hone can make the tunnel round again, some times it will need to be closed and honed if its unable to reclaim the roundness and alignment it is then needed to get lined / tunnel bored Tunnel Boring is usually done for jobs where a light hone wont correct the tunnel. The process is done by milling an exact amount off the two joining faces, bolting them all back on, torquing to specs, then running the boring bar through the entire length to get it close to factory size, perfectly aligned and round. it is then followed by a light line hone to get it within OEM specs honing or boring of any main or big end tunnel will most likely bring the piston slightly higher towards the deck, with closing and honing of rods and main caps, usually 0.001"-0.003 is removed, boring 0.005"-0.010" (the average hair on someones head is about 0.004" thick) but unless the crank has been ground offset the stroke is never affected

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/378823-engine-internals-comp-ratios-general-info/page__pid__6040826#entry6040826 that i wrote up a few days ago which has the formula for working out your comp ratio which is more then grinding x amount off Think of 8.5:1 as minimum and 9:1 as maximum, speak to your tuner, find out what ratio he is comfortable with, the turbo your running

Dynamic compression ratio has nothing to do with itb, itb gives a more efficient atomising aka better air fuel mixture a dynamic compression ratio is the "true" compression ratio, static cr follows the crank stroke, dynamic follows the crank stroke between intake valve closing and TDC i.e my rb30de 10.7:1 static cr, 10.8mm lift cams, 252° duration @ 0.050" intake valve closes 60° after BDC which robs me of 12% of my 85mm stroke. which means my effective dynamic stroke is 68mm. do the maths and ill get a 8.75:1 same cams and timing with 8.5:1 & 15 pound boost brings it to 13.25:1 When we machine turboed stuff usually 8.2:1-9:1 for dedicated race cars, 8.5:1 - 9:1 for street cars, 10.5:1-12.5:1 for methanol cars