Gerg_R31

i think r32abuser is talking about cam timing i can garrantee not every engine builder knows, that with the rb25/26-30de( t ) the cam timing is not right if they are lined up with the timing marks on the cam gears backing plate, or if they go off the degree wheel or the valve lift at TDC as them values are more suited to the rb25/rb26 blocks this is even out of my experience, best thing i did with my motor was line up the dots, measure piston to valve clearance, gave it to my tuner, told him i lined the dots up and what the piston to valve clearance was, he then told me he knows what to do and he can sort it out

My biggest issue with working in a machine shop is "can you organise pistons with a 8.5:1 compression ratio" "what head CC's do you currently have? "oh no, i don't want any head work done" then they come back saying they had issues and their mechanic says that their comp was too high too low cause problems etc we organised the wrong pistons, we don't know how to do our job, we owe them a new motor etc if measurements are done right or to match the figures the piston manufacture suggested there won't be an issue and the job will be done right the first time and everyone is happy

Titan's info states what was used to achieve the ratio's with that brands piston, If you put them pistons in without checking everything else matches there is a strong chance the ratio WILL be different. The example i used with the piston sitting above was done without even machining the block which is common. machining everything to suit the pistons manufactures specs wwith the piston above would have equaled 8.75:1

You do know its not just the pistons that contribute to compression ratios? Head cc's gasket thickness x gasket bore, piston top to deck height piston domes / dishes/ valve reliefs for example bore 86.5mm stroke 85mm Gasket 1.5mm x 88mm 0.004" piston above deck 5.1cc piston dome 62cc head chamber all this equals 8.49:1

Nothing yet, should be back anytime now, actually got a set of angry's r31 'emotion' coil overs getting welded to struts another thing to put on when car comes back

ferra parts; springs to suit 11.5mm lift (you will want extra lift to prevent the spring bottoming out or valve bouncing) stainless steel valves (they are a +1mm valve head size) titanium retainers valve locks (aka collets) spring base locator (these parts wont fit with any other brands like supertech or even the standard parts so pretty much you have to buy the whole lot, fabre are the only known ferra suppliers that im aware of) RB26 cams 272 advertised duration and 10.8mm lift, common with just about any cam grinder (camtech tomeii hks etc) (have 3-4mm lathed off bottom of buckets or they will bottom out) flow bench ported head + port match intake manifold (dont port match the exhaust to head manifold) 4 - 5 angle intake seat radius with 1mm 45 seat neo heads have a smaller chamber and the cc's are around 53-56cc's, make sure you check piston to valve clearance if not get the pistons flycut/ releived to maintain the minimum 0.080/ 2.03mm how do i know all this? i've personally built a couple of these neo rb25 heads at work and thats pretty much the "all out" max you can go with the neo heads, (dont ask me the price i avoid that side of the job)

$80 each for the tubes, milling, bridge porting and welding were free cause i work here

Will do, its not right to say i got 'xxxkw' without the proof. would be good to see yours finished too

The definitions get a little mixed up at times i know bigger number = more responsive aka shorter time spent in that gear but yeah have looked around made calls, anything from 3k - 10k in costs, though alot of the gearsets they spoke of appeared to suit top speed but yeah i think i may as well go 25 box and see how big i can get the diff ratio

- LONG STORY - I got an R31 with a N/A RB26/30DE, idea of the motor was for the power to kick in at 3000rpm and peak about 7500 (grip circuit racing), will be running a 4.11 diff. Anyways, currently running a R31 manual but chasing something with shorter more responsive gears, was going to go a vl turbo box but they're hard to find or hard to find one not flogged out. I know that the 33 boxes are near indestructible better syncros smoother gear changes etc but there isn't much difference in the ratios to what i currently have R31 - VLT - R33 RB25 1st 3.321 - 3.580 - 3.214 2nd 1.901 - 2.077 - 1.925 3rd 1.308 - 1.360 - 1.302 4th 1.000 - 1.000 - 1.000 5th 0.759 - 0.752 - 0.752 - SHORT STORY - chasing response with short gears to work with a 4.11 diff Is there any other gearboxes that would have taller ratios (i got no problems with modifying bell housing and input shaft/ clutches etc) Or is it possible to get after market gear sets for the R33 box?

difference is i researched and done maths and built it around a certain expected rev range (which if the maths works out right 3000rpm to 7500rpm is where it should really come alive) but yup I've put you down for 165

Or turning right or left while their vl is dumping the contents of their gearbox all over the road

There is also kinetic or kenetic cams (Google should help he has a basic website) he is based in moorebank/ chipping norton. He used to work at camtech 3 or 4 years ago, he's pretty switched on, and we've used his cams quite often. best to contact him via phone as he doesn't get to his emails often That's about as much as i think i can say via club rules (the no promoting / no hating of companies)

When i first got my 31 after about 6 months i put a k&n pod and cai kit on was ok felt more responsive etc, cop gave me a warning about it, i put old setup back on with new panel filter, felt the same response increase, 6 months later another new panel filter, once again it felt more responsive. In short replace filters often (i also did all filters spark plugs and oil changes at the same time)

Got an ok from my boss who is willing to donate his time (but is going to give minimal info on the rd32/26det), just got to wait for the owner to agree, was told he has to speak with the insurance guys first. how many would be keen?

Ill speak to my boss and see if he's interested in showing the machining and balancing process. if our main branch gave us the newen CNC seat cutter we'd probably demonstrate that too

I have a set of buckets but not the shims that sit under them $40 + postage if your interested. if you need the shims call precision shims in Melbourne (03) 9723 0199

I have a R33 vct head, in pieces, flow bench ported, cut out for 10.8mm 26 cams, seats have been cut for +1mm stainless steel valves(they've been sold) needs exhaust guides, was going to convert it to the tomeii solid lifters in place of the hydraulic lifters and put on a 30 bottom end but i found a cheap 26 head $450 for the head and all the stock parts plus postage if your interested

Lol Pete, I'll put a turbo on it when you start buying stuff at their asking price :-P

Should we start making bets on how much it will make? So far; My boss 170kw Friend 190kw the 1st year 199kw mechanic near work 210kw

I entered my N/A RB26/30DE powered R31 last time and it was approved, so I will see you all there (entrant number #131)

got told the car should be right to pick up from micks around the end of next week, so hopefully ill have a few new pics, dyno sheet, and maybe a video or 2 but in the mean time i'll throw up a few drag videos of the cars mick has tunned (1200 dato ute vs r35) (micks 12 second N/A gemini)

kitto ; ty, and im sure there are many good s.a based machinists that will do a good job blk180 : ty again, will let everyone know with a dyno sheet jamie curran : ty will do, though nothing new yet Silvia GTR : this isn't a P plate build, nor is it P plate legal. Yeah I built it whilst on my P's got off my P's then put it in. so if there are any P platers reading this I'd advise against copying this till atleast their opens. with the wrong choice of words out of the way (dont stress im not always the best with my choice of words) the message did come across with good intentions so ty

we will fit rear drain backs on request, wether its the spool kit, the press in, or the weld in, the side fittings on the rear exhaust side is usually on the RD28/26DET blocks as that drain has to be welded up as there is no matching face on the RD28 deck also grub screws need tappered threads or they will leak/ come loose

4 holes (i googled images) and google images also shows the grove machined into the rb30 block being used for the spool rb34 and yeah the pistons that say a certain compression ratio shit me a little as it can be very misleading to those who have little clue, i.e a customer that came into my workshop once "oh how expensive were the pistons that you used to get a 10.5:1? they must be custom made" (nope they just have a 10cc dome) but i guess with the arias that say you'd get between this and that kinda say "this is a rough guide" oh and if you locktite the grub screws in the crank, they wont come out. though with the hole being horizontal to the crank spin it would be even more un common for them to come out. i've seen the end result of mallory sticks coming out when people weld them vertically to the crank spin instead of horizontally