Gerg_R31

ok found the problem broke 5 fingers off the pressure plate, reason possibly cracked couple fingers when the spring came off the clutch fork

he works a couple doors down from my shop, he always shows old parts even fluids. he is more possitive something broke on the clutch plate but thinks it might be the gear box cause its not selecting 2nd 3rd or 4th at any time, and 1st 5th and reverse are time consuming to force in we'll see eventually

update was going ok got about a dozen gear changes then... it got stuck in 3rd. Turned it off, still stuck in 3rd, got it out of gear eventully. Now cant find any "slot" or gear other then 1st 5th and reverse it eventually went into 1st with engine off, turned the key without the clutch in, it jumped forward, i kicked the accelerator and it moved without the clutch with a bit of effort i did a 3 point turn, got back to the mechanic using only 1st gear he thinks either the springs have broken in the clutch plate or the gear box isn't strong enough for the motor

clutch fork spring near the thrust bearing housing had fallen off and the fork and slid out, grr always something simple

dictonary? english? grammer?

couldn't see anything with the clutch for boot off, ill take it into a gearbox specialist tomorrow

metal line bracket to chasie, then rubber line to slave will check pivet point.... i hope its not something simple like the spring falling off there

bled it again, tried adjusting the travel in the pedal, its got 12-14mm of travel now it; goes into reverse everytime no issue struggles to go into first on some start ups goes into 1st 2nd 4th and 5th without dramas after a drive, but crunches/ clunks into 3rd when coasting along if i put clutch in then back out it "shutters" around the clutch point

it was working fine then the 2 days before hand it was getting hard to put it in gear

nup no different

the parts; r31 with rb26/30de gearbox is out of a series 1 r31 5.5kg chrome molly flywheel has a extreme heavy duty cushion button clutch/ motor maybe done about 1200-1500kms the story; Monday; went to leave work noticed puddle of brake fluid under car, the clutch slave cylinder boot had leaked. bought new slave cylinder, fitted, bled (with hose from nipple into another bottle of break fluid) drove it around was ok, turned it off packed up tools went to leave work and wouldnt go into gear. bled the clutch again. no change. adjusted pedal removed all play (next to no thread left towards pedal side) if i started it in gear it would shutter then launch if i started it in gear with clutch in it would squeel as it was kicking over bled it again was a bit better a couple minutes after leaving work, it got difficult to change or put into gear. then started to really drop in revs and making the car dive with clutch in by time i got home i was pretty much smashing the gears, stalling at lights Wednesday Replaced the master cylinder with the r32 master cylinder bled it from master and slave so far starts then it might go into gear eventually, might work easily might not starting in first gear hand brake down clutch in, it has creeped forward but not everytime starting in reverse doesnt move i'm thinking damaged spigot bush

mines nearly there, tidied a few things up, yeah the coil pack and timming covers are just sitting there as I havent got the bolts yet

Since I cant update the first post here is whats still for sale

150 teeth = tensioner same location + idler 152 teeth = tensioner relocated + idler

bought genuine

still looking

still wanting to buy

weight and clean as in acid bath then weight match the conrod big ends little ends and total weights? welding on crank? or do you mean metal spraying? cheaper to buy new crank then the costs of metal spraying, unless you mean press fit and and grub screw crank collar, and tap and fit grub screws to big end journals of crank anyways main reason i forgot to mention why not just get the conrods nitrided easier quicker and better then the shotpeening

anyone?

i've looked through the ACL catelog (which has all out sizes) and there are no conrod big end tunnels that are anywhere close to the rb30 big end size the rods shouldnt be press fit as nissan rods are designed to have a full floating pin with circlips i got a cheap set of rb30 H- beams and up graded the ARP bolt closed and honed, didnt need to but did it anyway

just after the bolts and screws got everything else

as title says im chasing bolts for coil pack cover upper timming belt cover and the 4 ignitor bolts and 12 coil pack to coil pack rail screws

still got it, and the lifter housing needs 0.040" machined off to suit the cam

alot is still for sale, id cross out if i could modify first post

1. yes its a bare head and the standard rb25 VCT stuff can go back in it, only thing that needs replacing is the exhaust guides (hi octane sell them) and there was a bung put in the oil drain on the face side as it was going to go on a rb30 block easy heat up and remove 2. yes its been ported the flow figures are on the previous page XXX Cubic feet per minute @ XXX amount of lift in inches 3. yes still have the ITB