Gerg_R31

Forgot to mention You will also need to machine the head so the cam will be able to clear the head Pictures as promised

I have for Sale a set of RB26DETT cams $750 These were made by Camtech from a Billet cam casting, the exhaust has the CAS gear press fitted into it, Never been used, They have been sitting at work for a while in their boxes, Selling due to change of mind of cam specs YOU WILL NEED TO RESET UNDER BUCKET SHIM CLEARANCE (clearance settings on cam card) YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO GET VALVE SPRINGS TO SUIT Cam lift 10.8mm IN & EX Duration 280° IN & EX Located Near Liverpool Sydney Contact Number PM First Will post at buyers expense http://auspost.com.au/products-and-service...calculator.html (The cams weigh 9kg, 4.5kg each) Will add pictures soon

let me guess you take shit too literally and personally? I have read the entire thread, and i understand that the rb26de autech was a rare motor, and you were asking if it can be turboed, but then others saying it becomes a rb26de+t which cheaper option would have been a rb26det which would be exactly the same minus the wank factor of having a rare motor that has been turboed, then you blew up went ape shit then called n/a motors expensive and slow, you dont give a shit what others think blah blah yet you were so busy explaining yourself so obviously you do, or maybe you got no actual knowledge and expressing yourself online made you feel more of a man end result you should probably take a deep breath and think twice about making yourself sound like a tool again /end bullshit (hope this gets it back on topic)

rb30 blocks are getting a bit old so best to measure bores - rebore if needed measure big end journals on crank - grind if needed measure main journals on crank - grind if needed if using standard conrods measure the big end tunnel - close and hone if needed with rb30 cranks they are nitrated from factory, if it has to be reground it should be re nitrated after nitrating it should be balanced as the bare crank, then the flywheel, flywheel and the pressure plate, then with harmonic balancer flywheel and pressure plate that will be used if new conrods and pistons are used have them weight balanced (little end big end and over-all) only use ACL bearings if its a standard rebuild, "ACL Race Series" if its a factory turbo, I recommend "king" bearings as they are a better quality bearing and wont shit themselves as quick

.... somebody lit the fuse on your tampon string

found, thanks heaps, sorry to those offers i didnt take

ill assume by runs you met the legal drag strip i'd recommend the nitto oil pump http://www.nitto.com.au/products/oilpump-R...ory=engineblock though id also recommend making sure the crank's snout hasnt been badly damaged, and check the sump for chunks of bearings

Compression ratios There seems to be little idea on compression ratio's or how to get the desired compression ratio. Taking X amount off the block and X amount off the cylinder head will raise the compression ratio but how much is actually just guessing. There is a lot of measuring and working out how much to add or take out grind off from where. A lot of the figures I have used is from my RB26/RB30 I have been working on at work, I have used JE 0.040" over sized pistons and a "ACL Race Series" metal head gasket Below is the formula Bore x Stroke bore x bore ÷ 4 = 87 x 87 ÷ 4 = 1892.25 Answer x stroke x π (pie) = 1892.25 x 85 x 3.142 = 505363.2075 answer ÷ 1000 = 505363.2075 ÷ 1000 = 505.363208 = SV answer x number of cylinders = cc cc ÷ 1000 = litre Head Gasket Same formula as above though a this part is quite often left out gasket bore squared ÷ 4 87.5 x 87.5 ÷ 4 =1914.0625 answer x gasket thickness x π (pie) ÷ 1000 1914.0625 x 1.3 x 3.142 = 7818.179688 7818.179688 ÷ 1000 = 7.81818 [ + ] Head Chamber CC Using a burette cc the head, grind 0.010"/0.25mm off and work out how much that has removed and then work out how much more you need to take off to get the desired chamber volume Ill add to this when I get an X amount of how many CC's removed per 10 thou grind I'll be aiming for 58cc Piston Dome/Dish /dome with valve releifs They can vary a lot, most piston manufacturers will say what cc they have mine say 10cc Dome [ - ] Dish [ + ] Deck height This is the measurement from the deck to the top of the piston (not top on the dome) when the piston is at TDC If the piston is below the deck bore x bore ÷ 4 = 87 x 87 ÷ 4 = 1892.25 = x deck to piston x pie ÷ 1000 1892.25 x 0.3 x 3.142 =1783.63485 1783.63485 ÷ 1000 = 1.783635 [ + ] 0 Deck height is 0 Piston above the deck (0.017"/0.43mm for this set up) top measurement of the piston squared ÷ 4 86 x 86 ÷ 4 = 1849 = x piston to deck x pie ÷ 1000 1849 x 0.4 x 3.142 = 2498.10994 2498.10994 ÷ 1000 = 2.49811 [ - ] Adding it all together Head CC + Gasket volume then the following options + Piston Dish + Piston below deck - Piston Dome - Piston above deck for me Head cc + Gasket - Piston Dome - Piston above deck = CV 58 + 7.81818 - 10 - 2.49811 = 53.32007 CV + SV = 53.32007 + 505.363208 = 558.683278 Answer ÷ CV = Compression ratio 558.683278 ÷ 53.32007 = 10.477917 = 10.48:1

backpackers

what type of ute was it?

thanks but i already have a complete intake setup and a 2nd set of ITBs only need the circled parts please

my bad, i ment the bit that the radiator hose clamps onto on the manifold (the one i bought didnt come with that bit or the vacuum chamber thingy on top of where the injectors connect to)

the part that i've outlined and the manifold to radiator hose part

20 thou grind? off what block? head? do you even know how much it could reduce the combustion chamber? or the compression? or the deck height? do you know you may even need to slightly open up the combustion chamber to a full circle to minimise artificle pinging and detonation i am a p plater myself and yeah the rules suck. but it makes me just that little bit more excited that in november i can put my rb30de in, i have done 2 years of researching every part and i have done all the machine work so far and i am at an estimated 9k in just parts gaskets bearings cams supporting mods etc, and they are all at trade prices, and there is still plenty more parts to get gearbox breaks diff suspension etc i have spoken to engineers, police, rta, nrma trying to workout p plate legal mods, from what i gathered in short anything you do that wasnt a factory option needs to be engineered, engineered certified cars are not p plate legal, 7 points and loss of license isnt worth it, you may be lucky and get a highway patrol with no idea but the odd chance you do will only make it an even longer time until you can drive it legally

whats wrong with the the current seats? i can supply exhaust inserts, do you have someone who cant fit them then cut the seats to suit then re set the under bucket shims? do you know what meterial you need? though you may find that the reconditioning shop who can fit can also supply the inserts

im pretty sure the rb20's have the same size hydrualic lifters as the rb25, and ive done a few rb25 solid lifter conversions at work plus camtech has on their website rb20/rb25 so quite possibly you could run with the rb25 cams in your 20 head, bit of porting, port match the intake manifold, can the injector part off the manifold weld a plate onto it and drill holes to suit the rb26 ITB my curent rb30de build is expecting to pass $15k easy (almost built just waiting for full license in november)

My thoughts are with their loved ones... R.I.P

found

I'm after a set of rb26dett injectors, fuel rail and injector loom p.m me im located in sydney, would prefer to pick them up

found and bought, but cheers any ways akajonz

possibly found head

converting the rb30 efi to carby will be a bitch of a job, and if you find a local cam grinder you can probably get your cam reground to "stage 2" but then as mentioned the stage names is just what the cam grinder calls it. there are many different master cams (master cams are like a mould or guide for when grinding cams) plus when using a reground or after market cam you need to measure the base circle (the round part of the lobe) to the cam shaft of the standard and reground work out the difference and that is roughly what needs to be machined off the lifter housing (doesnt need to be exact as the lifter will compensate for the extra few thou/mm)

the LS(what ever number) I've seen at work are all alloy, but there are some cast iron LSX blocks that i beleive are after market only we recently rebored and balanced a LS3 which was going in a 32gtr, and he said that the block bolted straight in to the standard nissan engine mounts, but yeah it is a track car but for road worthyness sticking with a nissan motor i would assume it would make it easier to engineer and register I'll speak to him tomorrow and ill see if i can get you pics

I am interesting in buying (got money now) an rb26dett cylinder head, complete with 6 tb intake manifold, injectors coils, ignitor cas etc as if it came straight off block but wont complain if not available preferably stock un moddified Exhaust and turbos not needed Condition of head not fased as it will be getting rebuilt (would appreciate if any known issues like bent valves, burning oil, worn guides etc) P.M me with your asking price Wont post head

supercharger kits for the rb30 are available but not really worth it and as MBS206 said dont mod it till you are off you P's driving an illegally modified car is 7 points and a suspension that im not too sure how long that is, i reckon if you still want to mod the vl, buy all the parts over the next 3 years then when you get your full license pull it off the road and put it all together, keep it stock for now, dont go down the n/a path as n/a parts can be designed differently for forced induction so to do a n/a now will be waisting your money.