Gerg_R31

if you werent pulled over whilst doing the alledged crime, they had no legal right to question you at your door as they cant prove who was driving, if the vehicle was being driven, and at most all they can legally do is tell you to "settle down" as the off duty officer is off duty making him no more then a member of the public calling in what they alledgedly saw, they cant fine or penalise you in anyway once you have entered private property (place of residence) you have not admitted guilt either, magistrates are usually ex cops, and quite often you will find the police prosecuter gets more time to speak then your lawyer, get yourself a couple good character references (make sure they dont state their opinion of what the decision should be otherwise it may be scrapped) and yeah your driving history will also assist/ effect the out come, if it start going bad ask to do a driving intervention program but yeah seek legal advice and try to avoid legal aid (most of them are fresh out of uni and have little experience) tell the lawyer what happened truthfully and he/she will speak / bullshit/ find loop holes/ errors etc in the cops report

just the drag strip or circut as well?

i search alot on this forum, which is why i still have very few posts after being on here for so long i came across alot of people wanting to convert to rwd, and how to make a switch, but there isnt anything about it being able to be done in an r31

are there any license restrictions? like cams license or something

I've got an R31, and soonish I'll be dropping in a N/A RB30DE, I plan to use it for circut racing and a daily as well I've been thinking of converting it to AWD using parts from an R32 Anyways, does anyone think that this would be possible or worth it? feel free to share extra thoughts on it

does the rb26 timing cover come with backing plate?

solved, my thermo fan that came with the car didnt work so i wired up my own thermo fan, found out the sensor that tells the computer that the thermo fan needs to come on was confusing the computer, ust so i just disconnected that switch thanks everyone for their help and suggestions

the ignitor module, being dizzy set up im sure u mean the single coil, which was replaced fuel pressure regulator... might give that ago will keep you all updated

no one has any ideas?

cold days it is fine, but if i drive somewhere say to the shops, it reaches operating temperature then come back 5 minutes later it acts up, or just on hot days. ill start it, it will idle low when i accelerate it will sound like its running on 3 cylinders and pisses out black smoke, if its doing this in stop go traffic it will run like shit stall & piss out black smoke i know the black smoke means un burnt fuel anyways the cars history r31 skyline, rb30e, 2 years ago reconditioned the head at my work shop, had cam reground, raised to compression from 9:1 to 9.6:1, stock computer year ago converted it to manual, since the manual conversion its had issues, replaced start motor, alternator, all new belts, 2 afm (1 new), new bosch coil, new thermostat, radiator cap, radiator hoses, 2 dizzies (1 was out of a vl and was told the wiring is slightly different to the nissan) every 3 months/5000kms i change oil and filter, every 6 months 10,000kms i change oil, oil filter, spark plug leads and spark plugs, every year 20,000kms new fuel filter, air filter etc i have changed just about every sensor, bought all genuine, sprayed 2 cans of carby/ throttle body cleaner, AAC is clean and carbon free, had injectors cleaned i replaced the reground cam with a standard cam ive had numerous mechanics look at it and its either not been an issue when they had it, or they couldnt find anything im starting to think maybe a cylinder or to has excesive clearance or the rings are on their way out, but it doesnt use any oil any1 got ideas?

the triangles you mention inthe first picture have been machined, either for clearance or balancing reasons the 2nd and 3rd picture shows the snout has been chewed up, repair to cost of a new/2nd hand crank, well id sugest to buy a new or 2nd hand crank turn while on engine stand use a socket (usually 27mm) on the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer onto the snout, only turn clockwise

same specs as in previous post dyno1 is the rb30de the dyno2 is the stroker rb34de Non Turbo Turbo

straight motors are easy to balance as they are rarely out of balance and if they are its never much. but if they are out of balance, 0.01 grams at 750 rpm can become 0.5grams at 5000rpm or more i forgot the exact maths, but end result bigger vibrations creating unneeded wear and tear though your list does have pretty much everything thats needed for a cheap cheap job you could just drill the hole for the tensioner new timing belt, gaskets etc, and whack it all together though better to use the rb25 pistons and king bearings if your in sydney send it to my machine shop

I've been playing around with an engine dyno/ calculator simulator and its calculated roughly a before and after figures of horse power torque etc with the stroker crank (as long as i have had all of the motors figures including flow figures at each measured level, i have gotten very similar to what has been acheived on a real dyno -/+ 1-3hp) all 4 have exactly the same specs as you will see, though what is not shown is both have a 64cc in combustion chamber, 10cc piston dome, 4cc valve releif in piston and a flush deck height this is not a garanteed before and after power results with the stroker crank but a simulation/ comparasion of what results may be expected with only change in stroke, results will vary depending on supporting internal and external componants Non-Turbo i have also added a turbo set up, everthing is still exactly the same, just with a turbo of which i chose from a drop down menu in the program. I am also aware that different turbos and supporting mods will change the end results Turbo

anything new?

i think a good way to work this out is maybe get a N/A RB26 with the same or similar cams, chuck it on a dyno, advance/spastify the intake cam X degrees at certain revs, to see just where and when advancing and retarding would peak and then could work out if it be worth it or not or i could just do it later on after i finish my motor, then pull the cam back out and drill the oil hole in the cam in X amount of degrees

the VCT only moves the intake cam, though that the same theroy i had my aim is 10.5:1 to 11:1 will be using the RB26 6 throttle bodies with a moddified rb25 manifold/adapter plate not sure about the rest of it but will get to that later

though if i measure the distance and location on the rb25 cam and drill an oil hole at work to meet up with the already exsisting oil hole it might work (im an engine reconditioner) i have noticed the VCT hub sits on the cam gear was thinking as we've done the rb25 solid shim conversion (with the little stem inside the bucket) and they kept the vct which was connected to a vernie cam gear, so i was thinking since my cam is just a tad bigger with a few little modifications i might be able to make it work

fair enough, (still learning myself) though since its a shim setup you might need to check the base circle of the cam to the top of the bucket

when buying new cams, the "stage" or "type" is just a marketing term. research and find out what would be best suited for what you intend on doing with the car im guessing your putting it in a rb25? machine work isnt really needed but recomended to take the cylinder head in to a reconditioner and get them to do a vacuum test pressure test surface grind and change valve stem seals also get them to check that the standard valve springs will suit the cam or you may need to replace them since the rb25 is hydrualic you wont need to do anything with the lifters, unless you convert it to solid shim lifter which the clearances will have to be set spring base washers (or as some people call the spring seats but they are just washers) dont need replacing guides dont need to be changed unless they have wear, if the reconditioner says they cant find the guides if they are needed, tell them to get 24 x rb26 intake guides porting, decking, chamber matching/ grinding all extras depending on what your chasing if you want to turbo it later all you have to do is adjust the intake cam and exhaust cam seperation and it will suit a turbo hope that helped

I have been building an RB30DE using an R33 RB25DE VCT head The head has been ported, grub screwed the VCT oil gallery, I'm using RB26 valves, retainers, buckets, extra thick lash pads, RB26 cams (10.8mm lift 280° duration), organised taller springs anyways life story a side i was thinking of maybe trying to use the VCT with the RB26 cams for a bit more low rev assistance anyone think its possible? or would it be pointless?

found

are the cranks balanced? or knife edged like the other stroker cranks?

i'm after the multiple throttle bodies that come off an RB26DETT and the linkages located in south west sydney P.M me with details cheers

they are stamped near the gear box 25 26 and 30 run the same bore size