Gerg_R31

Yeah, first to speed limit wins (usually just before is when the turbo cars are passing me in a 70 zone) Not looking forward to corners, i drive a 31

i'm in for march, hopefully with the kaaz in too (and for anyone who wants to gun it /spirited driving/ what ever you want to call it, i'll be keeping to the speed limits, so dont get the shits if I'm holding you up)

http://ipg-supertech.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=1300&category_id=853 take advantage of the aus to american dollar (but thats if you want to go all out nuts with the head) then you'd prob want cams, then solid lifters, then porting next thing you've spent around 4k in parts and labour on just the head

Every 25 block I've personally seen at my machine shop hasn't had them so i assumed, Googled and found pictures that proved me wrong so my bad, guess the rb25 blocks I've worked on are/ were the non turbo 25 blocks

Rb26 and rd28s have the block mounted squirters, Rb25de/t don't so your most likely using rb26 squirters lilcrash might suggest another machinist if he is having issues with a basic piston like mahle je and cp are what id recommend

25s don't have squirters

Use arp lube, its pretty cheap and prevents guessing what torque it should be other then the manufacturers settings

65ft pounds on mains contact spool, the rod bolt will have arp something on them which is the type of arp bolt it is

most after market rb26 pistons have the notches in them to clear, sure they're not an rb25 piston?

honed with either diamond or grit based stones are irrelivant for this topic, if the bores have been followed with plateu stones or a bottle brush hone, then THAT will reduce the wear in time as well as remove any roughness and folded metals in the cross hatch. Diamond stones wear slower during the machining process and in the long run are cheaper for the machinist, (i.e grit stones do 30 bores and diamond stones do 200 bores) plus its easier for them as they dont have to try to compensate by minipulating the honing procedure, if they are using unevenly worn stones. Only benifit of a 325-500 grit diamond stone over a 400-600 grit based stones is the diamond leaves a slightly better RA rating but yeah + 1 to mineral oils at first

Yup i was, speak to sams performance, he builds some really high powered LS motors bit expect atleast an 18 month long cue Yeah, the 4.11 diff will only give a 5.3% increase on paper compared to the 3.89, but looks like a bigger increase if you add the vlt ratio and compare it to the standard gears and 3.89 diff And yeah taller gears = more acceleration and less top speed but this is all on paper, will chuck it on a dyno afterwards to see what difference the 4.11 made on acceleration

first performance mod should be a helmet, long shirt and long pants, then go do some driver training then go to the race track/ drag strip/ skid pan, do your best with what you got, when you "hit a wall" and cant improve, upgrade your suspension and brakes and tyres (track work isnt all about putting your foot down) then go back to the track and try again, tune the suspension until it suits what you want it for while you do all of this, plan and research what you want to do with it once your off your P's. start buying parts for when your off your P's anything other then that on your P's is not going to really improve anything, plus in nsw its 12 month suspension and 7 points for a P plater to drive with "prohibited mods" aka 15 months extra wait to modify your car when your off your P's

Nothing new, still waiting on clutch to turn up I decided to do some maths .........RB30/20........MX7/VLT.....Difference with 3.89:1 diff............Difference with 4.11:1 diff (coming soon) 1st.....3.321:1.........3.580:1.........7.3% Increase in acceleration........12.5% Increase in acceleration 2nd....1.901:1.........2.077:1.........8.5% Increase in acceleration........13.8% Increase in acceleration 3rd.....1.308:1.........1.369:1.........4% Increase in acceleration.............9.3% Increase in acceleration 4th.....1.000:1.........1.000:1.........--------------------------------------..............5.3% Increase in acceleration 5th.....0.759:1.........0.759:1.........1% Decrease in aceeleration............4.3% Increase in acceleration

wont know until they actually become available

Yeah more detailed on how to work out static comp ratio; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/378823-engine-internals-comp-ratios-general-info/page__pid__6104330#entry6104330

Bleeding air/oil out of lifters; Pull lifters out of buckets, push a pin/ paper clip into the ball bearing part, afterwards it should compressby gently squeezing it, if it doesn't, it either has oil or air still in it Leave in oil over night or put in and crank motor until you get oil pressure then start the car

Alot of new cars have them butterfly valves standard but they're not legal as an aftermarket item (i can only speak about in nsw as im unaware of other states rules) when i got my exhaust done, i wanted to go 3" with the valve for 2 -3psi of back pressure like the r8's have, Liverpool exhaust said they can fit it but have to warn me it isn't legal, i then asked about the varex mufflers, same. I decided to stick with the 2.5" but to roughly sum it up, in nsw if it can be adjusted its illegal but with exceptions

Jun 2.7 - yeah its been answered, and the 85psi is the problem. i too thought the rings weren't sealing, but GTRNUR with his personal experience, pointed out the static compression ratio is way too low and is causing the low comp test readings (something i assumed an engine assembler would have measured, which makes me wonder if everything else was measured)

You would be looking at atleast 20k plus before external bolt ons, or about 6-7k in machine work labour if you buy all the parts yourself. but personally if its not a dedicated track car then there is no real benefit of the rd block in my opinion (except the guy in the UK where the rd blocks are easier to find) and i keep forgetting to bring scales in to weigh the blocks

Yeah need to get in car videos/ bumper videos sometime soon ok well old gear box is out, clutch plate 4/5 still good, pressure plate fingers are badly worn, the thrust bearing (appears to be the culprit) is fairly chewed out on the inner surface that connects to the input shaft. It shows signs of metal rubbing on metal and seizing on the input shaft Single piece tail shaft & MX7 box next to old bits

wouldnt that be a "pro"cam? i bet thats got some cam lag before it gives some hard whip lash

http://www.precisionintl.com/ give them a call they should be able to organise cast pistons

nissans with the vq35 engine is on the "not legal for p platers" list

I've always used copper spray on mls gaskets, never had an issue anyways finished the majority, just got to bolt on the water pump, rear main seal housing, oil pump housing when i get the bolts for it, and done

Springs studs copper spray