**RB2530**

Patent already pending my friend... A vent to atmosphere variant of this model is also available...Main difference is you use a tyre tube and a nail. 1. Pump a tyre tube and mount it under you bonnet somewhere..fake carbon fibre brackets are available... 2. Mount the hinge and nail next tyre tube. Back off throttle, nail into tyre tube and phtssshhhhh!!! Highway patrol pull you over... "Son you have a vent to atmosphere BOV!! -They are illegal!!" "No I dont officer... It's one of RB2530s new patented 'Legal' riceomatic pseudo BOVs....." "They ARE legal, I''l be on my way thanks"...

Here is a way you can do it and avoid all of the stalling issues. What you really need is a door hinge, some blutack, rubber bands and an icecream container...oh and a mirror... 1. Screw (or blutack) the hinge to the cowling around your cooling fan...cut a peice of the icecream container, preferably an L-shape and blutack it to the other side of the hinge..Put the rest of the blutack on the end of the l-shape.. 2. Then get the rubber bands and place them between the hinge and your fully hectik sick oil filler cap...(the one thats make an extra 38rwkw)... 3. Go for a drive and adjust the rubber bands so that when you back off the throttle, the L-shaped plastic swings into the fan... 4. Once you have made all of the appropriate adjustments and have it fluttering just right, pull over, pull out the mirror and look in it. You will be looking at yet another face that has reduced Skylines to levels of riceness that we commonly see today.... I'm a solutions man...Let me know what you think...

Check the tuning of your right foot.... Nah seriously take your handbrake off... Nah even more seriously, make sure there is no unexplicable drag on your car by parking it on a flat (level) smooth surface, place it in neutral and see how easy it is to push..You should be able to move it with just one hand...I had a car once where the handbrake had a habit of overadjusting all the time...This resulted in the handbrake never releasing properly...Skyline handbrakes (drum inside disc) aren't known for this but you never know.. Also check the position of the crank angle sensor...If everything is stock, the CAS should be roughly centred in the adjustment...If it is retarded (rotated clockwise) fuel economy will suffer...

Mmmm

Listen carefully because I am going to say this only once...(have said it many times before though..) 1. R&R is the ECU richening AFRs and retarding timing. What triggers this?? Excessive knock picked up by the knock sensors...Once triggered the ECU creeps back to normal maps gradually over time... The intent of R&R is to protect engine from damage (due to pinging) if car is filled with bad or low octane fuel... 2. Airflow cut is triggered when AFM voltage exceeds a mapped threshold (has nothing to do with R&R). Threshold voltage increases with engine rpm. When triggered ECU instantly drops fuel and spark. As soon as AFM voltage drops, fuel and spark get reinstated. Thats why if you dont back off throttle car will behave as if it is missing very badly..There is no adjustment to maps. What triggers this?? Anything modifcation thats will results in significantly increased airflow into the engine as measured by the afm..ie Less restrictive intake, Less restrictive exhaust, higher boost, bigger turbocharger.. The intent of airflow cut is to protect engine from overly lean AFRs and/or damaged to turbocharger due to excessive spooling should there be a problem with boost control..ie split WG actuator hose or WG jammed actuator... Contrary to common belief, these features were not placed in the ECU by the CIA, NSW highway patrol, RTA, FBI, nor are they some unexplainable scientific phenomona etc etc. They were simply put there by Nissan engineers to help get their turbocharged cars through a warranty period... Hope this makes sense...

What sort of flow and pressure delivery do you need? Are you recirculating the fuel? The temperature issue may not be an issue if the load on the pump is much smaller than what it is when it is in a car....

'In tank' fuel pumps often rely on being submersed in fuel to keep them cool...ie The fuel acts as cooling medium...They can make them a lot cheaper that way... I would also be cautious because the 'consequence' of it failing can be very high such as an in car fire...ie not like a water pump where things might get a bit wet

A waste gate hose that is badly split will 'not' result in a lower boost...It will result in a 'higher' boost which is uncontrolled because the wasetgate will be closed all of the time..It is the same as disconnecting your waste gate...Don't forget the wastegate is sprung closed and is opened by boost pressure... I still think it has something to do with your BOV...The spring in the stock BOV is quite weak and will be forced open by the boost pressure if the there is no boost pressure on the back of it to keep it closed..This will give you the symptoms you are seeing...The reason the boost still increases with rpm is that the airflow exiting the post compressor side is passing through the BOV which in itself is a restriction that will increase in pressure drop with increasing airflow...It may not necessarily be an incorrectly placed or split hose, but a problem with the BOV itself...Diaphragm split etc etc... As a test, try connecting a boost line from the post compressor side to the BOV nipple.....or even better do the coke can trick with the BOV..ie cut a coke can open, make it flat and place it between the BOV flange on the intake and the BOV itself effectively blocking off the BOV. And remember whenever you do anything like this don't get the car on the street and give it a bootful...You should know your car well enough to detect changes without giving it WOT... A comp test is good idea but I would expect for the severity of what you are seeing, the comp would be so bad that the engine would sound like it was a cylinder or two down...It would be extremely unlikely that the damage to each cylinder is 'even' enough to still sound ok...Each cylinder would need to have ingested similar quantity / size of debri etc etc... As for the ECU tune...I really doubt it is the cause...The ECU is very tolerant to changes (waiting for doubters to appear). I use stock R33 GTSt ECU on RB25/30 and make 270-280rwkw with very healthy AFRs. Engine has done 70,000 kms like this...You just need to understand it properly.....

+1 for me on this... You have 4 things that suggest it is something to with a boost leak past BOV.. 1. BOV sounds louder than what it previously did. 2. Turbo spooling can be heard even when inlet manifold pressure is in vacuum. 3. When boost starts to go +ve it is intially is very low and climbs.. 4. The only way the standard ECU (I assume this is what you have) will allow the engine to run at 15psi @6000rpm and not hit airflow cut (which is different to R&R) is if some/most of the air that has gone past the afm is recirculating..ie passing through compressor, through BOV and back to the compressor, then to BOV etc etc... Hope this makes sense...

You probably already know this but your alternator output will never be pure DC (even with a perfectly operating alternator)...There will always be some ripple component due to the fact alternator generates 3PH AC that is rectified by simple power diodes.. Good luck with it anyway and I hope you get it sorted...

This is often how unreliable engines start their life...by cutting corners during builds..How reliable do you want your engine to be?? Do things properly... Check the intake manifold flange for accuracy and get it corrected by a machine shop if necessary...Use a genuine Nissan gasket (especially for exhaust manifold) and fit / tension the nuts / bolts as per the workshop manual tightening sequence...I apprecaite you are not fitting an RB25 manifold but the factory tightening sequence, I suspect, will be more appropriate than whatever you come up with...No offence intended here so don't take any...

Spotted a red or maroon (I'm a little bit colour blind) R33 GTSt (GTS-xxx) and got a wave!! Also a gm grey R34 (STYLN - I think) both this morning near Sandgate this morn on the way to work...Dont think STYLN saw me??

Shove the EGT sensor your CD player...That'll work!! (So the time I spent writing a reply to you in regards to EGT location was 5 minutes wasted???)

Yes and no about the O2 sensor...The factory O2 sensor will only give you an accurate reading when your A/F ratio is close to stoichiometric which is around 14.7:1..You should only be running this type of A/F at light engine loads ie when you are on the freeway and just cruising... Gauges fitted to factory O2 sensors don't tell you enough info for power tuning...ie Safe A/F ratio for power is around 11-12:1. At this A/F ratio, the factory O2 sensor wont even give a reading let alone an accurate one...Its like trying to measure 20v on a 0 to 5v meter...The gauge will either tell you that the A/F ratio is RICH or LEAN 'but not' by how much...search Wikipedia for more info... If you are interested in tuning, the factory o2 sensor is useless. Get a good wideband sensor setup..be prepared to fork out some cash too...Also any extra gauge that you connect to the factory o2 sensor may skew the sensors reading...It never good practise to connect too many gauges to the one sensor..If you are really keen installa another sensor.. The best place to install the EGT is in the exhaust manifold BUT on a turbo car don't do it unless you understand what can go wrong (sensor breaking off and damaging turbine)...Mounted in the dump pipe is good from a safety point of view but no so much from a measurement point of view. Be appreciative of the fact that the dump pipe EGT will be lower than the exhaust manifold internal temp...If you do put it in the dump pipe, make sure it is as close to the turbo as possible.. If however you dyno the car with a good tune and get a baseline dump pipe EGT value at the same time, you can assume that this temp is safe and normal...Any significant increase in this temp later will indicate that something in the tune has changed and there is a problem...And before you ask, the dump pipe EGT will differ from car to car so dont ask what it should be...It will be a function of things like size/type of your exhaust, turbo etc..

Not what your definition of accuracy is? Factory O2 sensors are very accurate when it comes to measurement around stoichiometric A/F ratios (14.7:1)...Their accuracy falls rights away when you deviate too far from stoich, but for their intended purpose as a 'narrow band' sensor that is only used for fine adjustment of fueling during cruise when the ECU is closed loop, they are good. 'Wide band' sensors on the other hand have a much wider measurment range and will give reasonble indication at much higher and lower A/F ratios, right down or up to the extremes where the engine runs poorly or goes bang... Your stock rb26 would not have an EGT sensor I dont think...With the rb25 there is a temp sensor in the stock cat but the intent of this is to indicate a blocked cat. The best place to put and EGT sensor is in the exhaust manifold. The further away form the cyl head you get, the less accurate and more lag you get in your measurement...But the down side is if it breaks in the manifold, the bits go through the turbine...Although, I have been using a 1.6mm K-type sensor mounted in a manifold for about 3 years now and it still is in one piece and works well...

While I am here, spotted this morning Black R33 GTSt next to me at the lights next to Hexham Maccas heading north...Clean looking car dude...

I am probably the one with the GTR wing...Its a Skyline 40th year Anniversary option thats why its got the GTR wing and front bar on it....I work at Tomago but live in Newy so thats why you see me...

Sorry, my bad...HKS manifold moves turbo a fair bit...Still a low mount though...

IMO and based on my experience (I've gone through too much grief with them, both chinese SS and custom made heavy pipe) I would not go near any 'fabricated' low mount exhaust manifold on a six cyclinder engine (RB, 2J, 1J with single turbo) especially for street car. Esp the RB25 one... Simple reason is that they are too compact and there is no where the thermal expansion can go. (ie motor flange runs at cyl head temperature and turbo flange runs at turbo temp. Big difference in temps and thermal stress is huge because the temp differential is high due to compactness of manifold (short runners)...doesn't matter how strong the material is, it will crack eventually...High mounts don't suffer this problem because runners are longer and don't run length ways with the engine flange... For low mount set up on street car I would use stocker (extrude honed) or hunt down the HKS cast iron manifold. Hard to find but well worth it...

Insurance acts to insulate you from the stupidy of others...It does not protect 'you' from 'your' own stupidity...Thats the job of your own 'common sense'. Hopefully now you have a bit more of that inside your head...

It would be 'steal by finding' if the car is unlocked and the keys are in the ignition. I suppose if you break into the car or hotwire it you are breaching or breaking items that are intended to stop you taking the car in the first place, so you are stealing... People mostly get done for 'steal by finding' through finding money or a bicycle etc etc and not handing it in to the police...'goods in custody' is simply the old term for possessing stolen property...I thought it was also current term but I could be wrong...

If you just take it you are guilty of 'steal by finding' and 'goods in custody'.... Not to mention the fact that it may have been involved in crime and just dumped...could be stolen... I wouldn't go near it...

Yep Repco sell it....some stores keep it in stock...others dont but will order it in....

Not likely too be an issue but you should also consider thermal expansion of the different components in that area. Ie you would have to be unlucky, but it may be that when all is cold there is clearance and the flapper clears the divider but when engine is running and the flapper opens up it gets heated by the exhaust gas flowing past it and it expands to the point that it catches on the divider as it trys to close...Once again not likely to be that close but you never know...stranger things have happened For this type of issue "die grinder is your best friend"...

Another cause can be your exhaust...It may be too quiet!! Larger systems fix a whole range of annoying and groans and rattles... but seriously +1 for the gearset / bearing rolling noise...At idle, even in neutral, with clutch engaged (pedal up) input shaft, most bearings, gears /synchros still spin. Only thing not spinning is the output shaft. Put foot on clutch and everything in g/box stops (as long as car is stationary) except for throwout bearing which then has fair load on it.