KB240RB

Majority of my prices come from summitracing.com or jegs.com. Alot of things can be had for cheaper in group buys and forum advertising sales. I'm looking past the t04z because it just won't give the power I'm looking for. I've had one and it was nice but I'm looking higher. The 4294 is a little oversized for my goal but it should guarantee the numbers with everything working together and have room for more once I get bored. Maybe if I look hard enough i'll find a sale and spring for the bb center.

I thought it was done just outside Area 51. Haha

I coudnt imagine it costing more than a new oil pump. Personally i think its rediculous to have to spend over $1000 for a decent oil pump. Here in the states i dont any stock style oil pump costing anywhere near $1000 but the RB ones. Its a F'ing rip off.

lol. I dont know what weiiand blowers cost over there but there between 2-3k for like a 8-71 here. That would easily get it over 700hp. You could then go a little cheaper in the heads and still make the power. Personally i like turbo power better but doing a blow through carb setup drives horrible from what ive been told. Supposably its super lean on anything other than WOT.

Is it possible to take the N1 Pump apart and take the old gear to a machine shop and have a new stronger gear made?

600hp was on a SR20 with 67mm turbo. It was laggy. Very peaky powerband but it felt great to me. Had the economy of a 2.0L during normal driving but hauled ass at WOT which is all i want the power for. That turbo was full boost around 5500rpm and less tq than a 2.5 would have. I used it for street racing and the only cars around here that could stand with it would be a drag v8. But even then it was only cause they could dead hook off the line using a auto with trans brake. On the highway it was a different story. Was running with 1L bikes majority of the time. It had quite the reputation till i sold the engine back in September. I built that setup for $15k. Thats including the cost of the motor set, building it, different clutches used, tunes, gaskets, little odds and ends like that. Doing the work yourself saves a ton of money. I totally understand the concept of cubic inches and tq making for a way more responsive setup. In regards to that, I already having the RB fitted into the car, id like to use the platform. I believe in keeping things simple and using the parts internally to handle the power needs. Use the turbo thats gonna meet my flow requirements (doesnt have to be the bees knees, just something that works the way its made to). A proper MAP standalone for tuning. And a proper fuel system. Im not against using nitrous either for spool up if i would get into racing again. For now i just like a fast jaunt every now and then down the highway. From my understanding with the Journal Bearing and Ball Bearing turbos is the biggest difference being the transient response between shifts. Itll take a second longer to build boost again because of the journal bearing drags the speed of the wheel down during the shift. From what ive seen comparing 67mm journal and ball bearing turbos is not a large difference in spool time at all. Maybe 200rpm. Its just the response during shifts. Im not too worried about that. Once again im not out to win races at the moment. If i were into competing id definitly look at spending the money on a BB unit for the edge. The Rb30 block is a PITA to find in the states. People overprice them horribly. Id switch to a 2jz before doing that. I can deal with mid to upper 5000rpm for full boost. Currently ive got a 4.36 rear in my car and will be using a 26x10.5 tire. If revving out to 8500rpm, its got enough gear to reach 150mph in 4th gear. Thats perfect for the trap speed i hope to hit. Ive often thought about going auto but doing so i would need nitrous without a doubt. Sorry if i may have said daily driven. Itll be street driven. Not more than 100-150 miles a week. Weekend warrior for the most part. No sense on putting a shit ton of miles on a built motor.

I could do a sbc pretty easily here in the states. I can get all those parts you mentioned for half or a 1/4 of the price you mentioned. A high compression e85 carb setup would make alot of power. Especially if I would use a dart block and do a 4xx stroker. Majority of the power is in the heads. Spend 2k on a set of 18* heads and itll have plenty of flow. A solid lifter flat tapet cam would do the job too. I would definitly use nitrous though just to be sure I make the numbers or more. The problem with a v8 like that is crappy driveability with the carb. Guess I could always do a efi setup on the engine. Skys the limits with a sbc here in the states. I could do a new generation lm7 with lq4 aluminum heads and do a custom front mount turbo setup. Those engines stock handle 700-750whp with a solid tune. Alot of guys here are doing that through automatics. So almost 900hp at the crank. I can get the lm7 for 400$ and the heads for 200$. Then spend around 2k on a fuel system and around 3k on making my own turbo setup. A few hundred in new gaskets and such. Another 500 or so on good valve springs and a cam. A budget build on a v8 is possible.

Like 145+mph if you figure the car weighs 3200lbs stock trim including a full tank of gas and me. Back on topic, when do you guys think a 70mm turbo will hit full boost on a rb25?

I'm talking whp that's backed up with weight and trap speed. I don't buy into dyno numbers unless it's proven by a run down the track even if it's not for a good et.

I'm not gonna get into an engine debate. I've built a high power engine before for nowhere close to what your saying. Let's focus on the turbo at hand. If you dont have experience with it then please don't post.

I havnt yet built the engine. I'm looking at all possibilities. Even if that means selling it for a small block chevy. Lol. Internal wise I will obviously use forged pistons and I beam rods. Acl race bearings. Polish and balance the crank. Balance the pistons and rods as well. Head wise I'll be going solid lifters and 270 cams. Also a port and polish job. My neighbor does my machine work for me and I do the assembling. Fuel system will be 96lb injectors, aeromotive a1000 fuel pump, sump tank, and aero fpr. Probably a -6 feed with -8 return. Haltech ps2000 ecu. Of course I'll have to pick up more parts along the way but these are my main parts I'm focusing on. There are many people in the states making big numbers on journal bearing turbos. There not junk at all.

Just so you guys know, im not some baller with tons of cash to blow. Im an automotive detailer just trying to spend what i can to make as much power as i can. $2k-$3k turbos isnt gonna happen. There are other areas of the engine ill have to use that money for. I do everything in my garage with only help from my father when i need a hand with something heavy. My goal is to build an engine with everything working together as they should to make some impressive figures and show some people how to build something proper on your own. Money always buys the best things but you can still do something impressive without being the best.

Ive read a little about the GTX turbos. Newly designed billet compressor wheel and dual ball bearing. Ive heard them costing ALOT though. Well over the normal GT4294R. Im waiting to see tests of them. What do you guys think the GT4294 with a 1.05 Divided Housing and Divided Manifold would hit 20psi at? Ive seen the 3.0L Supra guys have 20psi @ 4600-4800rpm. I couldnt see it being but a 500-600rpm difference on a 2.5L.

It's for whatever I see fit. Street driving, dyno, highway, maybe 1/4. I'm not looking to set records. Just make the power that feels good to me. I had 600hp in my s13 and that didn't feel like enough for me. Now I have a rb in my s14 and want to go for more. I don't need to compete with people. As far as the journal bearing thing. There way cheaper to replace if something happens. For a street car I don't see the need to spend 2k on a turbo when so many others are available. I'd rather use the extra cash on a nitrous kit.

4088 is pretty close to a to4z.

Nevermind guys. Sorry I asked.

There not terribly different in size. The t04z is a 67mm and the 4294 is a 71mm. Why would you think you would need 11krpm? T04z is rated for 750hp and the 4294 is rated to 850hp. Plotting the compressor map, the 2.5L would be at the very top and end of the map of the t04z. But with the 4294 it's right in the middle showing 75% effeciency at 750hp. It's also well within the surge line of the 4294. I know it'll be laggy but it seems to be pretty matched for a 8500rpm powerband with the 2.5L.

Im gonna be building up my RB25 soon and im looking into my turbo options. I want a solid 700-750whp after its all done. Maybe more if it makes it. The turbo ive been looking at is the GT4294. Ive found it as low as $1000 in the states. Its the journal bearing version. How well would this turbo work out on the RB25 using a Divided 1.15 Housing on a Divided Manifold?

Currently my RB25 S1 is Manual. Id like to change to a Automatic. What all needs swapped over? Is it just the Trans, Flexplate, Converter, Trans Wiring, and TCM?

I always thought the 02 feedback only affected cruising AFR? Sopposed to keep the engine at 14.7 while cruising. After a certain MAF Voltage the ecu disregards its reading and goes strictly off the ignition and fuel map. Am i wrong?

Ill be using Nistune. Ive heard there knock reading feature doesnt work very well. I could be wrong though.

Mines doing something similar. Runs smooth up to 7psi, but if you go to 10psi or higher, power will feel like it comes on and off. Its nothing with the ignition, i have new coils, ignitor, and plugs. Ive cleaned the MAF. ECU throws no codes. Timing is perfect at 15*. Only other thing i can think of is some sort of built in fuel cut. Does the RB25 S1 ECU have a built in fuel cut for when it reaches a certain MAF Voltage?

What do you guys use as Knock Detection for when your tuning?

You can get the Billet Turbos in Journal or Ball Bearing. Wide variety of T3 and T4 exhaust housings are available. There are different compressor housing options as well. About 1000$ for the Journal version and 1400$ for the Ball Bearing version i think. Contact a turbo destributor and ask about the Precision Billet 6765. There are a couple being sold on ebay as well.

270 it is then. .1L shouldnt make a huge difference anyways.