WET-25T

Thanks for the replies R34 Gtt but if you could do me the biggest favpur i would really appreciate it. Could you find the sticker which should be located on the inside of the drivers door when u open it and tell me what it says to have the tyre pressure at. It will help me out alot. Cheers mate

Are you shi*ting me, u have 265's on the rear stock r34 gtt wheels? holy crap R33 stockies can only have 225's i think thats a massive difference. I was hopeing to put 245's

Hey i couldnt find all the info i wanted for them so thought i would ask. I know they are 17" by 7.5" wide (correct me if im wrong). What are the widest tyres i can fit on them, and what tyre pressure are they suppose to be inflated to? Cheers

I just put them on my r33 and they just touched the front calliper. I used a 3mm spacer to solve the problem. Looks good. Does that mean i have a type m r33 series 2?

Hey i just bought some and they hit my front callipers. I ended up buying 3mm spacers for the front only. Just to save anyone a headache thought i would let you know.

Cool thanks alot guys, i appreciate it

Hey guys I just needed to know if these tyres i want to buy will fit. The fronts are 18x8.5 or 9 and the rears are 18x10. The tyres on the front are 235's and the tyres on the rear are 265/35. Will these fit my r33?? I have stock suspension but plan on improving it in the future. Thanks

Well i dont know what the ignitor module looks like, all i can see is where the coil packs plug connects to another plug and wires. Im goin with a mate and his work friend cause he wants 2 get a supra from a Sydney car sales, so ill check out the skylines while im there. Hopefully i remember all the differences because i seem to always forget when im there. You guys make working out stuff so much easier. Cheers

Cool thanks guys. In regards to the headlights, i bought a second hand one that has clear glass compared to mine. The thing is i cant get the glass off to clean inside. I tried cutting the black silicone but couldnt pull it apart. How do i do it?

Cool thanks for the help. I also heard that they have the exact same chasis, so wouldnt they be able to change the bonnet and headlights as well. Plus all the little things. I know it would take a little work to do it, but i bought it from a dealer and im sure if they could make more money from making a series 1 look like a series 2 they would. I dont know what the igniter looks like but ill try find out if that will help me. Also thanks for the pics, i have the series 2 headlights but they r dirty, kinda yellowish which sux.

Hey guys, Bought my r33 series 2 a few months back and it was manufactured early 1996. I have recently found out that theres such thing as a series 1.5. I have also read somewhere on google that the series 2 started in the later months of 1996. I was thinking all you had to do was get a series 1, change the interior, front bar and fog lights, and the wing, all to series 2 parts. Then you have what looks like a series 2 on your hands. Obviously this would only work if the car was manufactured in 1996 some time. I just wanted to know how i can tell that i have a series 2. Call me paranoid but i almost bought a turbo pulsar Q that was made to look like a sss a few years back. So maybe one of you know exactly what to look for, or what numbers should be in the vin etc. Sorry if this has been covered but i couldnt find any info on it for the past hour. Cheers fellas

What the hell, how do you guys get so mans k's out of a tank. I only have a r34 gtt side mount, full exhaust, pod filter and am using the high boost DIY and i get 250 to 300 km's out of a tank with 98 octane fuel. I tend to flog it abit but still. I got 300 km;s when i tried not to flog it so much and thats the best i could get.

Sorry i didnt mean to upset you, i will end up getting a computer and other things but cant afford it right now. Anyways i gapped my plugs to 0.8 yesterday and now the car is fine. Thanks for the help guys i really appreciate it.

Thanks for the help guys but i really cant afford anything like that at the moment, got other commitments and i am only a second year apprentice, almost 3rd. Plus i hav had the car for about 3 months. I just want the cheapest way to fix it till i can afford a pfc ( which might not be for ages). Would plugs gapped to 0.8 help like copper ones? That would be a cheap fix .

Whats a safc, i hope not a computer cause i cant afford it atm. Well the plugs are new but i dont think they are .8 gap. Yea i was thinking about putting the old axhaust back on to see if that fixed it. Would i need a different afm? Which is better out of a z32 and 145 afm (kinda off topic) for if i do need one? Cheers

Hey, Ok on the weekend i put a xforce cat and xforce ss 3 inch cat back exhaust. When im boosting and hit 4500 rpm the car kinda stops boosting for a second or 2 and makes a couple of poping sounds from the exhaust than starts boosting again but even harder. It has gotten a little worse since yesterday and is now getting me worried. Today i changed my spark plugs back to the recommended ones but it made it a little worse so i put my iridium ones back in. I also sprayed carby cleaner on my air flow meter to clean it but still no effect. The mods are: R34 Gtt side mount intercooler Single boost controller set to 10 psi (just changed it to 9 psi but didnt fix the problem either) K&N pod filter And the cat and cat back exhaust I really dont know what else to do so i need your help. If you need anymore info that i have left out please ask me. Thanks guys

I had 1 or 2 threads tightend in so maybe it wasnt leaking, or if it was it wasnt much. I didnt check out how it was idleing and didnt notice anything. Just check out what bolts fit in its easy.

Sorry i dont know what size it was but the spanner was 14mm if that helps. Anyways i drilled it and its all good now thanks for the heads up munkyb0y

Your a bloody legend that will definately fix it and to think i use drills every day and didnt think of it, see what stress does... i was gonna try file it out or sand the sensor. But what about the metal shavings from drilling it, did u worry about them or try get them out? Also i had what i think was an earth wire connected to my old cat but it has no where to be screwed onto my new one now. What did you do with this? Or what should i do? Thanks mate

Hey guys, My sensor wont fit in the cat, i can tighten a thread or 2 but it doesnt fit like it did in my original one. I can see where its touching which is on the sensor just before the thread. It only needs less than a millimetre filed. So can i file it or is there another alternative? Also is the car driveable with only 1 or 2 threads tightened up? Cheers

Hey, As everyone says "search and you shall find" but in a ruder tone. All this info has been covered its just a matter of finding it. Anyways i did mine about a week or 2 ago and it went like this: Oil: Motul 4100 turbolight 10W/40, 5L $49.99 @ autobarn. Oil filter: Ryco Z145 $15.80 @ autobarn (i think i got 10% off). As for the filter you can get a nissan genuine filter, $15 i think. After alot of research thats what i ended up using and in future will use the motul oil and genuine nissan filter. Theres no point in using motul 300v unless your heading for the tracks. Incase your going to ask i bought genuine coolant from nissan and bought spark plugs and a fuel filter from autobarn so if you want to know the numbers for them let me know.

I start my car, set the turbo timer to 6 mins, go inside and brush my teeth, then jump in my car and by that stage its been on for about 3.5 to 4 mins, then i drive off and go the speed limit till it reaches its normal operating temp. After that if i feel the need to speed i will with a clear conscience.

I just start the car and let it idle for a little bit so the oil can flow everywhere before driving off.

LOL thanks guys i didnt even think to ask for hints or tips to get it off. Its been a few days now however. I was thinking how to prevent it and all i can come up with is putting like a jar or ice cream container over the bleeder screw. I used my hand for a bit but it gets really hot.

Hey, Just wanna say when you change your coolant and bleed it off wash your car straight after bleeding it off. I could see the coolant going on my engine from bleeding it off but didnt realise it was blowing onto the passenger side of my car on a very hot sunny day. I drove to tafe and back home to realise i had alot of little dots of it on my car and it was too late to wash it off, i almost cried . So i wanna warn you guys so you dont experience such painful emotions for no reason and almost cry like me.