Papu

My rev limiter is set to 7100 rpm with the power fc, and it feels like the engine is screaming for more revs with a gt 3582, etm manifold, plazmaman plenum etc. Even the tuner asked if he could set the limiter higher because the turbo still kicks in hard. I'm just afraid that the standard internals wont last, and when will the hydraulic lifters stop working so the rev limit is really an issue for me too. How would the engine last with rev limit set to 7500? Or should you change a better balancer first?

Hi, just want to clarify... Should the power fc turn on when you turn your key to acc, or when you turn your key to on? I found three black dots in the censor check: ign, eccs and wrn. But everything still seems to work fine on idle, haven't driven it yet. I even tried to change some values in the injector chart, turned the power off and on again and the values remained changed so it saves the changes. Anyway, my fc turns on when I turn the key to on, and I'm going to check the ignition and eccs relays and the pins 10,16,20,49,59,109 in the power fc that comes from these relays over the weekend. Any other ideas?

We didn't notice the length differense in springs when removing them and now I just want to double check to be sure. It seemed that you could not put them the wrong way, that they did not fit. That you could only put the longer springs on the exhaust side. Nobody seemed to remember how they went when searching the forums. Hope someone can remember or is working with the head at the moment.

Yep, 27mm. Just opened it a few weeks ago.

So I don't need to change the head gasket yet as the power figure for next year will be about 260-280rwkw, thanks for the advice. I was about to do it this winter while the car is standing in the garage. I'll change the metal gasket later, at the same time with the forged internals when we are going after more power.

I'm thinking about the same thing. I understood that if you want bigger boost (over~1,2bar), you need a stronger gasket. Can this be true? Or does it depend on something else?

Don't you normally weld extra on the joints to stiffen the chassis?

Could the release bearing carrier be too short? I had a similar problem with a different clutch (the car is r33): The tube, that the release sleeve carrier glides on, pushed the clutch blade all the time. This did not allow the clutch to release. I had to cut about 5mm off the tube for clearance.

Hi, I had the same problem with my door. I found out that a plastic nob, inside the mechanism that opens the door and were all the shafts inside the door goes to, had broke. Sorry, it's difficult to explain . I got the door open by "fiddling" the lock open-close-open-close-open and trying to open all the time. Remove the mechanism from inside the door and check if it works. I glued the nob back in place and the door worked ever since.

Thanks for the tutorial, it was easy to do with your instructions. Put 1.49mm shims on both sides and it's REALLY tight now, inner wheel jumping in tight corners. Can't wait to test it on the track. Hope it loosens a bit after some driving, that's what I understood from other posts. By the way, is there a specific place were the breather hose should be? Couldn't find any.

Problem solved, apparently the tube, that the bearing carrier glides along, pushed the clutch plate all the time and that's why the clutch did not release all the way.

Oh, sorry I forgot. The loose part in the fork goes away when I attach the cylinder. Then there is only a few millimetres and then the fork gets stiff.

My friend had a similar problem, he found out that the tube which carries the bearing carrier pressed the clutch plate all the time. And that didn't allow it to release, he had to cut about 1cm of the tube away to get it to work. Have to check today if there is any signs of contact. The bearing carrier had the lenght that was adviced in the instructions, but still there is about 1,5cm loose in the fork movement before it started to push the clutch (before it got stiff). Is that okay?

Okay, according to the picture the distance between the lines in the bearing carrier should be 14-16mm, agreed? I'll take the box out tomorrow and measure it. I just thought that the pieces would be right because they came in the same package, well you learn from your mistakes....

Sorry my english for the parts names isn't so good, but bearing carrier? I think it's the new part we changed with the bearing that I ordered with the clutch set from rhd japan. It is the part you attach to the bearing between the clutch and gearbox? It has the same effect you're right. I can send the japanese instructions if someone understands them. Yeah, by the way it is a dampered clutch if it has any difference. What is the right bearing carrier, have to check it out when I remove the gearbox... again.