Alex_r33s2gts25t

If your not planning on upgrading the turbo, get the R34 GTT SMIC. It is bigger and rated to handle more power and it bolts into the same position as your present one, so you will be able to install it yourself. Saves the hassle of trying to fit and mount a FMIC and $$$$. If u want more info on installing the R34 SMIC pm me, or there may already be a post of how to do the upgrade. Its rated for like 200+ rwkw so unless your gunna upgrade ur turbo you dont need a FM. Cheaper to buy and relativley easy to install...

Hey man i can help u with this as i just installed the exact same unit bout 2 weeks ago lol. This was for an R33 GTST... not sure how it would vary with other models but i can imagine it would be simillar. If you havent removed the factory boost solenoid your doing something wrong so start over, this is roughly how i did it: 1. I pulled out the factory air box (front right of the car) to give me more room to work with...4 bolts (its easier to loosen the hose clamp and unplud the connector and just pull out the AFM (air flow meter) attached to the box). 2. The factory boost solenoid (located behind the Air box) has 2 hoses attached to it. You need to unplug both of these from the factory solenoid. (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/1188354774/gallery_41505_11_38452.jpg) You need to block off the top hose with either a screw or a bolt that you can jam in for a tight fit then stick a cable tie round it just to be sure. The hose below, follow it until it connects to a T peice. This T peice joins the hose going from the intercooler (black pipe) to the wastegate (further down under). Pull out the T peice. This is where your boost controller connects up. im pretty sure the ARROW on the turbosmart tpeice points to the wastegate, it says it in the instructions, so plug that end pointing towards the waste gate and the other end to the peice of hose comming off the intercooler piping. Tighten with cable ties or even better small hose clamps if u have any (bunnings 3 bux each) You can now unplug the socket of the factory boost solenoid (wires going to ecu) and unbolt it from the car and remove it all together. I bolted the turbosmart into this space where the old factory solenoid was. Thats the easy part done, now you gotta do the wiring. Lemme see if i can remember how it went: 3. The brown wire you need to ground to the vehicle chasis, i used the O connector that came in the lil plastic bag, crimped it onto the wire, then put it under one of the bolts as u get the air box back on. 4. The blue extension wire u get seperate, from inside the car tape it to a coat hanger and under the glove box there is a rubber gromit (i removed the glove box to give me more room dunno if its necessary or not) on the wall of the car. Its about 10cm in diameter and has a wiring stack comming through, poke the coat hanger through the rubber (i had to make a new hole cause it was a bastard to get through) then pull the wire through into your engine bay, just enough to reach the boost controller. They give you some black plastic shrink wrap, slide some down one end of the wire before you join them up, then you can slide it over the join and heat it with a lighter to seal your joining of the blue wires. 5. Now inside the car, you need to decide where your gunna put the switch. I drilled a hole into my dash to the left of the fuse box, (bottom right of dash). Only drill a hole big enough to fit the switch and its neck through, then youll tighten the cap around the outside to hold it in place. (the caps meant to sit so u open the cap, then flick the switch (to go high boost), but when you shut the cap it automatically flips the switch back down). 6. Run the blue wire to the switch, attach the female connector peice to the end of the wire, crimp it onto the wire... then it just slots onto one side of the switch. Preferably while the switch is down, with the cap closed, it should go on the side the switch is selecting in its off position. (i.e switch pointing down, it should be on the lower connector, the direction the switch is pointing) 7. I found i needed to get some more wire from dicksmiths to run the top half of the switch to a power source. Make sure the wire is the same thickness if u dont have enough. Attach this next wire to another female connector and slot it onto the remaining connector at the back of the switch, then run the other end of the wire to a 12v power source running of the ignition. There are some wires in the car which are constant 12v, u dont want this as it will power the boost controller even with your car off (if u leave the switch on) and flatten your battery. Then there are wires which will run 12v once you turn the keys to ACC (accessory) this is fine, and wires which will only run 12v once you actually start the ignition of the vehicle, even better. You can test wires using a multimeter, by inserting a pin into a wire (carefully), then grounding the black electrode to the chasis, and the red (positive) to the pin, nd test the wire with car off, acc, and then on check the voltage runnin it should be round the 12mark. You may wanna disconnect the - terminal of the battery before proceding lol to be safe... Anyway i just hooked mine up to the cigarette lighter because it was the easiest for me to get too... one screw behind the ashtray and the dash just pops out. The cigarette lighter had like 3 cables commin of it.. one was acc, one was for the light around it, and the other was ground. Pretty much, the wire on its own is the light, the other 2, black is generally ground (i cant reembr wat colour the wires were) and the other was the ACC 12V, so i just very carefully striped some of the plastic off it and wrapped the wire around this. You could just cut the wire and wind it back together with the blue wire, and heat shrink wrap it or electrical tape it, whatever u do make sure its covered well so it wont touch any other surfaces. and thats about it... its doable... if your unsure get a friend who knows how to use a multimeter to help you with the wiring bit of it. You can also wire it up to the wiring block comming of the ignition but it seemed like too much effort lol. Make sure you have an aftermarket boost gauage installed... so u can detect boost spike and get a more accurate reading of your pressure... Remember to have both dials at their minimal settings... and remember you cant go above 10psi (0.69 bar??? from memory double check that) without a piggyback for your ecu or the car will richen the air/fuel rations thinking somethings wrong and it will run like shit. After i installed mine, for some reason the car is boosting at 10psi at its minimal setting (factory is like 7 at its high point)... with the dials turned to their lowest positions... the factory boost guage is telling me 8psi and the aftermarket one is telling me 10psi thats why its important to have one. Also means the switch is useless till i get a SAFC for the ecu, and even then remember not to go above 12psi as your at the limit of the factory turbo. ALSO do not up the boost unless you have upgraded your intercooler or u risk detonation nd damaging your engine... your post was lite on info so i just threw all this in, just incase you werent aware. I think that about covers it... reassemble everything back how it was lol... if you have any questions pm me. g'luck with your install

Ill take the pod filter cover , pmd u

i think the tsutsutsu was his way of writing flutter noise .... lol i swear the car feels different... maybe im just lol but i swear the car is smoother all round. I left the top half of the factory airbox just sittin over bit of the pod, i noticed the radiator blows alot of hot air back that way so if i can keep some of it off with that cover, and hopefully get some cooler air from the funnel then its all good lol, also makes it more inconspicuous... cept when it goes VSHHHHHH. What other things can be done to get cold air too it without moving it out of the engine bay? Held the old filter up to the light nd i could see dim light through it... but yeah... lol re the mods back to front, i had a good opportunity arise to get parts cheap from YOYO which i was gunna eventually look for so i nabbed em. (and its a corsair not a laser lol) everything works great yoyo, thanks bra Whats a turbo back exhuast???? compared to the catback???

Hey guys, just thought id share my latest... from a stock R33 GTST ive upgraded the intercooler, boost controller, put on a boost guage, bunch of asthetic mods, stereo etc, but only today did i get around to putting the Pod filter on and the difference it has made to the feel of the car is VERY noticable. Before it used to feel different, when under load the car would feel held back, hit the odd flatspot, or shudder slightly at times as if it were being choked... even when idling it feels different it used to shudder more at low rpm etc... Now the car just goes so smooth, comming on acceleration, smoother idling, screams like a banshee and even has more power... it has probably made the most noticable difference driving wise compared to all the other mods ive done... So anyone who can relate to the above, if u havent put a pod filter on it yet, do so . I got the adapter from supercheap (theyre also at repco and autobarn), and the 3A racing filter from autobarn. (autobarn prolly the cheapest). Bout 60 buxish all up. Cant wait to get the exhuast done.

Heya, i dont think the drift guage is faulty, it sells for 90 bux... nd is pretty lol... I havent done air intake or exhaust mods yet... pod filter is on its way from ebay nd exhuast wont be for a while. Ahwell i dont really need the turbo to boost more than it is at the moment anyway lol, after i get the exhaust and a safc ill get tuned on a dyno and they can look at it then thanx for input guys

I did remove the factory boost solenoid... and what spring inside tpeice???? lol i just hooked the tpeice between the turbo nd wastegate like the instructions said and blocked off the other top hose which went to the factory boost solenoid... nd yeah at its minimal settings its at like .75 bar lol What sort of things would i need to check to see if anythin went wrong in installation?? Im pretty sure i did everything correctly though cause it all works lol

Evening fellow car lovers... My car - R33 GTST Recently i did the following modifications... upgraded to R34 GTT intercooler, installed Turbo Smart Dual Stage Boost Controller (switch mounted in cabin to switch between a high and low boost setting) and a Drift Boost Guage. Installed everything myself... Now... with the boost controller at its minimal settings (as low as the dials can go), im getting 2 different boost readings between the factory guage and the aftermarket one. I installed the aftermarket one onto the thicker hose commin off the intake manifold goin to the fuel pressure regulator (so the guages are taking readins of opposite sides of the intake manifold). Stock guage is telling me about 8-9 psi... aftermarket guage is telling me 0.75 bar... thats like near 11psi?? Why/Which is correct??? lol in oversight whats the point of having a dual stage boost controller if at its low boost setting its already at the limit of the factory turbo (i wasnt planin on upgradin the turbo) Any input would be greatly appreciated

On second thoughts i dont think it was the air filter... its the standard air box nd its pretty far back under the hood, water couldntve reached it i only washed the body. It was driving a lil better today :\ but still, when i feel it struggle i just ease off the gas till it catches up with itself if that makes sense lol... iunno.. ill get it tuned when i upgrade the intercooler nd boost...

lol im thinkin it may have been the air filter gunna go for a test drive shortly see if its still doin it..

Took my auto r33 gtst for a wash tonight (all hail car lovers), nd then was just drivin around to let it dry... anyway when it dried a little i started to drive it a bit harder nd it was kindah struggling comming on load, like could feel the seat shudder as it was building speed (like it wanted to and kept trying but just couldnt get the smooth acceleration) and could hear this BPOO BPOO commin from the muffler every now and then not a load explosion just not normal sound whats the go?? any ideas?

lots of usefull info there thanx guys! I might try the gladwrap one not! lol

pmd you, bagz the turbosmart nd gtt smic

Do u have the original stock R32 wastegate actuator? If so ill buy

Yeah i heard that its legal as long as its covered nd isnt an oil filter... thanx guys

Whats the law say about pod filters??? Can they get u defected?

Hey man, im sortah in a simillar boat to you, i been doin alot of reading and i think ive worked out the best way to get the most out of my car without goin to far overboard... i have a 96 s2 r33 gtst (turbo version) so this is my rough action plan (if urs is non turbo just ignore the turbo components). First thing i did was car alarm, tinted windows, car stereo, and 19" deep dish x factor rims... then i did the increase boost mod u see on these forums to bypass the dual stage boost and set it to a constant 7/8psi... and these r my plans for whats commin next... (in no real order) 96 Nissan Skyline R33 Series 2 GTS25T Future Modifications: - Exhuast - full 3" split dump and quality 3" high flow cat keepin size all the way to the back, mandrel bent with high flow muffler - Intake - Apexi POD Filter with cold air box and cold air intake (this will allow u to hear turbo without need for BOV) - New Springs to lower the vehichle - R34 GTT Side Mounted Intercooler - Turbosmart dual stage boost controller OR R32 Wastegate Actuator to increase turbo boost pressure to 10/11psi - Turbo timer - Neons - Apexi Power FC ECU upgrade - Dyno Tune

Hi guys, i have a couple questions regarding engine mods... I have a '96 series 2 R33 GTS25T skyline nd im trying to work out how to increase my performance without having to spend a crap load of money... which is where u guys come in! ive done the boost mod from the DIY section so the car runs constant 7/8psi instead of the 2 stage crap... Next i plan on doing the exhaust and air filter... i figure its best not to skimp on these so im thinking full 3" split dump and quality 3" high flow cat keepin size all the way to the back, mandrel bent with high flow mufflers... The intake... gonna remove the standard airbox nd replace with a pod filter... whats the law on these? I heard somewhere oiled filters are illegal... and that pod filters are illegal if their not covered? Whats a good way to go here? Apexi pod filter nd a cold air box /w cold air intake?? Any more info or links on this would be appreciated Nd finally... to get more from the turbo without havin to spend alot on a front mounted intercooler.... would this work: R34 GTT intercooler, nd R32 GTST waste gate actuator... the r34 intercooler pretty much bolts straight onto where the current intercooler is with minimal modification but is rated for more power... nd the R32 waste gate actuator is the same as the one in my car apparantly but the spring is set for 10psi?? Would that work... ANd lastly i remember reading in other forums that you can hear the turbo noises with the factory BOV just by replacing the air filter with a pod filter... nd get the flutter by unplugging a vaccum hose or something?????? Any ideas and info and corrections and suggestions will be very much appreciated ... also if u guys know where i can get the parts required above (intercooler nd actuator mainly) Alex

Ahhh thank you very much ill look into it when i get spare time thanx again

Hi guys, im new to the forum, this place has an amazing collection of information which i think is awesome. I recently bought an auto 96 model series 2 R33 GTS25T and when its idling the revs sit around the 5-600 mark (seems to be low???) except when i first start it and the engine is cold itll idle just above 1000. At the low revs the engine will shudder every now and then... does anyone know how i can fix this? (i am a n00b when it comes to cars i always get the mechanic to do everythin lol so dont skip on details thinkin i know .. thanx for ur help Guys Alex