Piggaz

Nor should it either. Same ethanol %, just the fuel part of it is rated higher.

A lot can be tuned out. Get the "twin turbo pipe mod" done, a decent computer, make sure the actuators are set up the same and a tuner that knows what they're doing. You shouldn't really be shuffling with baby -9's.

Don't waste your time with a second hand loom. Brand new OEM. They're not expensive.

You're not the first bloke to have this issue. I haven't personally though.

Stroke it and use the 8374.

Just put it in an acoustic rated box, on a box trailer and tow it.

Set the limit higher and keep an eye on the tacho. Shift at an indicated 7000-7500 rpm and all will be fine.

Have been running a Tomei 2.8 since 2005. Popped an oil pump in 2012 and put the crank back in. There are for and against arguments for full counter and semi counter cranks.. In theory full counter are better, but, keep the revs sane and match everything up , does it matter? You're after a "response" setup. If you need to rev more than 8500 rpm then you're doing it wrong.

This is true, but I call bullshit. Mine has been working fine for the last 9 years with the Nismo slave. No idea why they say this.

Bosch 044 has a working lifespan of 500 hours on E85. Just something to consider.

It's the way they are. You'll get used to it.

Nismo plenum!!! Big spenda!!!

Even on a 2.8, go the 60's. For the last two years you've been talking about "response". 60 mm will make enough power.

Fark yeah. Not a friendly circuit for the tall geared R.

What were the mufflers like? Some mad restrictive things?

Oh look at that, a small exhaust being shit for the engine everywhere... Small exhausts are for "response".... Yawn! Nice work fat man. Sort that front pipe out and even more to be had!

Get a bigger alternator

Same plates just in white and black? Fark custom plates. That coin could go to the OS88

To put things in perspective. D Jetro is worth say $1000? What's it gonna cost to pull the intake off, drill cylinder 3 and 4 runners for the MAP sensors positions and put it all back together. Let's call it $3-400. L Jetro. Cost of ecu itself is $700 second hand. IF you need Nismo AFM's, let's call that $500 second hand or $700 new. That's $1,400 either way A Link G4 would be something around the $1,800 zone. No drilling, far more advanced ecu, can support things like ethanol sensors if you need it later on. (Never say never) All of a sudden the old dinosaur FC isn't such "value for money" anymore.

You'll be pulling that paper weight back off in no time if you bolt it to your head. Farken junk manifolds they are. Both in EVO's and GTR's. They should come with cracks out of the box... It would save you the trouble of pulling it off later.

Nismo twin plate c spec.

One of the best mods you can do to a GTR IF you like to get on the power early in a corner.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

What tyres do you have and what suspension have you got under it?

Why not pull every fuse one by one and see if any of them are blown. If so, change it and see if it fixes it.