Piggaz

Has until the 20th of July or it’ll go out on the council cleanup.

Whatever you first “budgeted”, ATLEAST double it to begin with.

Hi guys, I have my old sim racing driving rig for sale. I have used a Fanatec DD1 and clubsport bases over the years on this. Due to its size and weight it’s a pick up only item. Located in Kogarah Bay, NSW 2217. Price - $100 or 2 cases of Coopers Red. Cheers, Paul. EDIT. SAU isn’t allowing me to upload images for some reason. Will try tomorrow.

That’s after 4. 4 Carona’s. So not even 4 beers.

You make my brain bleed with your bullshit.

Interested. I do however have a few questions if these things are flops. If they vibrate and carry on like pork chops are they able to be returned? I was part of the ACPT carbon shaft group buy some 12 years ago and it was nothing but a nightmare. From guys destroying shafts and picking them up off the road to trying to get them balanced two and three times.

A single intank 460 would have been fine considering stock glass gearbox and stock bottom end. ?‍♂️

Bosch stepped their game up! Nice!

Yep.

Between the 1.05 and 1.45 housings is 7 mm. The dump has to move back 7 mm, it doesn’t matter if it’s a 80 mm wheel or 74 mm wheel.

It would be turbo specific to fit the right sized turbine wheel.

How do you accelerate without using the throttle... unless rolling down a hill? ?

Can’t see how it couldn’t if you get pistons for a RB25. 71.7 mm stroke 121.5mm rod RB25 piston its the same geometry as a factory RB25. if you got a piston for a RB26 or a HKS 2.8 it wouldn’t be right. You can use any length of rod, crank and piston pin height you want, just need to make it up or lose it in another area. At the end of the day you have the same length rods as a factory RB25 even though they’re out of a 2.8 kit. Just so happens that it all works. Have you considered sourcing a stock RB26 (73.7mm) crank and pistons? If you’re buying pistons anyway, get a crank for a cheap stroker kit.

That’s a seperate issue all together. Wherr the pin sits in the piston itself. If the RB25, RB26 and some RB28 kits use the same 121.5 mm rod but have different stroke lengths then the difference must be where the pin sits in the piston considering they all go in the same height block.

All depends on pin height.

PPG do one for the 5 speed.

Wouldn’t be so bad if it was only just the turbine housing. Need the manifold to suit.

Incorrect. RB25, RB26 and the HKS 2.8 use 121.5 mm rods. From memory the RB25 NEO ran RB26 rods from the factory. HKS get away with using a factory length rod while using the 77.7 mm crank by moving the pin in the piston.

Be waiting a while. Maybe the new HKS journal bearing nuggets. ??

Forget the 0.92, go the 1.05. Below is a back to back on a 2.7. Blue is 8374/1.05 and red is -5’s. Only change was associated pipework to make the single work.

Jap is always best in some eyes. ??‍♂️

Having done this exact conversion myself, 8374/1.05 all day. A dyno sheet only shows show much, actually, throw the bloody thing in the bin. 8374 to -5’s is much more than 300 rpm difference, more like 500-700 rpm not to mention the zing under the foot once you put the twin butt plugs in the dumpster where they belong. Transient response difference between the two setups are night and day... ALMOST 1/3rd the time, the winner going to the 8374. This was shown by logs off a mates car who also went between these two exact setups on a 3.0. Thats something that is not shown on a dyno sheet with a WOT loaded run. Having also been in two different cars (2.6/baby vcam/-5’s and 2.6/baby vcam/8374), the 8374 would destroy it EVERYWHERE.