Piggaz

Have used AutoGlym. It's watery garbage. Try http://www.poorboysworld.com/. Depending how how bad the swirl marks are use http://www.poorboysworld.com/professional-polish.htm if they are light or if you need a bit more ommph use the http://www.poorboysworld.com/pro-polish-2.htm followed by the first product I listed. Seal it then wax it. Great stuff that poorboys gear is.

Installation error?

Ah, a clunk here or there i'm not fussed about. If anything it adds character to the car Yeah, I hear you GTSBoy with the one wheel in the air bizzo. Hmmm.

Oil pump decided it would break up into 9 pieces. No oil pressure. Ex cam welded itself to the cam caps, pistons hit valves... errr!

Isn't it funny. The V spec was the more expensive car but in the end you rip out everything that made it a V spec to begin with! Argh... Quaife or Nismo 1.5 way. :\

Anyone got a S3 lip for sale

That looks unreal!!!!

How is that the injectors fault?

Nothing but problems? Problems like what?

Yeah fair enough I got a mate to price up shafts and housing from his mate in Japan. Came to just under $1000, which seems pretty good considering what you paid. Yeah, I'm very impressed with my Quaife front. Just plant your foot and point, it's rediculous!!! Definitely makes you realise how bad the standard setup is!

Thanks Tricstar. That's exactly the info I need. How do you find the Nismo? I was looking at putting a Quaife in mine which have only just been released. I have one in the front and love it to bits. Did you get your non v spec stuff second hand? If so, what sort of coin did it set you back? Michael: Were you still interested in a Quaife rear?

I'm looking at putting an aftermarket rear diff into my car and throwing the standard "A-LSD" in the bin. From what I can gather, I need all the Non V spec gear to make this work but what EXACTLY do I need? Does anyone have a part listing so I can go and get it? I assume all aftermarket diffs require the same thing wheather it be a Nismo, Tomei, Quiafe.

FFS... Double post.

You may have a bucket load of orders... Pics, pics, pics.

So say "pick up and drop off at Unigroup" and we are good?

That too. You will understand once you get them in.

Yep. Definitely idles much better with the 2000's.

Not sure on how much fuel you're going to save by swapping but driveability between the two is night and day. Having gone from Sard 800's to ID 2000's there is a significant difference between the two.

Got an after shot?

They're still in Japan man haha. But no.

I know. Remember I asked what size and offset they were . A lazy 285's will be going on these mofo's!

A little update. Rang Unigroup today to see how the sperm whale was going. Done bits and pieces. The pests that want to go to power cruise have jumped ahead inline! Grrr! New "road rims". 18 x 10 + 20. Booya!

Item: Precision 6466 CEA T4 Divided V-Band. Price: $1990 Condition: Brand spanking new. It’s been out of the bag a total of 5 minutes to have a look at it. Payment: Direct debit to my account, Or cash on pickup (if in Sydney) Reason for sale: I honestly can’t be bothered changing the whole setup again. I was going to put it on the shelf and get to it at a later date, however, I think a rear diff would be more beneficial to the car. How to contact: Via PM Some info about the turbo: Model: 6466 CEA T4 Divided V-Band Power: 905 HP Compressor wheel diameter: 64 mm Turbine wheel diameter: 66 mm Precision recently redesigned their 65mm turbine wheel, improving on its efficiency, and increasing the size to 66mm. They advertise a 30hp boost in power with the same, or better spool thanks to its better design. The new 66mm turbine wheel is a CEA design which means you will gain the similar benefits from a cast CEA exhaust wheel as you do from the billet CEA compressor wheel. Here is an interesting comparison done on a built supra. Turbo’s are 6266, 6466 and 6766. Photo's of the turbo:

Throw that crap straight in the dumpster!!!

Rough estimate?