Piggaz

Has anyone found the power/torque limit of one of these? I know the competition model has a rating of 780 ps but that could be conservative. I've have never heard of someone saying 'upgrading to a triple because this can't hold my power'

^^ Does that mean an ester based oil is fine to use with an alcohol based fuel? (getting back on topic)

Everything is good in hindsight mate.

By the time you need to rebuild one you would have more than likely sold the car.

About $2,000 give or take. From any Jap online store. Google is your friend.

So $2,000 give or take. Is the shipping by sea or by air?

Just a heavy pressure plate. The friction plates are the same. Normal version is rated at 640 ps and the competition is rated at 780 ps IIRC. For the sake of a little more just get the big one.

What noise? If it makes a noise I've never heard it.

Forget all the junk you have heard. The two above me and myself are using them. No issues, no complaints and definitely won't be changing to anything 'better'. Just buy one and be another happy camper.

After the ACPT bullshit, whats the go with shafts that don't work or are faulty?

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in . Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out. Bottom bearing. 15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

What tyres are on it?

LOL. That's why it broke.... it was being driven like a fairy! Thanks Joey . Not sure. It made it to HKS but the guy doing it wanted a bee's dick more out of somewhere..... so it went back to NAPREC. Sigh.

LOL! You proberbly saved the bottem end driving it like a nanna. Thanks mate.

The thing I don't get Ian is this. You're after 'more torque' which means a curve which has more area. Now the GTR engine/2.6L lacks grunt south of 4000 - 4500 RPM, Yet you're using a turbo which is proven over and over again that simply does not work in that area. In my own experience I have picked up 100 RWKW at 4500 RPM. That means more torque yes? After being there and used them, I couldnt care what capacity I have behind them I wouldn't use them. You say you want more power than the -5's can produce... What is their upper limit? I was at 425RWKW with cam timing with hurt its top end. A simple twist of the intake cam would reel off 450. Thats at 24 peak tapering down to 22 psi topend. (although its on E85, however its a super safe tune) For you to make 303 at 18 psi on RS's there must be a serious serious restriction somewhere. It aint the airbox. Exhaust? Possibly, but wouldn't be the full cause of it.

I see what you did there . haha. Only had to last 3 more months

So when you going to try for a 9 Dave?

Competition. It wasn't broken. It was destroyed!

I believe thats the case yes. Gav didnt get rear housing with his set.

When I say chop up the car I meant not OEM intake piping. Thats a shame as it's nice to have it looking all standard!

No way. my -5's on my 'pussy' 2.8 refuses to shuffle. Any gear, any hill, any load. Thats with standard manifolds. When I had the RS's is was just bloody stupid. The GTX's are not a direct bolt on. I don't know about you but if I am going to hack my car up to make them fit they would wanna produce north of 500!

OK. SO I have been using 300V on my E85 fueled GTR for the past 15 or so months. I had a oil pump failure which practically destroyed the head, however the bottom end survived (A quick polish of the crank and its good to go). After pulling the engine down last weekend some of the big end bearings STILL looked like they had just come out of the boxes. I will take some photo's when I get the chance. I would have loved to pull it down before the shitty pump failure. That engine was 7 years old with 32,000 Kms on it most of its life up around 400 RWKW with upto 2 bar shoved down its throat. However it wasn't revved past 8000 RPM all that much (But was driven hard). It also didnt breathe any oil into my catchcan. After seeing that and hearing all these stories ranging from 'Your engine is going to die within 200 kms' to 'the oil will turn to jelly if left longer than a day in the sump', I won't be changing after its rebuilt! 300 V FTW!