Piggaz

If the car is back together i'll be in for sure Andrew. If not, be down to watch people blow up .

Half a second improvement on a 1/4 mile is a bit generous! Lol.

4th no. 5th that's up to you. I kept the OEM 5th for highway cruising. The OS 5th is shorter than OEM. If the gears themselves are fine then reuse them. Is it a Series 3 gearbox? If not you will need those parts. There is a list of those parts on SAU somewhere.

What he meant to say was number 1

Option 1.

26's have one blocked off from factory and the feed to the head is in the rear.

LOL!

Sounds good. The 1.1 mm gasket, what brand was it?

They are $300 odd bucks plus postage. Hardly budget busting.

Rebuild kits are worth about $1,000. Then labour to redo it all. Unless the clutch is $200 it wouldn't be worthwhile IMO.

What was the CR you ended up with Sean? Have you worked that out? I apologise if you have said it already

Has anyone found the power/torque limit of one of these? I know the competition model has a rating of 780 ps but that could be conservative. I've have never heard of someone saying 'upgrading to a triple because this can't hold my power'

^^ Does that mean an ester based oil is fine to use with an alcohol based fuel? (getting back on topic)

Everything is good in hindsight mate.

By the time you need to rebuild one you would have more than likely sold the car.

About $2,000 give or take. From any Jap online store. Google is your friend.

So $2,000 give or take. Is the shipping by sea or by air?

Just a heavy pressure plate. The friction plates are the same. Normal version is rated at 640 ps and the competition is rated at 780 ps IIRC. For the sake of a little more just get the big one.

What noise? If it makes a noise I've never heard it.

Forget all the junk you have heard. The two above me and myself are using them. No issues, no complaints and definitely won't be changing to anything 'better'. Just buy one and be another happy camper.

After the ACPT bullshit, whats the go with shafts that don't work or are faulty?

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in . Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out. Bottom bearing. 15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.