Piggaz

Someone needs to bite the bullet and whack these babies on. Graph overlap. You don't get something for nothing..... but it would be nice! As long as they dont shuffle/surge and no huge increase with boost threshold, they should be a great thing! Will HKS bring something new out to match the garrett range?

I should have thrown you the keys at Winton.

I am not sure if it was the trigger or the ECU to allow it to idle solid. Although I do remember when we first put the ECU in and Yavuz whacked in a few numbers, the first thing I did notice was the idle being so much more steady. At that time the car was still running off the factory CAS. No neither of our cars were out there today. You MAY see mine if you're out there next week.

Cheers Jack. Ride? Pfft. Take the keys! I think your exhaust had alot to do with it

Not sure. I would have to ask him. I'm sure he would be able to pull up some sort of log for that. I do know we went from 1.7ish bar to 2.0 bar and it made an extra 12 kw. That was obviously on the RS/Rubbish setup.

Holy jesus. Give it some mech sympathy! Did the OS box have the OS Centre plate also? Don't you start. I love it so much I am seriously thinking about building a 3.0. The 'little' 2.8's can't compare!

MLR has the trigger setup although he may has the Ross CAS replacement cover. I can't remember. EDIT: Thats just a cover. I could of had that also, but Yavuz and Ross retained the factory CAS in the "Final revision" to help with starting.

How much power do you want Gav? 600 + WHP is no slouch

Did you read my opening post Zebra? That's what the WHOLE thread is about! There are two logs there; one from the factory CAS and one from surprise surprise.... the Ross trigger!

Ahh. That one with the BW turbo on it. Nice Yavuz would love you as it's a big single! I had a look, the manifold is automotive porn! Power delivery. Well its very hard to comment as I changed to a Link G4 plug in + 7 BAR MAP sensor at the same time. But the starting (cold and warm) shits all over the PFC, it idles smoother and alot more stable. That is even with ID 2000's (2225 cc worth of injector)

That's still over in Japan. Can't wait for that bad boy

RB26 thread!

Well don't forget the dumps were changed also. It would have been nice to do a back to back, but It was such a rush to get down to the NATS as it was! Ramp rates. I don't know but I can find out when I am out there next.

It will work with a PFC. It's just an extra converter box. Steveo had the same issue with his RB30. Even Terry had this issue with his Blue V Spec II and that was just the typical "300 kw bolt on RB26"

I wanted my airbox and BOV's back otherwise I would have kept it. I had the same core on order but in a singe entry, but ARC went under before it got made!

It is pretty exciting to see these things finally out! Hopefully they don't carry on like the RS/-10's do. It would be nice if they improved the turbine wheel also!

Hey guys, Some of you may know my car has undergone some pretty radical changes. A quick rundown of the previous setup was; GT Block, Tomei 2.8, 270 @ 10.25mm procams, Nismo AFM's, ARC Twin entry intercooler, HKS GT-RS Turbo's, HKS dumps, HKS frontpipes and a Kakimoto Full Mega N1 catback all controlled by the old faithful Power FC. That setup on E85 @ 25 PSI returned a result of 402 RWKW. There was a few little issues with this setup. One was a fairly obvious exhaust restriction which was in the form of a 2.5 inch restrictor in the rear muffler of the catback. BAD. Another one (although there are an argument for and against with this) is the HKS split dumps. They have been replaced with Tomei Series 1's. The biggest issue was the timing jumping around above 6000 RPM like a clown on a pogo stick. I realise some workshops don't seem to have/log/know-about this issue, but we did and it got sorted. The problem here for those that may not understand, is that the timing signal to the ECU is not accurate and consistent and means the tuner can't be as aggressive or precise with the ignition maps throughout the rev range. This has a roll on effect that the car wont produce as much power reliably as it could/should. The emphasis here is on reliability over power as we all want reliable cars, which is the reason I have decided to do this thread. Below are the logs of the timing on the standard Nissan CAS setup. Below are the logs of the timing with the new external trigger setup. The new setup consists of a Ross balancer and a 36 minus 2 teeth trigger wheel and pickup. This is the first FULLY completed kit to be put on a car. Ross is now selling this as a kit made for the RB26 as a bolt on part and works with a large number of ECU's (all the main ones are supported). The only thing you see on the car is a wheel behind the balancer and a pickup, but to the untrained eye you really won't notice it. The OEM CAS stays to help with starting. The car fires up first time, everytime. That's something that the Power FC couldn't match, especially if the car was cold in the middle of winter due to the E85. The pickup and tooth wheel. CAS is looking factory. Changes to the car from the previous setup are; Modified Garrett -5's (exhaust housing's ported to gasket size and Racepace Motorsport modified actuator arms) , Link Plug in ECU with a 7 bar map sensor, Ethanol sensor (more on that later), Tomei Series 1 dump pipes, Nismo intercooler, Racepace twin 3 inch exhaust from dump pipes back, Ross trigger kit/Harmonic balancer. I even went back to a factory airbox after running the pods for the last 12 months. I also have a TechEdge Wideband kit that I asked Yavuz to link bank into the ECU. This enables the ECU to 'trim the mixtures' while on the freeway. A little bit of fuel economy in such a highly modified car is nice sometimes! First thoughts going from the old to the new setup is RESPONSE! It's on all the time. In places where I would be in 2nd gear hard up it, I can use 3rd and half the throttle and it's going equally as quick. I can completely understand when "Gav" (a WA forum member with a very similar setup) said "I have a choice of 2 gear's in any corner on the track". There is also NO shuffle with these turbo's. I couldn't get away with going up any sort of incline without the GT RS's having a spaz attack. This would play havoc with the AFM's and would send my AFR's south of 10:1 (Wideband readout). The ethanol sensor is pretty much a carbon copy of what Daniel in Victoria did to his car. Same sensor and ECU. After being on E85 for just on 12 months I got sick to death of carrying around a crazy amount of jerry cans to do an event (Thanks Steveo for being the E85 tanker for me ) Some of the Vic guys can attest to this at one of their own DECA's. 11 jerry cans were taken down from Sydney to do what really is a skidpan day and had to duck into Melbourne to grab another 5, just to make sure we got home. Stupid it was! Below is an overlay of the RS setup and he -5 setup. Pink being -5 and Green being HKS GT RS's. More tuning will be done on the E85 tune in the very near future as we ran out of time before the SAU Nationals. The dyno graphs above were all done with the EBC OFF. Boost peaks at 24 psi and trails off to 22.5 22 psi top end. I'd like to see how far these things can go. Yavuz think's 440 450 rwkw with a little more boost and some more timing but the actual testing will be done and exact results found out soon. Yavuz isn't one to do things by half measures. NB: I have not been paid to say any of this. I thought I would share what is a fairy big transformation in my own car with some pretty neat and new parts. It's good to see that some companies are still out there flying the RB flag for us guys and developing innovating new parts for these engines. A big thankyou to Unigroup (Yavuz, Tyson and Mark), Ross from Ross Tuffbond for the trigger kit, Steveo for putting up with my rubbish all the time, Norm and Amy, Brett and Jack! Cheers guys!

Damn double post!

LOL!

That's a great idea Terry. Any chance I could grab a high res version off you at some stage?

Taken by Matt last week at the Legends dinner.

You set target boost via the duty cycle. The left hand field does nothing, you're only giving it a 'name' for quick reference.

4. You can only set the value, not the gain or different boost levels in different gears. It is basic but does the job.

I have so far made 420 rwkw with a standard R33 Series 3 airbox. There is nothing wrong with them.

Bump.