Piggaz

Them too!

They look familiar ?

Lol. i just pulled two out. One for the crank trigger and an aftermarket ignitor which isn't needed.

Not quite ready to kick in the guts yet but progress is progress.

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I suppose, at the very least, something can be taken away from these frankenfails. So having GTX 63 mm wheels jammed into a place that they don't belong netted a result that was lazier by far then the original 2510's and made no more power than a 2859 (-9) with its smaller front fan and much larger rear end. The 2510's in original form never seem to match the -9's. Bigger front, smaller rear. A 2510 has a 2530 compressor with a much smaller ass end yet doesn't make the power of a GT SS/-9. What's the bloody point? 2540's which are a 76.2 major/51.7 minor compressor side being driven by a typical "GT25" hotside has always been a nugget. Big front, small rear. GT RS's were a 71.1 major/51.2 minor driven by a GT 25 hotside. We all know they suck. Big front, small rear. Jamming these higher flowing "billet" compressors in with no fooks given to the turbine side seems rather strange. These GTX wheels are designed around a compressor cover which looks nothing like the compact "GTR style" that they get machined into. What do they flow in those housings? Who the hell would know, but there is a common trend that the GTX wheels in stock style housings NEVER perform as well as when they're left in they're original home! Take the 2530 which for a long time was considered the "holy grail" of low mounts. Maybe because the compressor is matched to the turbine. Air IN AND OUT! How can you expect an engine to perform with a cork up its ass and the mentality of "but the compressor map said so". Voodoo's results (sorry mate) are a perfect example of this. If this was the case then we would all be running around with promod 88 mm front wheels being driven by stock sized turbine wheels "for responds" A GTX 60 mm wheel in its natural habitat flows 42 ish lb/min flat stick (who knows what it does in the compact housings but it won't be 42). That's 6 more than a -5's but still has to get out the same hole. 63's and 67's make the issue worse. It's like trying to empty a bathtub with just the plug pulled but being filled up with a fire fighters hose. Until Garrett do something with the hotside, it's the same stupid shit HKS tried years ago. Too much looking at what the compressor can do without any consideration to how it gets out!!!!! I attatched this before but I'll attatch it again. Look at the front to rear combinations and think what combo's work. It ISNT big front/peanut rear's.

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OP, what's your thoughts? Has Voodoo's results made you rethink your plan?

ECU went in today. Getting close now!!!!

I didn't get any with my PFC that I had.... 10 years ago ?. Ripped off!!

Voodoo, out of curiosity, what did that whole exercise set you back? I wouldn't imagine it would have been cheap. It would be more than a bit disappointing for sure! Whats the plan now? Will you leave the twins on there for a while?

Some photos of the EGT's...

EGT's are in MAC valves wires up Sensor loom is in Started on fuel system Ross CAS is done Coils are wired Widebands are wired Injectors plugs have been changed over

Have a chat to Racepace about their revalved gear or Bilstien PSS9's. Don't be tempted by the BC junk (or the like) unless you don't like your kidneys or spine. Spending a little bit more here is worth it! Have a look at and consider replacing some of your bushes. At the end of the day it's a 20 year old car, the bushes are old and brittle. This is definitely something that is "gee, I didn't realise it was that bad" until you start changing them out. Rear subframe alloy collars is a good and cheap start.

On what fuel? On what engine? Run those turbo's on a diesel car, will you still get the same power?

Finally, some movement. A large chunk of the wiring side is done. With any luck, it should fire up Friday or early next week. Once fired it's just the tune to go!

Wouldn't it be healthier to run the 6466 with the current 1.00 rear? It's such a large snail, don't stick a cork up its ass and run the peanut 0.84. In AND out! Why is it "only" making 480 on 30 psi? Sounds kinda low given boost and turbo size. Possible issues/restrictions in the setup?

Look at the turbine wheel sizes. Bench marking turbo's on a horse power number is as useless as tits on a bull.

Having said that, GTR_JOEY ran 430 rwkw on a 2.6L using the NON C spec coppermix for years and never had an issue. Only 30 ish wkw difference between the above mentioned 3.0 and 3.2, torque difference is a lot more.

If you look up the turbine wheel size of a 2510, it's significantly smaller than a -9. Putting a compressor capable of flowing north of 40 lb/min (when in the original housing) being driven by a peanut rear isn't ideal for a goal of 350 kw. It screams mini 2540! Too much compressor, not enough hot side.

Dragging this back on topic, I think Dan (Lithium) is on the money here. A GTX 2860 flows just on what a pair of GT RS's do. Seeing that you goal is 600-650 whp, there is no need to go any larger than the 60 mm unit. Don't go putting the wheels where they don't belong (T25 housings). They never perform as well as GTX's in their original homes! GTR guys could learn something from the Gtst boys here ?. Yes it will mean playing with piping but if you're hell bent on staying twins, do it properly! Do yourself a favour though, put those stupid Tomei manifolds in the bin. They don't add anything over a set of tickled up stockers (I backed to back them years ago)... but won't crack! (I cracked two sets myself). 2863's and above need more turbine IMO. The side that no one ever seems to look at or consider. The compressor is only half the turbo. It has to get out too!

I think the 2.6/2.8 guys should be ok. I ran a coppermix for 10 years (35,000 kms), power ranging from 370 rwkw to 470rwkw/800 nm of twist. I pulled it out only after munching an OS gear set. The plates were just over half worn. It never slipped, never misbehaved and never refreshed or rebuilt. This was with OVER 350 big RPM launches under its belt. To replace it went an OS88 and an R3C. The driveability is on par to the coppermix. It's definitely NOT a lightswitch it's just the pickup point is lower compared to the high pickup of the coppermix. Apparently there was a design change with the OS R series of clutches at some point, not exactly sure when it was though. Some time before October 2014.

Intune and Nismo3.2ish both killed C spec coppermixes with the 8374. However, one is a 3.0 and the other is a 3.2. Pete's (the 3.2) nearly lasted a month. It's more the torque that kills clutches. You may be right behind a 2.6L.

What power are you shooting for with that setup?

What a nug ?