Piggaz

Although U have seen a mates car pump out overr 300 RWKW on stock injectors and fuel pump, I wouldnt encourage it. 700's would be more then enough. Dont go 800 CC Sards, our have to change the plugs for them! As said in previous post 600 or even 550's would be enough.... Im a man of overkill so hey!

If you guys are getting those results with a stock capacity, stock comp ratio 26 and t04Z... the im ripping off my twin RS's on a 9.0:1 comp RB 28 and throwing on one of those puppies. Thats insane! Dyno pages PLEASE!!!!

I agree with the above. All that effort just to put another set of turbo's on that has a ceramic wheel. A set of N1's would be a much better and safer option.

Another happy 300V user here. Although im using the 15W-50 competition oil.

^^^ I run my car all the time at 1.65/1.7 Bar everytime i drive it. Dont want to go flat out.... dont be so heavy with your right foot!

Have run up to 1.8 Bar on shells V power racing when it was available. Twin GT RS, Tomei stroker, 9.0:1 compression ratio. No problem.

What year was the bend put in at the end of conrod?

Would be nice to know the size of the pistons and the rod to stroke ratio of this thing! Must be pretty short rods!!!!!!

If it's any help im running 270 @ 10.25 on a 2.8 Twin GT - RS's motor.

Havent done that yet. I have got braided fuel lines and dont really want to take off the fittings. May have to. Could it be the fuel pump? Car hasnt been started in 7 weeks. Could it have shit itself due to lack of use?

Hey guys Im in a little bit of a pickle with my 33 GTR. Over the last few weeks I have replaced my stock plenum with a Nismo item, stock fuel rail with a sard duel feed rail, Nismo FPR with a Sard RJ FPR. Got it all finished yesterday BUT I cant get more then 0.5 Bar of fuel pressure. (I have a Fuel pressure gauge in the cabin). I cant see or smell any fuel leaks, I have played with the FPR, screwed the screw in all the way, out all the way and nothing changes. The car will start with some help with the throttle but will die as soon as i take my foot off it. I have double checked the lines from the filter and back to the pump are not crossed over. Any suggestions?

I might add my 2 cents. I own a 33 gtr. Drive it on the weekends. The lancer get's all other duties. Makes the drives in the GTR all that more enjoyable.

I know its not the answer to your question but i had just on 400 KW at the treads on a stock rail and Nismo regulator.

I have just changed my Apexi power FC unit to a blitz duel solenoid unit. Have yet to drive the car. I put the solenoid under the factory R33 GTR airbox, Nice and hidden

Im running Project MU single piece slotted rotors with Project Mu Titan Kai Front Pads and Project Mu HC+ Rear Pad's. No troubles pulling it up on the street with 400 KW at the treads at my disposal. Abit noisy though

The bleeder is located on the intake side of the head and from memory between cylinders 1 and 2. 10 mm spanner will do the trick.

1+ for waste of space. Absolutley no need for one. Take it easy for the last few kms. IF your hammering it until you turn the car off what about your gearbox, diff, engine oil and whatever else temps you have.

Im using it. Stock airbox. Just on 400 KW at the treads.

Nothing. The bastard has everything it needs. Greedy thing!!!!!

Any chance of a photo with them on your car? I also have a white 33. Just want to see how they look!

Mine fits fine. Andrew ill get back to you today at some stage with a number.

Hmm... Just on 400 KW at the treads Via a 77.7 mm crank... now you got me worried!!!!!

^^. I'm REALLY surprised why so many went the heavier shaft!

Nismo twin plate coppermix. I have the competition model which is rated a little higher with the Nismo Slave cylinder. I will NEVER change it for something else. It's behind a 400 rwkw 2.8 litre. Cant recommend it highly enough.

Mine has arrived. Not yet seen it.