Piggaz

Why a 2.7 over a 2.8? 🧐

Got caught out a decade ago with jap slinkies. HKS step 2’s floated at 5000 ish rpm with 20 ish psi behind them. It had about 43 psi on the seat which is less than factory 🙄🙄 Admittedly using a custom grind cam which was a lot more agro than the Japanese molehills that are on the market. Ripped them out and chucked in the firmest supertech single springs with Ti retainers and problem gone.

4 inch internal through. Big, shut the car up and flows. Big enough to fist 🤜

Kakimoto Full Mega N1 was a peanut. Removed that for an Aussie made twin 3 inch and it made more power with less pressure on smaller turbos. I’ve had a look at one of those tomei nuggets which was on an evo… same thing just a different brand. It’s garbage.

Why buy a Japanese exhaust only to use half of it? It’s not 2003. Get a custom one made and do it right. It’ll sit higher, fit better, be quieter with the correct mufflers used, flow better. You just won’t have the shopping list sticker to put on the front guard but I’m sure you could buy them separately. A jap exhaust makes NO sense.

I find that hard to believe. What is arguably the least stressful driving situation, you have issues with fluid getting hot. If that was the case, as soon as you started to make the transfer case work through a hill run or something similar, you’d have issues which is not a common issue.

I’ll leave this here

A stoned tortoise on its back would have more response than those tomei turds.

Now where are those graphs that hks publish? 🤣 not worth the pixels on your screen that junk.

Not worth $10. All that cash for a nugget. People have gone mad.

Compressor elbow mod.

This one? IMG_7204.MOV

Port match the stock manifolds. Do not waste your money on those Tomei things. I did a back to back years ago and it netted 0.000000 of 0 compared to tickled up stockers. First set cracked and the second set I blew a hole in the runner of number 1 after 1500 kms. The new ones are cast but I wouldn’t waste your money. I made 635 rwhp through a set of factory cast manifolds. The twin turbo pipe mod IS worth doing. It’s cheap and easy. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist that the angle that the front turbo is merging is retarded. When using larger twin butt plugs like GT RS/-10’s it goes a long way to reduce the infamous “choof choof” when coming onto boost. There is a cheeky mod that you can do to the compressor elbows. The factory casting has an indentation for the bolts. Fill that indentation in, grind it out and use a stud. I have posted photos of this on here. The factory piping setup really is garbage. Tight bends, small pipes, it’s all junk. 1 x vote for a medium single. On earlier, easier to work on, make more grunt, better under the foot. It’s ALL win. There is not one negative to it.

Of course the front housing needs to be modified. The wheel is different in size.

You have NO idea what shaft speed you’re at. I would bet you’re a lot higher than what you’re thinking. You’re making 560 kw on weed killer dinosaur soup. Guys here in Aus are hard going making 600 kw with e85 with a 9180. There is no problem here. I could be wrong but I’m going to outlay those cards. Report back with a speed sensor.

Spose it has to be application specific. Youre not going to run 140 lb springs on a basic setup that runs twins and will rev to 8000 rpm and you’re not going to run 50 lb things on an 8 second thing that spins to the moon with turbos the size of a small planet.

150 psi springs? Why?

Define ‘drive on’? Really, change of snails = a tune. The only driving one should do is to the tuner… using the best boost controller there is… your right foot!

Really, no one can tell you. You have to measure it up as there are too many unknowns and variables. - are there oversized valves? What size? - has the head been decked? If so, by how much? - has the block been decked? If so, by how much? - head gasket thickness? - rod to stroke ratio affects where the piston is the bore to the relation of the crank. - dome height of pistons - valve relief? How deep? So many variables the only way to know is to do it the hard way and measure it up. ANYTHING else is a guess at best. It is a expensive mistake if it’s ‘just’ off.

What are you hoping to achieve by going to a setup from 1912? what’s wrong with your setup at the moment? What are you trying to achieve by changing everything? Seems like a pretty backwards move with turbos with overgrown heavy wheels, journal nugget bearings and just general shitness.

It’s the same car.

If I dig deep enough I could find that post too… but that was circa 2009 man. 🤣.

GT - RS’s would have to be number 1, surely.