Piggaz

Run a pre larger filter of a 40 micron and a smaller post pump one of 10 or so?

Who in their right mind would pay that for a second hand cooler.

Both items are located in Georges Hall, Sydney. Postage will be paid for by buyer. Contact me via PM Both items came out of my R33 GTR Item: Link G4 Plug in. Price: $100 Condition: It doesn't work but it can be fixed. I did send it back to Link in NZ to be looked over. This is what they said; Hello, We recently received two faulty Link ECU's in for servicing from you guys. The ECU with the trigger fault (serial# 11277) had a bad solder joint causing the issue. This has been repaired and the ECU is under warranty so there is no cost to you. The other ECU (serial# 11869) with the burnt PCB has been deemed non-repairable and will need to be replaced. A number of vias have been destroyed due to the extent of the burning meaning a number of wire links would need to be run from the top to the bottom if it was to be repaired. This would also effect the long term reliability of the unit. A number of other components have also been damaged which have resulted in all of the ignition outputs failing. Due to the wide extent of the damage it is hard to tell what the cause was, generally with the amount of current that has gone through and the damage to the 14V circuit it would point to the power supply polarity having been reversed. Since there is also such considerable damage to the ignition circuit (particularly ignition #2) it would be worth double checking your ignition setup to ensure this is not what has caused the surge. I have had a chat with the head of my team about replacing the PCB at a discounted rate and we can offer 50% off a new board. This will cost $700 (we can reload the existing base map on it all ready to go) plus $24 for return postage of this ECU (we will absorb half the return postage cost to cover the warranty ECU). Please let me know if you would like to go ahead with the new topboard (invoice attached to this email for this option) and I will get it ready to go back to you. Item: Link 7 bar external MAP sensor Price: $150 Condition: Perfect. Used for approximately 5000 kms. Only removed as the new ECU had a big enough onboard sensor.

All parts are located in Padstow, Sydney. Shipping will be paid by the buyer. Contact me via PM. Item: -5 turbo's with modified actuators by Racepace Motorsport. Currently set at 19 psi. Turbine housings have been opened up to match the gasket. Comes with oil drains also. Price: $1200 Condition: Great. 10,000 kms worth of use. Item: -5 turbo's. Both are blown so will suit a GTX upgrade. Price: $500 Condition: Dead. Needs rebuild. Item: Front pipe to suit RB30/26. Twin 3 inch into single 4 inch Price: $300 Condition: Fine Item: SMB rear muffler "diff back". Single 4 inch into twin 3 inch tips. Price: $350 Condition: Fine. Item: Modified Twin Turbo Pipe Price: $150 Condition: Fine. It has had the "twin turbo" raised bit ground down. It came off an RB30. Item: HKS AFM delete pipes Price: $200 Condition: Fine. Painted black. A few scratches. Item: Modified intake pipes. This has had the narrow point removed. Price: $100 Condition: Fine. Item: HPI RB26 dump pipes (32/33) Price: $500 Condition: Fine

My fronts. 6 pot, 365 front, 4 pot 350 rear.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-1#entry7683493 Knock yourself out.

Quaife for the front. Sell your daughter for that shit!

The 71.1 mm RS wheel is rated at 44 lb/min each.The 63 mm GTX wheel is rated at pretty much the same. Gtx wheel is lighter, still has to get out of that peanut, small ass end. Cold side too big, hot side too small. Go back through the gtx thread and Simon Haughton who did this exact combo regretted it because of heat issues. A shiney billet wheel on the cold side doesn't fix the nugget rear ass end. Can get in, can't get out, why bring more air in. It's farken stupid. Trying to empty a bath with the plug pulled...but have a fire hose filling it up!

Put an EFR 8374 on it. You'll win!

You have just failed at GTR ownership! Front difffff. Buy it, install it, love it and kick yourself why you didn't do it 6 years ago!

Going from 63's to 67's. Having RS's and (I admit) it wasn't the optimal setup, they were woeful. However, I haven't come across someone that went from RS's back to the "lesser" -5's or 2530's and wasn't happier with them, regardless of engine size! They're mismatched. Cubes hides the shitness of these things! You DO NOT WANT these on a 2.6. 2.8 they still suck, 3.0 just hides the shitness of them. No need to consider Jurassic park turbos in today's age.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349467-5s-vs-rss-on-a-larger-then-stock-motor/?fromsearch=1 This thread may be of some interest.

Put them in the bin. They suck. Direct back to back between -5's and RS's on a well sorted 2.8.

Can't just buy new ones from GCG. They ain't that expensive. Bugger buying second hand snails, especially if you have to pay for the labour!

FFS Johnny. If you can't drive a skyline without a clutch because you can't "wait" for the speeds to match, sell the car. That goes for up and down gears. Learn to rev match, learn to preload gears. It ain't rocket science. Lol.

Nice work with the 6258's and front diff!! Not sure how long that stock gearbox is going to last behind the donk with 6258's hanging off the side of it.

You can drive the lancer without a clutch. Only time you need it is taking off from lights.

Are you making you're own manifold, Mike?

Is that journal or ball bearing?^^

I think Ben was talking about this. Something looks out of place here

On the strut tower you reckon, lol.

You don't need a tacho. Don't use the clutch at all. It isn't that hard.

Check the other thread you just made in the rb30 section.

It will say "05U" for an RB26 head above number 1 exhaust port. Zoom in.

Well done, Marcus! That's amazing!!!